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My 69 SS 396 build.

44K views 307 replies 23 participants last post by  Wrencher 
#1 ·
I bought this Elky out of Arizona and it has a next to perfect body and interior No rust no bondo. I intended to drive it but found I could not leave well enough alone and wanted an exceptional driver.
After experiencing what I have done this far, I have no idea how some of you take on projects with bad body, frame or interior issues in your home work shops. Although extensive, most of my build is pretty straight forward, and while not easy doing it solo on my 69 year old body, I am going slow and easy Well, I have been tearing things apart for over a year and am about to begin reassembly soon.I have removed the engine and 4 speed , and stripped the engine bay.I have gone thru the tranny and it is ready to go. I mulled over a repower for a long time. The engine is fairly low mileage (66K) and original so I finally decided to rebuild it.Balance and blueprint and no performance mods other than a bigger hydraulic roller cam and roller rockers, being careful to retain enough vacuum for power brakes. It is in the shop for that work as of last week. Mine was equipped with a smog pump which I choose to remove, I bought new non smog exhaust manifolds and had them ceramic coated.

1)I have installed new control arm bushings and upper and lower ball joints in all control arms after sandblasting and painting the arms.

2)It had no power steering so bought the conversion kit, and finally got the bracketry squared away thanx to help from some very kind and patient Forum members.

3)I am converting the factory air to 134a, and using Classic Air's Engine compartment upgrade kit which includes a sanderson compressor, new lines and new condenser as well as their compatible poa and expansion valve and a new evaporator. So, all components that touch freon will be new and compliant.

3)I have a new power brake booster and master cyl.... As well as....

4)New front brake lines in SS, and new rubber lines

5)New calipers,rotors,pads, rear brake cyls and shoes

6)New front and rear springs

7)New front and rear shocks

8)new clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing

9)New engine, front lights and a/c wiring harnesses

10)All new tie rod ends and new center link, new pitman and idler arm

11)Sand blasted and painted front sway bar, all new sway bar bushings

12)Sandblasted and painted drive shaft and installed new u-joints.

13) Sand blasted and painted transmission crossmember

This week I have been pressure cleaning and scrubbing the engine compartment firewall,front frame, radiator support etc in preparation for paint. The inner fender wells are out so, I will also clean sand and repaint.

To date it has been a 14 month journey of disassembly and parts gathering. Once the engine compartment area is painted I can start assembly of all these parts that have consumed my garage for the past year

I want to get front end together and engine installed and running. Then I will recondition the wiring , dash pad, etc on the interior. Lastly I will clean and paint the undercarriage from the trans tunnel back, rebuild/ replace rear components.

The last thing will be a new exhaust system.

I hope this post was appropriate here and hope it was not too long and/or boring.

Before someone post a WORTHLESS WITHOUT PICTURES, please know I am having difficulty posting photos and will resolve that soon. I would like to share pictures as much as some might like to view them
 
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#35 ·
Moving forward for a change.I installed the gauge cluster with the new harness and fuse panel. American Autowire does a great job with their harnesses. Even the fastener clips are oriented correctly.While the harness is basically plug and play when installing it must be done in concert with the A/C harness, all duct work A/C control head, heater cables and vacuum lines. I removed the seat and steering column which made access easier, but, still difficult for me anyway. I did discover if you fail to put the duct from the center vent across the top of the instruments and wiring, you have to disassemble and do it again!



I installed the heater box inside with a new heater core new gaskets and one new cable. Then moved outside and installed blower motor and case a new evaporator and the evaporator box, New PB booster,new engine wiring harness, A/C relay, wiper motor, A/C wiring etc.

Back inside, the radio and new kick panels with speakers came in so startinting to install them

The parking brake assembly and steering column base bracket had some pretty heavy surface rust, so here they are with Ospho Rust Netrulizer doing it's magic before paint and install once the kick panel is installed.
 
#38 ·
Got the steering column painted and dressed with switches, floor plate ready with new gaskets, and a new rag joint, ready for installation

I had to abandon the dash speaker as I was unable to get a dual speaker dash mount to satisfactorily work with A/C vents etc. So I bought replacement kick panels with speakers. The emergency brake pedal would not clear the speaker so I removed the brake assembly(again)cut the pedal off and moved it towards the passenger side about 5/8" to gain sufficient clearance.


 
#40 ·
Rob, it was so complete I was amazed. It had the light sockets and even the harness fasteners that plug into the top of the gauge cluster to hold the harness in place properly oriented to hold it correctly. The same was true for the A/C front lighting and the engine harnesses.They are not inexpensive, but, they are top quality in my opinion.
 
#41 ·
I was disappointed with the Custom Auto Sound radio I purchased and have returned it in favor of the Retrosound model two as used by Robpp in his build. While putting the foam steering column seal in place I ripped it so, I am awaiting a replacement.
The engine builder was dragging his feet a bit, but, I had a conjugal visit with the engine in the machine shop this week, so, I am feeling a bit better.It is being bored, decked,align bored,balanced and blueprinted, roller cam, roller rockers. Nothing outrageous, but, hopefully a bulletproof street car I can scare the wife with on occasion!
Once I get the steering column and radio installed I will move out to the A/C condenser etc in preparation for the engine. I also still have to prep and paint inner wheel wells top radiator bracket etc with the same paint I used on the undercarriage.
 
#42 ·
Decided to work on the A/C condenser while awaiting the new radio and steering column foam seal. I mounted the dryer to the condenser per instructions and also the mounting brackets for the condenser. Not to be! They supplied the incorrect mounting brackets. They agreed to send new brackets,so, now awaiting more parts.
 
#43 ·
I made arrangements with Mountain Man Fuel Systems today to purchase a Quadrajet for my build. He said the numbers on my carb were for a 350ci and the date code was way off. He is building a 1970 big block carb for me and I should have it by the end of next week. I don't mind this wait as it will be weeks before the engine work is complete and I will still have to paint it.Ted and his wife seem like good folks to deal with.
 
#44 ·
Finally some forward movement. I got the new foam column seals I ordered. Glad I ordered two, I tore the 2nd one too. Third time was the charm (with the aid of silicone spray) It is tough because the hole is much smaller than the diameter of the steering column, plus you must stretch it over the reverse lock lever. Then you must deal with the firewall plate and the clutch rod boot, rod and retainer plate.


Then get it all thru the fire wall without tearing the foam seal and keeping the seal properly "rolled" to shed water from the interior.

You have to force the clutch boot thru on top of the inside fire wall plate and put the retainer plate on top of the boot.





I had some rag joint issues I won't go into here as It was discussed in the steering section

http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showthread.php?t=200058



So, it is all installed but not yet tightened up . I spent a good bit of time looking for one of the 3/8" nuts that hold the steering column to the dash and could not find it. I called it a day. This was all a pretty good chore for me working alone. Wish I had a work buddy. All my old car cronies have either moved away or passed on. I need to hurry this along or it will be someone elses lucky find as a project to finish!! LOL!
Oh, and while picking up my tools I found the missing nut, attached to the magnet on my worklight.

All in all a fairly productive day. The proper brackets came for the A/C condenser today,but, it looks to me like they will need a little modding. Tomorrow's another day.
 
#45 ·
Slow day, all I accomplished was to install the master cylinder and hold-off valve. I will still need to "bench bleed" it but wanted to get in place and get all the new brake lines properly bent and in place so there is no futzing with brake line alignment when its full of fluid. I clear coated the booster with high temp clear engine paint and painted the master cylinder with Eastwood's brake gray, brake fluid resistant, paint.To be honest I am a bit sore from wrestling the column in place yesterday
Once I get the new radio I can finish up the A/C vents, install the radio and be done with the dash side and move on to the condenser and a bunch of little stuff, brake lines to the rear end, install rotors, calipers, pads, flex brake lines etc. Gotta get on the ball.....Hunting season rapidly approaching.Headed to the lease in Georgia to plant food plots on September 6.
 
#46 ·
Installed the Classic Auto Air condenser and dryer today.



Also installed new radiator support bushings and hardware, installed the reverse gear lockout linkage .
I know the linkage looks rusty in the photo,but, it's not. it was clean bare metal with some patina and I clear coated it.I don't want everything painted black or silver and my personal opinion is a little patina here and there adds character.

Even with the protection of the aluminum roof over my work area the wind and rain we have been getting make for a damp environment some days.
 
#47 ·
Mountain Man Fuel Systems, Ted and Ardell came thru for me. My old carb was not correct for my application, so, Ted sourced and rebuilt the proper card and had it on my doorstep in less than 2 weeks! It looks new and no boogered up screws and complete with both mounting and air cleaner gaskets.




Now I need the engine builder to give me something to install it on!
 
#54 ·
I installed the rotors, calipers and pads today. I had intended to hook up the front flex lines too, but,of course I ordered drum brake hoses in error. So I quit til I get the proper hoses





Two of the foam steering column seals I tore up on the ground in the last photo!
I will button up some small details tomorrow and button her up for about 10 days. I am headed to Georgia and my hunting lease to plow and plant food plots for upcoming deer season.
 
#55 ·
Back at it after returning from my hunting lease. I am also getting over the respiratory bug my wife was so generous to share.
I installed my Retrosound Model Two radio. It was a good buy from Matt's Classic Bowtie, discounted from list price and free shipping. The radio has many standard features optional on many competitors like Bluetooth, i-pod, i-Phone ready,Hands free phone mic, 2 USB connectors,sub-woofer and amp connectors etc. The radio is universal fitment to many models with a variety of knob options and the knobs are actually detachable from the radio and nearly infinitely adjustable.

With helpful suggestions from JJ and others I wanted to test all the wiring I have replaced ( every harness excepting the rear body harness).
I made a 12ga jumper wire with a 20amp inline fuse and connected it to the battery terminal block on the backside of the right headlight bucket(where the small wire from the positive battery cable hooks up)and a ground wire jumper hooked to the ground bolt on the headlight bucket where the headlights get ground.
So, I was able to test all lights, turn signals, cigarrette lighter, radio etc. Everything worked flawlessly, which is a credit to the American Autowire Wiring harnesses.Although labor intensive for someone away from these cars for decades they fit perfectly.
One of the biggest benefits, in my mind, to a complete rewire, is intimately understanding fitment and location of every single component and wire. When I plug something in or disconnect a wire I know not only where it goes but where it originates and what it lights up or what it operates.
Now, I will finish the radio installation by securing loose wires, install remaining AC/heater ductwork beneath the radio, and install duct hose and dash AC outlets. Installing the ashtray and glove box door will wrap up the dash work entirely.
 
#58 ·
The dash area is pretty well buttoned up. Time to move outside.
When I painted the undercarriage I stopped just forward of the rear axle. Today I pulled all rear brake components, and removed the third member.



I spent a half day degreasing, scraping, and pressure cleaning the assembly, and it still needs a final cleaning and pressure cleaning before paint


I will take the rear end in next week to have a limited slip differential and new wheel bearings installed.
Once I remove the rear control arms and the gas tank I will thoroughly clean the undercarriage, and prep and paint with the Chassis Shield 2 part epoxy I used on the frontside. Hopefully I can complete all this before hunting season starts next month. I hope we don't get a hurricane before I get it where I can put the wheels back on!
 
#59 ·
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