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Discussion Starter #1
Currently on my 94' LT1 (caprice) install i do have the matching radiator with the coolant resivoir tank. i just got an all aluminum one from a 93' LT1 which has the radiator cap in the radiator. I'm pretty much good to go but just wanted to confirm, because my service manual is on a 94.

LEFT SIDE(DRIVER SIDE)
upper and lower plug holes are for the EOC
lower is the drain...gonna change that drain **** out for something better...any suggestions?

RIGHT SIDE(PASS SIDE)

TOP... FOR CAP
NEXT DOWN(ON CAP)..FOR OVER FLOW
THE PLASTIC CAPPED WITH CLAMP...IS FOR ??
UPPER AND LOWER PLUG HOLES ARE FOR THE TOC
THE MIDDLE PROTRUDING WITH PLASTIC PLUG IS FOR ???.... THROTTLE BODY HOSE?

THANKS
 

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On the passenger side, the upper one that is capped with a clamp is for the heater return hose. The middle one is for a water level sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
On the passenger side, the upper one that is capped with a clamp is for the heater return hose. The middle one is for a water level sensor.

Oh, so then on the 94 with the pressurized reservoir , there's a T fitting in the heater hose, that end that normally would go into the pressurized reservoir would go into radiator then? and the water level sensor that goes into the radiator, is that the one that is found in the 94's reservoir? what about the hose coming from the throttle body? that hose from the throttle body went to the top plug in the 94"s reservoir, that's why I thought it would go into the radiator.
 

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Oh, so then on the 94 with the pressurized reservoir , there's a T fitting in the heater hose, that end that normally would go into the pressurized reservoir would go into radiator then? and the water level sensor that goes into the radiator, is that the one that is found in the 94's reservoir? what about the hose coming from the throttle body? that hose from the throttle body went to the top plug in the 94"s reservoir, that's why I thought it would go into the radiator.
Not familiar with the specific Pressurized Reservoir you are talking about. The Heater Hose connection at the radiator can be left capped, as well as the water level sensor ( both optional).

I used the heater hose connection because it was easier to access than going back to the water pump. I have had cars with a pressurized tank that was necessary for access, as the radiator was in a position that you could not easily get to the cap. You may be able to skip using it, but I would wait for someone more familiar with the LT1 to jump in.
 

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Is that upper port below the overflow connection on the radiator the correct size for the return hose from the throttle body?

Now that you have a radiator, why not switch back to a stock overflow tank?

I have a '96 LT1 in my El Camino but am running a '94 PCM. My radiator is a Champion for a G-Body and using the stock overflow tank. I don't have a coolant lever sensor and am running the return from the throttle body directly to the radiator. Both heater hoses connect to the water pump and don't have a tee connection in those lines. I'm using a standalone cooler for the EOC.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Is that upper port below the overflow connection on the radiator the correct size for the return hose from the throttle body?

Now that you have a radiator, why not switch back to a stock overflow tank?

I have a '96 LT1 in my El Camino but am running a '94 PCM. My radiator is a Champion for a G-Body and using the stock overflow tank. I don't have a coolant lever sensor and am running the return from the throttle body directly to the radiator. Both heater hoses connect to the water pump and don't have a tee connection in those lines. I'm using a standalone cooler for the EOC.

https://www.hotrodders.com/gallery/data/4787/IMG_15641.JPG
Hi roger,

No, it is not. its slightly larger for like a 5/8"ID (heater hose). i didnt measure the throttlebody but i think that is like 3/8" or 1/2" ID. I was thinking about a tapping into the coolant level sensor on the radiator with a threaded brass plug to run the TB hose into. i couldnt google a setup pic of a 93' and kinda found something on an S10 swap.

I have 2 grungy looking OEM overflows (the original to the cruck and one from an 86'). i wanted to get a new one but, a while back i priced them somewhere( i forget where) it was $4X.XX for the tank and $3X.XX for shipping... i thought the shipping was a little to crazy, almost right up there with the tank.
 

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On the radiator port with the internal thread, I assume that it's a standard pipe thread that you can put a fitting in it for your throttle body return hose. Why not do that?

Btw, Mike's Montes sells overflow tanks for El Caminos on ebay for $44 with free shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
On the radiator port with the internal thread, I assume that it's a standard pipe thread that you can put a fitting in it for your throttle body return hose. Why not do that?

Btw, Mike's Montes sells overflow tanks for El Caminos on ebay for $44 with free shipping.
yea, that internal thread is the coolant level one, i think it is a standard pipe thread. if im lucky i'll have a barbed fitting in my box-o-fittings. i'm trying to find something other than that drain plug(i didnt know my first post with drain **** got edited...too funny) to use.That plastic cap with the clamp looks cheesy,, i wonder if it is for dust protection or is used as a block off plug?

even better deal with the coolant jug...went straight to MM website..$34.99(free shipping) PN f109..i dont recall any place i looked before offering free shipping...guess better get it before it changes. oh,Btw, i like your enclosed fan shroud,did you make that? out of curiosity, what did that blocked plug go too(below your overflow tube)? where did you get those inlet/outlet hose pipes from?...those are sharp! Thanks Roger!
 

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...i like your enclosed fan shroud,did you make that? out of curiosity, what did that blocked plug go too(below your overflow tube)? where did you get those inlet/outlet hose pipes from?...those are sharp! Thanks Roger!
I actually don't know what Champion intended for these ports.
It had one with 1/4" pipe thread that I used for the throttle body return hose and the other one you see I left plugged.
Since my Champion radiator is made to fit multiple cars, I'd guess they just put them on there to cover all applications.

I didn't make the shroud. I bought it from Ledfoot along with my Champion radiator. They sold it with fans but I got them to sell me the shroud without the fans because they only sell no-name offshore fans. I then purchased a pair of Spal fans from Summit.
If I were you I'd find a shop to build you a shroud. It shouldn't be expensive since they are easy to build for anyone with just a bending brake and cutting tools.

The best place to look for those stainless tubing elbows is Vibrant. Then plug the part numbers in on Summit. They carry most of their stuff.

It still took me a long time and some trial and error to find radiator hoses to make it all fit nicely. I hope I can find the part numbers for those. They might work for you too. I'll hunt for them.

Btw, I have a Dakota Digital PAC-2750 controller for my fan setup.
I use it along with 3 relays for a 2 speed system. For half-speed the fans are wired in series and for full-speed they are wired in parallel. The nice thing about this is the fans at half speed are almost silent. I can give you more details about this if you are interested.
 

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The Water Level sensor on mine was not threaded- just a snap in with an o-ring seal. IIRC, the threaded fittings are for the Auto Trans cooler/ oil cooler. Looks like this radiator has an oil cooler on one side, and a trans cooler on the other ( ore just the option of which side t0 plumb a trans). The Water Level sensor on mine was not threaded- just a snap in with an o-ring seal.

I used a dual fan from an LS1 camaro( late 90's). Fit very well. I used the three relay setup too, with both fans wired in series on low; through the relays on high. I use the ECM to control on/off of the fans, but also wired in the AC high pressure switch for High Speed operation, as well as a Temp Sender in the head as another fail-safe for high temp operation on high speed. Got the relays and fan wiring off a Cadillac, pre-wired and ready to go. I think the fan connectors even fit the LS1 fans.

Here's a link for a good diagram of the three relay wiring.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1155252-need-camaro-fan-motor-diagram.html
 

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This is a 2-speed 3-relay schematic from a GM service manual:



Here is a wiring diagram that I drew up based on that schematic.
The L and H wires connect to the Dakota Digital controller. The DD controller has an input for an A/C trinary switch that will turn the fans on high speed if the high side pressure is high enough to activate the switch.



I used these Hella weather-sealed relays:
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/75605/Hella-7794307-Skirted-Mini-Relay-/

I crimp and solder all the connections and cover with dual-wall adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing.

Here's where I mounted the 3 relays:

 

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Discussion Starter #13
oops, let me begin with, i should have noted this in my first post. the aluminum radiator above is PN 1212AA liland glogal, the fans i have are the flex-a-lite dual fans dual pullers #210. Lastnight i pulled out the old plastic/aluminum radiator and slid the new all aluminum in...fit perfect with a nominal 1/4"- 3/16" gap on both sides, being i notched the frame on both sides to make the LT1 radiator fit. i routed the fan wires to the orange wire(if im not mistaken, the black is for the kickin of the secondary fan when a/c is on) in the OEM fuse box. when i start the cruck and about 1-2 minutes later the fans kick in. the fans run on high as far as i can tell. i need to re-read the flexlite manual to see if or how i can adapt them for a low /high speed. I'm not using the supplied thermostat box that i got with the fans and not sure if that box also regulates the speed.i'll try and decipfer your schematics above/and the LS1tech to see if i can fit that into my application. As far as the shroud, i would probably try and make one, i have a old-new stainless steel BBQ tray that a guy made for me a while back, that i never used, i'll measure that up and see if its got enough SQ.FT to make the shroud. guess i need to make a lowes/HD run for the pipe fittings.
1 1/2" for a ball valve style for the drain and a 1" barbed fitting to connect the throttlebody hose to the coolant level sensor port.
 

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Those Flex-A-Lite units aren't my favorite.
I would not recommend mounting it directly to the radiator core. I think the vibration shortens the life of the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Those Flex-A-Lite units aren't my favorite.
I would not recommend mounting it directly to the radiator core. I think the vibration shortens the life of the radiator.
On the OEM radiator (Alum/plastic) i have them mounted on the core, and yea i would have to agree that over time the vibration of the nylon fasteners/fan mount itself would probably wear a hole in the core somewhere. I bought those flexlites about 12 yrs ago new off CL, off a guy who said his 383 in his 55 chevy wasnt cooling enough. the elky has been a garage queen for all those yrs and i bought them when i did the LT1 swap, so i've never actually had the road experience with them but they seem to put out a lot. were they rated as a poor performer or something? I measured my BBQ grill pan (316SS) and looks like its gonna work for a shroud. So if i have good luck in forming a shroud out of it i'll be good,if not then plan B
 

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Discussion Starter #16
well, finally after a month i finished fabricating my shroud and yesterday i installed the radiator BUT!:

For the throttle body steam return hose, i found the fitting, its a 3/8" 24 UNF,i got it, and now decided not to use it so i just plugged that middle port out of the radiator. The reason was, the 94' caprice LT1 OEM set up has the hose going into the pressureized resivoir @ the top, and seems to be a purge for excess steam. if i plug that hose into the coolant sensor plug (in the middle of the radiator) i'm gonna get pressured coolant flowing back into the throttle body! Is this a correct assumption?

the Worse part: now that i had a chance to start hooking up the EOC lines and TOC lines... i found the radiator holes for the TOC to be to small for the line fittings. And the holes for the EOC are too big for for the line fittings:banghead:
 

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You do not want to plug the steam pipe from the back of the engine. You don't have to have the water go through the throttle body but it must go back to the radiator. It's carrying water not steam. It's purpose is to prevent steam from the rear side cylinders that run hotter than the front if they don't get the extra water flow that that the pipe carries.

Since you live in Hawaii, you don't need hot water running through the throttle body so you can just bypass it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You do not want to plug the steam pipe from the back of the engine. You don't have to have the water go through the throttle body but it must go back to the radiator. It's carrying water not steam. It's purpose is to prevent steam from the rear side cylinders that run hotter than the front if they don't get the extra water flow that that the pipe carries.

Since you live in Hawaii, you don't need hot water running through the throttle body so you can just bypass it.
hi Roger,
its been a while since i looked at my service manual and i probably need to refresh my memory again on how the steam pipe works, so you are saying, after coolant is circulated through the heads, excess liquid coolant comes out the back of the heads into the steam pipes and goes into the trottlebody, then that coolant goes back into the overflow/ pressureized tanks?
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
wow! i cant believe a month has gone by Roger since i saw your last post. Since then i had to go back again to the hyraulic shop and get the proper fittings for the EOC and TOC lines. The first guy gave me some crappy A/C aluminum fittings that didnt work and then i went back to another guy and he hooked me up! So i got that all squared away. Got the radiator all hooked up and the elky running, bled the coolant via the bleeder valve and got it to normal operating temp but found out my OEM guage doesnt work now(if it aint always something!) so i hooked up my aftermarket guage. And i also read that article until my eyes glazed over plus read ur suggestion.


Now, heres what i did: since i'm using a regular elky (non-pressurized)overflow tank i routed that throttle body hose into there(temporarily thru the top where the cap is)...and yes, its spewing out liquid coolant and fills my tank up pretty good..about half way...So now Roger, you routed your hose into the middle part of your radiator(from you pic post #5 and post #7). i assume that works all well? will the radiator allow coolant to flow from the throttle body into the radiator, i guess i'm thinking about the PSI in the radiator vs the PSI coming out of the throttle body. i sure dont want radiator coolant flowing into the TB.
 
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