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Discussion Starter #1
78 Caballero -- 350v8 -- stock
Have been driving as daily use car. No issues. Stopped at the house, ran inside for about 5 minutes, came back out and turned the ignition switch --- nothing. No click. No starer solenoid engagement. None of the gauges move. Nothing that requires ignition switch on engages. Lights work fine. Battery fully charged.

Ignition system fusible link? Where is it? How do I check it?

Fuse or circuit breaker? Where is it?

Ignition switch? How do I check it and confirm? Any step by step diagram somewhere? I have a service manual, but did not see much detail on the ignition switch.

Other?
 

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Corroded battery terminals,, have it happen to me once,,, remove the lugs and pry them out and clean the contact area,,, use baking soda and rinse,,,, try that first,,,, Matty man
 

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Could be the battery . Might have 12 volts but no amperage. If the stater is stuck, turn the lights on them try and start it, if the lights dim starter may be stuck.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Will check it out...

Thanks for the ideas and locations of fusible links. We should get some time to check some of these out over the next couple of days. We'll let y'all know how it checks out. If we strike out and need more advice we'll holler.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Have some time today to look this over. Rounded up the muscle to push it into the driveway, but just for grins tried the ignition...and it started on the first click.

The battery is only a few months old. No sign of any corrosion on the posts.

Once a fusible link goes it's gone isn't it?

Other possible loose connection somewhere we should check? Is there a separate ground for the ignition that would make it dead, but the lights still work? It was a wet rainy day when it wouldn't start. Anything specific that would disable the ignition if it was wet?

A couple suggestions that the starter was stuck. I had previously ruled this out -- didn't hear solenoid engage, and all the gauges and other ignition activated electrical were dead. If stuck starter, then these should have still activated with the ignition in only the 'on' position.

Any additional thoughts? Hard to fix what now doesn't appear to be broken. But, would hate to be out somewhere remote and this happen again.
 

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I am going with the battery. I would take it to local auto parts and have tested. I have 2 week old batteries go out on me.
 

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Good news is you just ruled-out a fuse able link.
Once they go, they're gone.
Bad news is you still have a loose or corroded connection somewhere.
Did you check the Battery connections? Sometimes they "look" good but need to be cleaned, especially side post connections.
Double check all wiring connections, even grounds can become corroded.
 

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Sounds like heat soak to me, two clues to that
1> it wouldn't start after driving it.
2> No sound or click from solenoid.

Loose connections are also possible as pointed out above.
Look for loose connections at the starter - also look at the condition of the wiring, is it hard and brittle? this is an indication that the wires get excessively hot.

Heat in wiring increases the resistance of the wire sometimes to the point where insufficient voltage gets to the starter.

Options are replace the solenoid with a new unit, this may only be a temporary solution as the heat isn't changing. If the wires are hard and brittle - replace them and then wrap the wiring with a heat resistant blanket of some sort. Similarly a heavy duty solenoid and a wrap or shield around the starter might help
 

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I ain't an electrical guy by any stretch of the imagination but your problem sounds similar to what my 90 Ford Crown Vic PI experienced. I eventually traced it down to TWO problems with the help of a chevy-loving electrical buddy (not Keyser).

starter (20 yr old original) passed testing in the stand at auto-parts store, yet I would get no more than what you would describe (would not turn over, just a solenoid click). remember that Fords have a relay mounted to the fender on that car. I replaced the relay, it worked a week, then no more.

answer?... apparently the starter kept pulling LOTS of voltage which burned out said relay, even though starter passed test. took the starter to different auto-parts stores (AZone, PepB, Advance, O'Reilly; all with 1 mile of each other) hoping for different results...KIND-OF got them. turns out most of these stores use the same machine to test so results were almost identical. finally got it to fail at one store on one machine, would not pass. back to other store back towards home, passed again. ..... effit, buy replacement starter thru RockAuto, install, replace burned out relay......VROOOOOM!

http://type2.com/bartnik/starter.htm

http://www.novaresource.org/starter.htm
 

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Here is the old fuse-able link in my elky down by the starter. You can obviously see the plastic is melted away from the wire. This was up in the heat shield tube arching and sometimes grounding out the ignition so the motor wouldn't turn over.
 

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Lotta good checks recommended here.Mine behaved similarly,wouldn't restart when hot.Particularly on a hot day.No action at all.All good when cold.The starter and solenoid were getting heat soaked,tucked up under the exhaust manifold like they are.I wired in a Ford remote starter solenoid (instructions are somewhere on this site) feeding the Chevy one.Mounted it on the inner fender well,near the battery.No trouble since.

Also have run across bad ignition switches.The previous POs had hung every key they own plus 10lbs of trinkets on their key chain.That will loosen up an ignition switch over the years.
 
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