[1980SteelBeast]

So since I've installed the Kim Barr 383 in May of 2011,I've had nothing but pure hell with starters. I've had a shop(Midas) break the nose off 2 Autozone starters and with the mini starters,I've been getting a nasty bite/grind. I've shimmed it many times on the block and just recently I've stopped the biting and loud starting simply because there are now shims installed on the starter itself. Its quiet now and sounds normal but now it seems like I'm not getting the starter to even hit the FLEXPLATE. Saturday,it started smooth with 2 shims between the starter and the block and after running it a few times and cranking it about 10 times,its not engaging at all.
What could be wrong? Should I remove the two shims between the block and starter?
Right now,I have a total of 4 shims on this starter. 2 between the block and the mounting plate and 2 oval shaped ones on the starter itself. What's going on?
THERE ARE NO MISSING TEETH ONE THE FLEXPLATE AND NO DAMAGE ON THE STARTER GEAR.

 

[LOCKJAW]

Brandon, are you using the special starter bolts with fluted edge to prevent loosening? Regular bolts won't keep the starter from moving.

 

[centex396]

I have no idea if you can use a brace on a mini starter but GM used these for years.
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/qq228/fecustom/Starterbrace.jpg&imgrefurl=http://gbodyforum.com/viewtopic.php?f%3D13%26t%3D26417&h=576&w=768&sz=58&tbnid=vsqdyULiv2jfiM:&tbnh=90&tbnw=120&zoom=1&usg=__u4a_8BJzH1LnyQUMUu9aC7qNmIU=&docid=JlusS7mc8srARM&sa=X&ei=OpQgUInVE-Wg2AWQl4HwCw&ved=0CG8Q9QEwAw&dur=2137

 

[steelybill]

Maybe you can see how the teeth on the starter are meshing with the flexplate, if the cover is off on the bottom. To do that, I remove the heavy wire or strip, from the starter motor itself, so the solenoid can pull the gear out to engage the flex plate, without the starter motor running. When engaged, a 1/8" drill should fit between the tip of a tooth, to the bottom of the gap on the other gear etc. Shims can be shuffled to get the rod or drill to just fit between the teeth.
The solenoid can be engaged by someone turning the key, or with a jumper wire from the big post, to the small "S" post on the solenoid.
Some rebuilt starters come with a 1/8 " rod to check that mesh clearance.

(hope this makes sense )

 

[DONE DEAL DONNY]

From what I know, yes he's using the fluted edge bolts. He can mount one and it will be fine for a short period then it will either start grinding or not engaging at all. The he can add shims and sometimes that works or remove shims and sometimes that works but nothing stays constant. He has a new flex plate from Summit, a pretty new tork converter and I know he has tried at least 5 different starters all with the same results, they work fine for a little while.
It seems like either the flex plate or the converter has some play but their tight???
What parts could cause it to change on the same starter?
Donny

 

[jpmdaddy]

It's CHUCKIE - he has that mischievious smile on his face oke:

 

[1980SteelBeast]

Here's a vid of the starter with 2 shims between the block and the starter. There's those 2 and 2 of the round ones on the starter itself which pulls it away from the flexplate. I just removed the 2 from the block and its cranking for now.

 

[Carr7640]

After. Belton my starter got to making grinding noise. My negative cable was 3 months old I thought sounds like I need a new starter. Well I replaced the connector at the battery. And. It started with. No more grinding.

 

[1980SteelBeast]

After. Belton my starter got to making grinding noise. My negative cable was 3 months old I thought sounds like I need a new starter. Well I replaced the connector at the battery. And. It started with. No more grinding.

All my cables have been replaced and are fairly new. It seems like the starter has moved or something.:dontknow:

 

[jpmdaddy]

I think I would have your battery checked at autoparts store - check it for amperage and draw - I know you replaced it earlier this year - but I also saw the condition of the battery cables before you replaced them and you've run that battery dead several times - in this Texas heat - batteries can crap out pretty easy.....

Again, I would test it just to eliminate that as a possibility.

 

[DONE DEAL DONNY]

It doesn't look like the starter is close enought to the flex wheel or the starter is not extending out far enough???:dontknow:
Donny

 

[LOCKJAW]

Probably a dumb question..do you find the starter and/or the bolts loose after starting it a few times. How much tq you putting on those bolts?
I am running a Jegs mini but next time I will buy standard 80's Corvette unit. Bolts right in regardless of my Hookers.

 

[jpmdaddy]

It doesn't look like the starter is close enought to the flex wheel or the starter is not extending out far enough???:dontknow:
Donny

The starter he is using right now is one that came out of my 66 - it was new but sat too close to the flexplate. It actually made such a racket we shut it down immediately back in Sept.

We put 2 shims in between the starter and the mounting block. This backed the starter away from the flexplate just enough.

I never liked the sound of it, rattled with those shims, so I replaced it with a different brand mini.... let him borrow it to see if any difference for him.

SOOOO - Brandon could remove those 2 shims also and put that starter a little closer to the flexplate.

 

[1980SteelBeast]

I removed 2 of the long shims and its cranking so far...We'll see how long it lasts. And yes,I'm using the knurled starter bolts to hold it in place.

 

[1980SteelBeast]

This mothercuffer has done it again! It cranked fine for a few times,went to the biting sound and not its just free spinning. The starter is not even jumping out now. I've had it! Is this Gods way of telling me to get a Ford Ranchero?!
Now I'm to the point to where I'm staring at 2 mini starters that are just free spinning. I called the place I ordered my starter from and he said he's heard of this happening once before. I told him I'm gonna start shaving the mounting plate down to stop the flexplate from hitting the starter gear.
Is there a way to rebuild mine or correctly take it apart and put it back together? If so,does anyone have a manual or some kind of detailed instructions on how to solve this?

 

[HKDUP87]

This mothercuffer has done it again! It cranked fine for a few times,went to the biting sound and not its just free spinning. The starter is not even jumping out now. I've had it! Is this Gods way of telling me to get a Ford Ranchero?!
Now I'm to the point to where I'm staring at 2 mini starters that are just free spinning. I called the place I ordered my starter from and he said he's heard of this happening once before. I told him I'm gonna start shaving the mounting plate down to stop the flexplate from hitting the starter gear.
Is there a way to rebuild mine or correctly take it apart and put it back together? If so,does anyone have a manual or some kind of detailed instructions on how to solve this?

I know how you feel I don't know but could you have put the flex plate on backwards? I don':dontknow::dontknow:t know if that could even happen but I know when changing mine one side has humps that would change the spacing.

 

[1980SteelBeast]

I know how you feel I don't know but could you have put the flex plate on backwards? I don':dontknow::dontknow:t know if that could even happen but I know when changing mine one side has humps that would change the spacing.

I verified the flexplate is on correctly. The weights are facing the transmission as they're supposed to. Does anyone have a manual or link to how to tear my starter down and put it back so where the solenoid kicks the starter gear out?