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Discussion Starter #1
Thanks first for the words on replacing door hinge pins.

So far, all that is left in the 75's interior is a floor gearshift, the steering column, the wiring and a lot of rust.

Anyway, I am riveting in 18 guage in four panels. Then four 16 guage (3" by 25") across the rear panels to match the seat brackets. This will mount to 1/8" slab (attached with nuts washered bolts or rivets). The swivel seat mount is getting new feet welded on next week. Small and large washer on the outside. Does this sound like it would hold up?

The seatbelts have to move back too, but it sounded like the hardware that comes with aftermarket 3 pt seat belts would be enough..

Thanks,
J
 

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Should. Sounds like a good plan. When you get it back together, slam yourself real hard into the back of the seat(simulate hard braking) & recheck anything. I would recheck anything around once a week for a while to make sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the test pilot idea...I should have asked, how would have you done this project? Anyway, I got the first one hammered in and riveted in. Thinking now may have been OK with the 22 guage up front, and only fussed with the 18 in the back. Oh well, I bet she creaks and groans a lot less with a floor you can jump up and down on.

Man, I need to build up my hammering arms.
J
 

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On my 76, when I mounted the buckets I got for it, I had to fab a bracket/mount for the inside and outside mounts. I used mid sized bumper bolts going through a plate under the floor pans that is 2" wide and spans the distance between the braces on each front and back. I was worried that in the event of an accident, God forbid, the bolts would rip through the floor pan. It is probably an unfounded fear but just to be safe.

I put the bumper bolts through the floor from the bottom up and used the bolts on the top side. This would make it easy to remove for what ever reason from the inside. The bumper bolts have a square shoulder which kept them from turning when I tightened them down and they are flat (rounded actually) on the bottom so nothing will hang on them if I ran over something like plastic or grass/weeds etc...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Seats are In

That sounds like a good set-up for the hardware, thanks. I ended up with the 16 guage welded on. He tacked down along the rivets on the floor pans too.

It is amazing how it used to creak and sway around corners with elevation change, now it is solid.

For the waterproofing, I couldn't find the ECOAs recommended seam sealer sealant, and ended up with a caulk that is for metal flashing and gutters. Any thoughts before I dump a canister of it into the floor pan seams?

That still blows my mind that silicone rusts metal. Hopefully it is a slow rust, becuase I must admit, I used it to seal around the windshield and the roof rails...Oh well.

Seatbelts next.
J
 

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What I did was install longer bolts & washers to the front mounts to jack up the front of the seat so it will tilt back some more. I hate to seat straight up when I drive. I am looking for a better set of buckets.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
End Result for now

Hey the seats are in solid. A mishmash of the ideas above. Will check all connections again next week. AND the seat belts, well, I had a shop put them in because I just wasn't sure enough to be happy with me doin it. Anyway, they came out great, and now I can finally drive the car around some. Took it down to the city today, for a big ole St. Patricks Day Parade.

So thanks!

Next up. replace accelartor cable, and the now infamous sagging door pin and bushings replacement. And final waterproofings once it gets above 45 degrees so the sealant will set up right.
 
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