That's a mixed bag of opinions. For some, the rag joint does involve dampening road vibrations so is good for lower performance cruisers etc, but on the other hand the jeep u-joints do offer more responsiveness and better feel for the road.
Either way, if the boot is that trashed, the rag joint isn't that far behind it. There's 3 options, really. Replace just the rag, which is a pain and involves grinding, heat and air-tools, or replace the entire shaft with a new rag setup, or replace it with the jeep upgrade (new or used). Just 2 nuts, one on each end, and a prybar will generally get 'er done.
My upgrade was a new jeep shaft, but the idiots had spot-stamped it solid in 2 places, so that involved drilling out the stamps so it would compress. No big deal, really.
Mike's Montes has a complete new OEM intermiate shaft, thinking that the way to go for me... havent noticed any slop or bounce, steering box is new, installed in March.
I've seen multiple videos on installing the Jeep shaft, having to grind the upper u-joint off to flip it 180° and then welding it back on... couldn't you just pull the steering wheel and turn it 180° , save all that BS?
No, can't just pull the steering wheel. By far it's easier to just apply a little heat at the center where the intermediate shafts collapse, pull them apart, flip and put back together. The only grinding necessary is a very small notch on the steering column shaft, and thats only to allow the bolt to slide through. The fact that the bolt is now sitting in a notch and prevents even a loose connection from sliding off is just a bonus. Took me @ 3 minutes with a rat-tail file. The notch only needs be @ 1-1.5 mm deep.
Grinding the u-joints off is really doing things the hard way and totally unnecessary.