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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy folks.

The passenger window in my car has been leaking water in for a few years. My carpet on that side had a pretty nice collection of species of moss growing on it. So I cut out the carpet and padding yesterday to address any rust.

I'm going to cure the rust and coat the floorboard in bedliner. Eastwood Rust Converter and Rustoleum Bed Liner, both in spray cans. I think this should sufficiently protect the floor from further damage during rainy weather, as well as provide a suitably grippy floor material.

The bits of rust are spotty and scattered across the area, with fair size bits of unmolested floorboard between them. I've read that Eastwood Rust Converter does not stick very good to painted, clean, or otherwise non-rusty metal.

Should I tape off the rust areas and spray the bedliner first? Should I spot-spray the rust first, then use acetone to wipe down the areas that didn't stick?

I'm leaning towards the later, so that the seal formed by the bedliner is not broken by any bits of tape that get stuck in it.

Maybe the Eastwood guy will chime in here!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
OK but what about the leak?
Good question! (and good topic for another thread LOL but ...) Basically the leak is from bad upper seal at the passenger window. The from what I've read, the available replacements don't fit very well and are a pretty penny. I'll be attempting to address this leak later by forming a new seal from expanding foam.
 

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Had that problem on my 73 caddy coupe. I found that different manufacturers parts have different fit.
Would be a good topic for a new thread. I'm sure someone here knows which brand has the best fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Here's some pics of the rust damage. Seems surprisingly light, considering that the carpet padding probably stayed moist year round for 2-3yr. :texas:



Full view.



Body mount?



Left side.



Tailward side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Take a look at POR-15 product for rust cure... have used this for years on several rust problems. Once this stuff cures it will take a grinder to make a dent in it....
Thanks for the suggestion jpm, but I've already decided that I want to use a rust converter product(though not necessarily Eastwood's) instead of a rust encapsulation product. My logic to this is that I want to keep as much viable metal on the car as possible. Rust converters chemically transform iron oxide into iron phosphate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've read that Eastwood Rust Converter does not stick very good to painted, clean, or otherwise non-rusty metal.

Should I tape off the rust areas and spray the bedliner first? Should I spot-spray the rust first, then use acetone to wipe down the areas that didn't stick?

Sometimes the best solution is the most simple. And usually the most simple is staring you in the face the whole darn time lol. :beer:

I think an easy solution to rust converter getting on non-rusty metal is to get a quart in liquid form instead of spray can. Paint brushing the liquid form into rusty areas should give alot more control than the spray.
 

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Those floors look 1000000 percent better than mine did! I had carpet hanging under the car.

You might also try a quart of Ospho it makes cool bubbles and foam, smells horrible.

I also used a $7 jar of Rustoleum from Wal mart - so far so good.
 

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Thanks for the suggestion jpm, but I've already decided that I want to use a rust converter product(though not necessarily Eastwood's) instead of a rust encapsulation product. My logic to this is that I want to keep as much viable metal on the car as possible. Rust converters chemically transform iron oxide into iron phosphate.
IMO, a rust converter product is not designed to be a permanent coating, just a rust retarder. Eastwood recommends you follow it with their Encapsulator. If you want to stop the rust for good, you need another product. Like others, I've had great success with both POR-15 and Eastwood's Encapsulator virtually everywhere on a vehicle, such as battery trays, frame rails, suspension parts, floorpans, wheelhouses. Both adhere well to clean metal as well as prepped rusty areas. Based on your pics, your corrosion doesn't look bad. Personally, I'd prep the floor well with a powered wire brush, coat it with either POR or RE and rest assured it will be fine for a long, long time.

Bill
 
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