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Discussion Starter #1
Hello brake experts, need some help. Monday I started putting brake fluid in my restoration. One of the things I did during assembly was buy a Stainless Flex Hose set f/ Inline Tube (ch1010 69-72 gm a-body) with this kit you get three hoses that replace the factory rubber hoses. one at each caliper and one at junction above rear end. I have a leak at every spot the factory line connects w/ the inline tube fitting, three leaks, above rear end and above both calipers. I do not dare tighten them anymore as I fear something will give. Every male factory fitting is leaking where it connects to stainless hardware. any ideas? Oh yeah I DID NOT use any teflon tape anywhere. and so it continues-
thanks Tony
 

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I would say you should look at the flares on the new lines. If you have lines that leak, most likely it is a bad flare on the tubing. The flared end mates with the surface on the block and once tightened down properly the two surfaces make the seal. If they are not matching up well, you will never get them to stop leaking.
 

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Leaking Brake Lines

Hello Tony:

First, do you have a descent flare nut wrench set. If you don't I would spend the $35 or so and buy a set. You can apply much more torque with a proper set. Second, assuming you are using flare nut wrenches, I would repeatedly loosen and tighten the fittings, each time you tighten apply just a little for pressure in an attempt "form the flares" to better conform with each other. Forget the teflon tape idea. The lines are designed to seal at the flare not the threads. Applying teflon tape is just asking for trouble somewhere down the line when you can least afford it. I'm curious, did you replace the brake lines? If not, were they weeping fluid at the old fittings before you began your restoration?

Good luck.

Bruce
 

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I may have missed something in your explanation, is the leak at the flares or where the hoses thread into the calipers / & brass T connector above the rear axle, if it is not at the flares have you installed the copper washers between the hoses and calipers/ & brass T ?

My 2 cents,Mike
 

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Without a good set of flare nut wrenches you're just pe8ing against the wind ! All you'll end up doing is ruining the flare nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Leaks

First of all thanks for input. I do have a great set of flared wrenches and have never done this work w/o them. No never thought of using teflon. fittings are suppose to seal themselves that's how they are designed.
The leaks are at each new stainless fitting where the factory fitting from hardline fits into it. The fluid is coming up the threads of fitting. In front they are above junction where spring clip holds line to frame to allow hard line to connect in downward angle. The rearend is same at junction where hardline connects to new line. My old factory fittings never leaked.
like I said its wierd that every leak is where old meets new. I spoke to Inlines tech person last night and on there web site they show pictures of how bottom of there connection should look if tighten properly. I just keep having this idea that their fitting is too deep. meaning the factory flare cannot properly mate w/bottom of fitting.
This morning I have to disconnect master and put bleeder fittings in so I do not loose all the brake fluid then take apart each fitting and. examine bottom of fitting for cracks and to take measurements of depth of new fitting vs. length of old to make sure they can mate. I thought a month ago I would be done w/ assembly mode and all this little crap keeps poppin it's ugly head. I even had to send Hurst shifter out to be rebuilt and got it back yesterday,like new. I am gonna take pictures this am and will post later w/findings.
Thanks again Guys, Tony
 

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Stainless lines are stiff but as suggested above - keep loosening and re-tightening and you will get them to stop leaking. Tighten until you think the flare wrench is going to round the nut each time.
 

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I may be wrong but I think someone a few weeks ago was talking about the flare angle was different on some of the brake flares ?? Am I hearing things in my old age ?:sad::sad:Are your lines and connections double flared as they should be ?
 

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not only am I thinking flare angles like Wayne_Parrish, I'm wondering if the thread-size diameter is just a little smaller. how hard was it to thread those flare nuts on, Urleycay? did they spin right on?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Leaks

well I took all the fittings apart. When I started restoring elky I had original brakes lines powder coated because they were in such great shape. Of course the only thing not coated is the threads on the lines. when I put new stainless lines on I did not pay attention to threads on factory fittings. When I took them apart yesterday the first thing I seen was that there were no cracks but something was sitting in groove where flare sat- RUST- That's right the big dummy did not check fittings and they had enough surface rust on them to make a differance. THEY ALL HAD IT! so I cleaned them all, blew out lines and put them back together. Inline Tubing said the same thing "thighten and loosen about four times" so I cleaned all fittings with wire brush and reinstalled everything and reconnected master. Its been about 36 hours and NOT A DROP and NO SEEPAGE. Tomorrow I'll pump them up for last bleed after I go around and tighten again. I have to slow down as I am more than ready to be done w/ this and fire her up.
I want to thanks all you guys your all right on the money w/ answers and suggestions. I hope that when I am done and driving I can pay back for all the help and experiance I have had.
Thanks again and Happy Easter.
Tony
 

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I have found that you can tighten them too much and they leak. Try backing off a tad until the leak stops. ITs best to have someone press on brake pedal while you loosen/tighten till you find that "sweet" spot.

Good luck and I know the grief...

Robert Jordan
Winnsboro Texas
 
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