I haven't seen many cars with the top supports, prolly because of clearance issues with parts. Those are usually for high HP twister torque type motors. Don't think the top bars do too much for suspension. I could be wrong though.
Must do El Camino daily ride upgrades
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Update. Today I order my rear bar (hellwig) and HD springs. Shocks will be ordered tomorrow. Plan to drop rear end this weekend and start on the rear blazer brake conversion. Pics coming soon.
are you in a state that requires parking brake to function at annual inspection? if so, I hope you have a solution to the rear blazer parking brake issue. solutions do exist but you will need to manufacture the brackets
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What do you mean? Are you referring to the brake line bracket?
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What do you mean? Are you referring to the brake line bracket?
nope, cable for the parking brake. if required, you'll have to rig it up somehow. IIRC the geometry for the rear brakes is all wrong and you can't just bolt-on the blazer rear brakes and expect the parking brake to work.
one of our other members here will check me on this I'm sure, @darbysan @Billy Jack
http://www.elcaminocentral.com/gtsearch.php?q=rear disc brake darbysan
Highly recommend Blazer Brake Upgrade
What to take off Blazer?
78 to 86 Rear Disc Conversion?
Budget GM Rear Disc Brakes
How to Swap GM Rear Brakes to Discs - Car Craft Magazine
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Are you referring to the brake line bracket or brake light?
1987 GMC Caballero, 350, Holley Sniper EFI, 200-4R
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The front corners of my hood move a lot, above 60 mph. Or is relative to the fender movement?
Do any of you know, will adding the core to fender supports reduce this movement?
Do any of you know, will adding the core to fender supports reduce this movement?
neither, I am talking about the metal cable. when you press down on the Parking brake, the cable is physically attached to the rear drums and causes the rear drum shoes to expand out against the brake drum. you pull the Parking Brake release and it releases the brakes.
it is also called an Emergency Brake because if you were to lose hydraulic brake fluid pressure, the only brakes you have left are the rear drums, and you stand down on that Parking Brake pedal.
some states (Texas is one) require a vehicle to have a Parking brake (all vehicles have a parking brake) at annual inspection. if your state ( you never told us where you live) requires it, you will have to have it working before you go to get it inspected.
joe, youshould have some rubber stand-offs at each front hood corner. this helps stabilize the hood and orevent wobbling
No, it's the rubber bumper stops in the header panel. If they are worn/cracked, old or basically moved to the point of being useless, you'll get rocking from side to side using the latch as the fulcrum. They should sit the hood flush at the corners plus a hair so there's a slight tension when the hood is latched. If the hood latches high, that might need adjusting or the front clip raised a hair to bring everything in line. You'll know if one fender is out as that corner will be lower/higher than the rest of the hood.
1987 GMC Caballero, 350, Holley Sniper EFI, 200-4R
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New rubber adjusted so they're making contact with the underside of the hood. Above 65 or so the front corners lift up & down.
I'm trying to fabricate filler between the core support & header panel to divert more air through the radiator and away from the lower side of the hood. It must be a problem with my Made in Taiwan OPGI hood, that others don't have
I'm trying to fabricate filler between the core support & header panel to divert more air through the radiator and away from the lower side of the hood. It must be a problem with my Made in Taiwan OPGI hood, that others don't have
1987 GMC Caballero, 350, Holley Sniper EFI, 200-4R
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So, if I remove the air dam do you believe that will reduce some of the lifting of the corners? I'll try it
Dunno. There's multiple things that all contribute to the results. Cheap opgi hood, air dam, rake of the car, height of the nose off the road, restrictions or lack of behind the radiator etc. Possibly you just happen to have everything set up to be worst case scenario. Same thing happened to the Toyota Supra ultimate version. Rated at over 240mph, but at over @ 160mph the corners of the hood would flex upwards like wings.
I know I raised my corner bumpers until the hood was level, a little tight on the latch, but the stock hood doesn't budge at speed. And I have the OEM tiny bib of an air dam.
I know I raised my corner bumpers until the hood was level, a little tight on the latch, but the stock hood doesn't budge at speed. And I have the OEM tiny bib of an air dam.
1987 GMC Caballero, 350, Holley Sniper EFI, 200-4R
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I'm making contact & corners are level with fenders & header. I'm willing to crank it up a bit. Clearly my Made in Taiwan OPGI hood has flexible corners. I can crank those bumpers up and slam the hood shut
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I'm in Louisiana brother. Not sure, I dont think its required. Just parking lights.
Parking brakes come in handy, especially if you need to jack up the front end, can't rely on the tranny since the tires will rotate an inch or two before locking up, and not everyone has a Posi rear, so jacking up the drive tire can make a person nervous.
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Just curious. So what's your solution to that? Keep drums in the back?
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Just curious. So what's your solution to that? Keep drums in the back
depends on why you are considering the rear brake change
1) if you're doing it for looks, then go ahead
2) if you're doing it for better braking, several of our members will dispute that. they say you're better off replacing the stock cylinder with an S-10 truck rear brake cylinder which is bigger
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