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ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter #1
O.K. I have I.D. my trans. where it's been leaking from and there's three spots. Two of them my already be fixed but the third looks like it could be a nasty job.

This one the screw in the picture has a washer that could have been keeping the pan from sealing? But it's gone and the pan it tightened up.





This one the bolt was loose so I tightened it up and should be good to go I hope.




Now here's the nasty one it's leaking from the shifter shaft into the block. I didn't try to tighten the bolt holding the rod on because I was alone and didn't know what could happen if it shifted and the truck came off the stands. I'm a little smarter than that(ask first) So what needs to be done hear? Can I do it myself or is this a good time for a rebuild job? I like the do it myself plan first.:poke: Also does it look like a little to much gasket sealant?
Thanks
Robert





 

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Deputy Director Region 6
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There is a seal around the gear select rod that goes in the tranny ! You shift linkage hooks to it ! I just replaced mine ! It does take a special tool to remove & install !
You didn't say what tranny you have ! Mine is the th350c


 

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TrannyMike
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2,807 Posts
Robert,
You've also got that washer that's coming apart in your trans. That will go out eventually. If you have another car you can drive, you could rebuild it yourself. The reason I put it that way is that this would be a project that may take you a couple of weeks. At my shop it's a 2 day job, but for someone that's never done it and has to figure out how some procedures can be done without the expensive specialty tools, that's not a quicky job. In my area this is about a 1500-1700 dollar job, but it's more expensive in the SF/Bay Area than most places. :beer:
 

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ZERO MPG
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15,368 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Robert,
You've also got that washer that's coming apart in your trans. That will go out eventually. If you have another car you can drive, you could rebuild it yourself. The reason I put it that way is that this would be a project that may take you a couple of weeks. At my shop it's a 2 day job, but for someone that's never done it and has to figure out how some procedures can be done without the expensive specialty tools, that's not a quicky job. In my area this is about a 1500-1700 dollar job, but it's more expensive in the SF/Bay Area than most places. :beer:

Are you serious that much for a rebuild? Do they still offer them new? That's more than the motor. If I'm going to do that might as well go all the way and get posi. at the same time so the hurt is all at once. Now I see why I was told to drive it till it dies:poke: This is on the way and is going to hit the pocket getting these ceramic coated and piped to the ends of the headers. They are only $180.00 shipped but the bottom line I'm probably look'n when finished $700.00 I'm think'n. I'm going to through all my receipts away I never want to know how much is in this truck people think I'm crazy but I don't care it's my money and my life project now. Sure glad I'm not looking for a woman I couldn't afford her.




 

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TrannyMike
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Transmission pricing has very little to do with how old a car is or the value of a car. It's related mostly to how long it takes to do the job right. The parts are usually only 1/4 to 1/3 of the price and the rest is labor. On a 2004R the upgrades all need to be done. There are quite a few things on that trans. 2004R's are a little time consuming compared to other tranny's of the era. New transmissions only come in new cars. Anything else is re-manufactured, even by the factory(GM). It's not like new GM motors. :beer:
 
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Whoa! That's pretty steep for a rebuild. Maybe its because things are higher in Cali. My buddy built mine up to handle 700hp but I hooked him up with some other stuff. It would have cost me 1200 including install.
As for your headers,mine were 250 to ceramic coat with a 1 year warranty. They've been on since 2010 and haven't changed a bit.
Looks like the silicone can be squeezed a bit more to seal it up.
 

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TrannyMike
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Whoa! That's pretty steep for a rebuild. Maybe its because things are higher in Cali. My buddy built mine up to handle 700hp but I hooked him up with some other stuff. It would have cost me 1200 including install.
As for your headers,mine were 250 to ceramic coat with a 1 year warranty. They've been on since 2010 and haven't changed a bit.
Looks like the silicone can be squeezed a bit more to seal it up.
Everything is cheaper in TX. I know from buying houses in Texas. A $220,000 house in Austin would be $600-$700,000 in San Jose if everything is the same. You can't compare prices from one state to another. I pay a builder $30hr. I bet in Texas a builder makes $20hr. It's all relative to the local economy. :beer:
 

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ZERO MPG
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15,368 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
There is a seal around the gear select rod that goes in the tranny ! You shift linkage hooks to it ! I just replaced mine ! It does take a special tool to remove & install !
You didn't say what tranny you have ! Mine is the th350c

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/GM-TRANSMISS...==/$(KGrHqFHJCcE-ffTjhSNBPu41+fD8!~~60_12.JPG
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/SELECTOR-SHA...Aw/$T2eC16VHJGYE9nooiL8dBQH)kLyisQ~~60_57.JPG

TH2004R I think I'm going to replace it first the trans. is working fine for now then go from there. $1600.00 is a lot of money to rebuild it. I could go out and get a small used car then start a complete restore on the Elco and drive it to shows or a weekend drive. Working two blocks from home is a plus and now the temp. is going down it's time to ride the bike. What do you call that tool so I can find one?

All the money goes to labor the rebuild kit doesn't cost much but then you need the correct. here's no way I would attempt to rebuild mine. When I took the pan off and was putting the new filter I was looking at it and it looks way out of my league.
Thanks
Robert
 

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ZERO MPG
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15,368 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Well, you COULD find a good used transmission and put that in. And several people sell performance transmissions.
Runs fine now run it till it dies spend the money on the front end first? two blocks from work and 100mi tow with AAA can't lose?:poke:
 

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Everything is cheaper in TX. I know from buying houses in Texas. A $220,000 house in Austin would be $600-$700,000 in San Jose if everything is the same. You can't compare prices from one state to another. I pay a builder $30hr. I bet in Texas a builder makes $20hr. It's all relative to the local economy. :beer:
And a $220,000 house in Austin would be $110,000 in Cedar Hill. I have a friend who sold his 2 br 1 bath house in Oceanside for enough to buy a 4 br 2 ba house with a pool and 10 acres in Crockett, TX, with enough left over to retire on.

I need to find someone who needs a transmission intern, so I can learn how to rebuild them.

I'm thinking the silicon on those gaskets may be the problem, not the solution.
 

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I SF with all of the hiills trannies are high they are high just like windshields in Alaska thats because the rode to alaska is all packed gravel regular paving will not stand up to cold climate so when you start to get outside of fairbanks or any other city you start seeing billboards for windshields because of gravel chips and cracks. A budy of mine that had been on a fishing boat tried to get me to rent a semi and trailer go to salvages and buy up glass sell it when we got there sounded great until after that go out to sea on one of those fishing boats that stay out for 6 months. They have living quarters you share. 12hrs on 12hrs off three month fishing three months canning on board ship. Thats when I said hell no I'm to damn skinny for that.
 

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Not sure if this has anything to do with your pan leak but be careful not to tighten the bolts too tight. The pan will bulge around the holes for the bolts and can have problems sealing after that because the gasket surface will no longer be flat. Good luck with the other issues with it. Hopefully you can get it straightened out without throwing too much $$ into it.
 

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ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter #14
Not sure if this has anything to do with your pan leak but be careful not to tighten the bolts too tight. The pan will bulge around the holes for the bolts and can have problems sealing after that because the gasket surface will no longer be flat. Good luck with the other issues with it. Hopefully you can get it straightened out without throwing too much $$ into it.

Thanks for telling me now:poke:I'm leaking more than when I started.:poke: I know where it's leaking and will put a new gasket I already have but it's coming from the shifter and the line on the passenger side going into the trans. also. I tightened that bolt and it's leaking more than before also.:let_it_all_out:
 

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Yeah sorry haha. If you did bulge the pan around the holes you can bang them straight, or no better time to buy an aluminum one ;). Can't help you on the linkage seal as I've never had to do one yet (knock on wood).
 

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ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah sorry haha. If you did bulge the pan around the holes you can bang them straight, or no better time to buy an aluminum one ;). Can't help you on the linkage seal as I've never had to do one yet (knock on wood).
I don't think I tightened them that tight or seen if that's where it's leaking the most. I'm on exhaust manifold gasket now with both fender wells out so it's complete inspection day today
 

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Yeah sorry haha. If you did bulge the pan around the holes you can bang them straight, or no better time to buy an aluminum one ;). Can't help you on the linkage seal as I've never had to do one yet (knock on wood).
I mentioned earlier that I put a deep cast aluminum pan on my TH350 in my T and solved a leak problem I'd chased for years. Very stiff rail, no bending.
 

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I mentioned earlier that I put a deep cast aluminum pan on my TH350 in my T and solved a leak problem I'd chased for years. Very stiff rail, no bending.

X2 on that ... plus better cooling and drain plug in case of "El Camino owning"
 
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