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I have a rally cap that makes noise when I hit a bump on the road it's maybe missing a clip not sure yet but i don't want to replace it since the emblems are chevy logo sliver and I can find them anywhere? as you can see on my avi. anybody have this small issue before?
 

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This issue has been a problem for years with me. Southwest low humidity and high heat really weakens plastic. Three broke last two years; last one by annual state safety inspection (registered in NY driven back and forth to AZ). Buying new every now and then from Mike's Montes. Have an idea to create a snap ring to attach to rally wheel clips and have gripper fingers that hold the plastic center cap, but haven't perfected the device yet because of priorities and can still buy new. Maybe someone with more time could perfect an attachment device. If I get my idea built, I will let the community know.
 

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I wouldn't drive to long with a rattler. A bridge expansion joint bump in Missouri knocked off one loose cap with only four of the five plastic tabs holding. Looks like you could dremel or drill out the plastic attachment points on back of cap and preserve the unique silver center piece to attach to a new cap. I could try it on my experimental broken caps, but my technique may be different than yours and not guarantee repeatable success.
 

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:geek: If you are talking about the whole
cap being loose.. Forget my Gorilla
glue comment. I thought you were talking
about the insert emblem inside cap..:rolleyes:
 

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If you are concerned about losing the emblem, I would remove the entire cap ASAP. As Youngstorm suggests, remove the emblem and chromed centerpiece. I think you would have much more surface area to glue that centerpiece to a donor cap. And make sure the glued cap is secure before reinstalling on your wheel.

I never use a cap that does't have all five tabs. GMC emblems are very difficult to find and I lost an original one with a cap missing just one tab.

Something I have noticed is the tabs on the repro caps seem thinner than those on original caps and thus are easier to break. I don't recall who it was, but someone on the forum suggested aligning the lug nuts so that the flat sides were parallel to the tabs. When I do remove a cap I try to pry it off gently and straight off to avoid putting any excess stress on the tabs.
 

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What I've done before was remove one of the fake lug nuts and open up the hole. Then install a real chrome lug nut in that position. Just remember its there when you remove the cap the next time or you'll break it trying to pry it off!
 
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