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ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
When I did my motor swap I needed to use a different intake manifold so the TV bracket isn't an exact fit so I want to get the correct one and the cable plastic retaining clip they used or re-used when I had the tranny rebuilt isn't a good fit. The end of the cable to the carb. can slip out of the plastic grove and give a little slack. I have adjusted it but it's not as tight as a piano wire but close as long as the end of the cable doesn't slip out of the plastic grove. I put a couple of tie-raps around the cable and plastic retainer but that's not the way it should be and my tranny when in first trying to get up to speed on the freeway on ramp isn't CATCHING SO THE MOTOR REVS UP ON HIGH ACCELERATION AND I HAVE TO GET OFF THE GAS TO LET IT CATCH 2ND GEAR THEN I'M FINE. FOR CITY DRIVING I'M SHIFTING FINE. THE TRANNY WAS REBUILT ABOUT SIX YEARS AGO WITH NO HARD DRIVING ON IT SO FAR.:poke: SO IS THIS SOMETHING I CAN DO BY MYSELF?

Remember I'm a rookie.!!!!!!!!!
THANKS
ROBERT.
 

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Deputy Director Region 18 Participating Member
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..I know that you need to drop the trans pan to disconect the cable,so,you'll need tranny fluid. once you've got it disconncet fom down below,every thing else should pull right on out,look for brackets that holds the TV cable and remove them.:beer:
 

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Robert, you should have slack in the cable when sitting at idle. It should only be tight when at full throttle. On a 200-4r, to replace it you don't have to remove the pan. It is held in with 1 10mm bolt. When you take it out, there is a hook on the end of the cable that "hooks" onto a small lever in the trans. That lever is spring loaded, so try not to let it fall back into the trans. Get that hooked up to your new cable, and then re-install the bolt. You can check it by pulling on the end of the cable by the carb. You should feel a slight resistance at full pull, and it should feel like a small spring is trying to pull the cable back. If you don't feel this resistance, it is not hooked at the trans. To set it, slide the adjuster back in it's holder so that the cable is sorta tight, then step on the accelerator in the cab hard to WOT. You should hear a click as the cable is pulled through the adjuster, and you're set.
 

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Deputy Director Region 18 Participating Member
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. On a 200-4r, to replace it you don't have to remove the pan. It is held in with 1 10mm bolt. When you take it out, there is a hook on the end of the cable that "hooks" onto a small lever in the trans. That lever is spring loaded, so try not to let it fall back into the trans. Get that hooked up to your new cable, and then re-install the bolt. You can check it by pulling on the end of the cable by the carb. You should feel a slight resistance at full pull, and it should feel like a small spring is trying to pull the cable back. If you don't feel this resistance, it is not hooked at the trans. To set it, slide the adjuster back in it's holder so that the cable is sorta tight, then step on the accelerator in the cab hard to WOT. You should hear a click as the cable is pulled through the adjuster, and you're set.
..good to know,Sorry Robert I missinform you, I'll stick to my Generation..:dontknow:
:beer:
 

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Deputy Director Region 3 NJ Participating Member
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Darby is correct.......you can do it that way and I have used a pair of needle nose pliers to hold the rod coming up out of the trans while I disconnect the old cable and re-connect the new one.

If the rod gets away from you, try using a small piece of 12ga copper wire with a hook on the end dipping it down into the small hole the cable bolts into. If careful, you can snag the end of the rod.

I have gotten lucky and snaged the rod saving me from having to drop the pan.

GOOD LUCK! :hail2:
 

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ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Robert, you should have slack in the cable when sitting at idle. It should only be tight when at full throttle. On a 200-4r, to replace it you don't have to remove the pan. It is held in with 1 10mm bolt. When you take it out, there is a hook on the end of the cable that "hooks" onto a small lever in the trans. That lever is spring loaded, so try not to let it fall back into the trans. Get that hooked up to your new cable, and then re-install the bolt. You can check it by pulling on the end of the cable by the carb. You should feel a slight resistance at full pull, and it should feel like a small spring is trying to pull the cable back. If you don't feel this resistance, it is not hooked at the trans. To set it, slide the adjuster back in it's holder so that the cable is sorta tight, then step on the accelerator in the cab hard to WOT. You should hear a click as the cable is pulled through the adjuster, and you're set.
O.K I did adjust it so I'm fine then. I saw a thread some where it said it should be like a piano wire. Mine has min. to no slack.:nanawrench:

So I have a trans. problem . When I pulled the pan there were plastic slivers and tranny mike said it could be fixed without a rebuild most likely. That must be why it's not hooking up at fast acceleration in first to second unless I let up on the gas first..?
 

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ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
..good to know,Sorry Robert I missinform you, I'll stick to my Generation..:dontknow:
:beer:
Your good we all learn day by day. If everybody was right this forum would be boring .:poke:
 

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O.K I did adjust it so I'm fine then. I saw a thread some where it said it should be like a piano wire. Mine has min. to no slack.:nanawrench:

So I have a trans. problem . When I pulled the pan there were plastic slivers and tranny mike said it could be fixed without a rebuild most likely. That must be why it's not hooking up at fast acceleration in first to second unless I let up on the gas first..?
I'm assuming you mean no slack at Full Throttle. It should have slack sitting at idle.

Not shifting at WOT could be the TV cable adjustment, or it could be a spring has come off the governor. Easy fix is the TV cable. Spring on the Governor means the pan has to come off.

Hopefully Tranny Mike will jump in- this is getting beyond my level of experience.
 

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ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm assuming you mean no slack at Full Throttle. It should have slack sitting at idle.

Not shifting at WOT could be the TV cable adjustment, or it could be a spring has come off the governor. Easy fix is the TV cable. Spring on the Governor means the pan has to come off.

Hopefully Tranny Mike will jump in- this is getting beyond my level of experience.

I put it to full throttle then snapped it back together all at the same time. It has a little but it doesn't sag. I will take a video later. It's probably the bracket and it's tighter than normal.
Thanks
'Robert
 

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ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The TV cable should be at it's limit, along with the throttle arm......in other words, both should be at the end of their travel, or movement, at the same time etc...that's the way the self adjuster works too.

That's how I did it but the bracket off the 305 isn't the correct fit. It works fine but it may through the cable length one way or the other a bit so with the correct one if there's a problem with the tranny at least I know it can't have anything to do with it and move on to the next option. I just got the TPS set correct at.50v so the computer doesn't think the throttle is open 1/4 before pushing on the gas. I'm going to check the timing then take it for a drive and see if I pull any codes the come back to this issue if needed.:beer:
Thanks
Robert
 

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ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
"Is it to change the TV cable?" Just call Comcast...:poke:
Their not in my area they keep shooting up the line so their afraid to enter into my hood. You don't need cable I have regular T.V with an antenna and get 146 channels. When they went digital they added lots of new channels.Here in L.A. I get 5 different channel 5's some have 8-different of the same channel 5-1 / 5-2 / 5-3 / 8-1 / 8-2 and on and on and I don't pay directly to anybody for T.V. but they get you of course..
 
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