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Discussion Starter #1
since you people are so nice to me i plan on asking you all the questions i think of until i anger you... well not that i want to anger you... i'm just trying to learn

how exactly is the ci of an engine measured. i read something about a motor being bored .40 over and then it was a different number of cubic inches. my only guess is that the "ci" value is the cubic inches of where the cylinders go. (yeah i am stupid, i don't even know what the location of where the cylinders go is called, my first elky is gonna be my learning car)

also one more question that i would probably get the answer to later but i will ask now anyway, just to learn more faster.

if you get an engine bored over you need new pistons right? because the ones you previosly had are to small. this is a retarded question but it just doesn't make sense to me. it doesn't make sense do to some confusion over my brothers VW golf... (hes making a ricer out of a VW, i want pure american muscle)

thanks to everyone who deals with my idiocy
 

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The CI of an engine is measured by the total volume of the cylinder when the pistons are at the bottom of the cylinder. The volume is from the top of the piston to the bottom of the head. The cubic inch displacement of a motor can be changed 3 ways that I'm aware of.

1) By changing the stroke of the motor. This involves changing the crank shaft and piston rods. This allows the piston to move further down the cylinder and creating a larger area for air/fuel to fill. There are limits to how much you can stoke a motor as the piston can only down the cylinder wall so far

2. By boring the cylinder out. This could be as little as a .10-.40 over which is normally only done just to make sure that the cylinder walls are still round and clean for the piston to travel in. In this case pistons do not need to be changed but the piston rings need to be changed. You can get rings for standard pistons that will work with this small of a bore. For example my LT1 that's going into my Elky was taken .40 over (if I'm rembering right) and it went from a 350ci to a 355ci. The pistons were replaced with stock ones because the originals had over 90k miles on them but .40 over rings were used. You can also bore a motor out for a alot more cubic inchs. A friend of mine is taking the LS1 motor in his 99 Camaro from 346ci to a 388ci. He had to replace the pistons with larger ones due to the amount of boring that was done. He's still using the stock crank shaft for this setup.

3. This is a combination of the 2 ways above. Using both methods you could wind up with a number of displacements. It's possible to get a 454 inch motor out a chevy small block now. Until a few years ago to get a 454 you had to use a big block to get this.

Hope this helps. And remember the only dumb question is the one you DON'T ask.
 

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UMMMMMMMMMMM.........I'd like to make some comments here. Poltergeist was correct about boring and stroking a motor, but if you bore an engine, it needs appropriate sized pistons to match the new bore diameter, as well as rings. Most Chevy engines can only be bored out .060 safely. With a sonic check, you may be able to go further, but then they run hot due to thin cylinder walls. In order to turn a 350 into a 388, it must have either the block or crank changed with that of a 400. Usually this is done with a 400 crank and .060 overbore of the 350 block, but it can go the other way also, using a 400 block and a 350 crank, and you end up with about 380 cu. in.

64SS427
 

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Sorry didn't add this on my friends 388. The orignal cylider sleeves were removed (bored out). The cylinders were bored to the new dyameter and new sleeves were installed. Then the 'new' cylinders were honed. New pistons were a must for this setup. This particular setup is an 'All Bore' 388. This cost $2000 just for the block to be setup. Extreme to say the least. Work like this is still pretty new and only a few shops can do this. Also this is being done (that I know of) on the newer aluminum blocks that are coming out in the Camaros and Corvettes. I was trying to keep the explanation simple.
 

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I think the best way to go is the 350 cast iron block +.030 over (4 bolt mains of course) with an aftermarket forged stroker kit, especially if your looking to create high horsepower, or use nitrous. The 400 block doesn't come with 4 bolt mains, and those engines run hot to begin with, plus they're hard to find in the boneyards. But if your looking to go big, and I mean BIG, cubic inches and have a lot of money, the 400 fitted with aftermarket caps and a stroker kit, can yield BIG cubic inches, I've seen 472 ci, can you imagine a small block that big? Make sure you have one heck of a cooling system though. :twisted:

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Discussion Starter #8
my mind is blown by all of this engine talk... it is so overwhelming... i must get use to it all... when you guys say nitrous do you actually meen like Nos and other brands... or is it something else... because if its the gas nitrous your talking about i ment to ask what kind of power nitrous boosters actually add...
 

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Endever said:
When you guys say nitrous do you actually meen like Nos and other brands... or is it something else... because if its the gas nitrous your talking about i ment to ask what kind of power nitrous boosters actually add...
From as little to as much as you want....but that bottom end better be build for it.

64SS427 hit it right on the head, if you use .030 over pistons you obviously must use .030 rings to match the pistons and bore.

On another note, I recently read an article about 4 bolts being stronger than 2 bolt mains was a myth...Any comments ?
 

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I've never heard that, maybe it's someones matter of preference, but I would rather have the presence of mind knowing I have a 4 bolt main block in there instead of a 2 bolt main and looking at whats left of my crank and rods laying on the ground under my car. I do believe that the 400 block does have additional webs cast in the side of the block for added strength, but if going with a 400, I would still fit it with aftermarket 4 bolt main splayed caps. Now the kid's gonna be even more confused isn't he?

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Discussion Starter #12
no i think i am getting better at this... i know most of the parts your talking about at least... and if i don't know them exactly i can tell by what other parts your talking about where they are at basically.... your talking about cam shafts with different number of things on them... god i'm an idiot... but i think i ma picking up on it
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok i missed a post and am forced to post 2 in a row here... ok i'm straight on nitrous now but how much of a boost does it give something like an El Camino
 

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Endever, when I was 13, my next door neighbor bought a 57 Chevy to customize. He asked me to help him (just being neighborly I guess). I took him up on his offer, although he really didn't do anything with the car except dismantle it. At age 17 my friend bought that 57 from my neighbor for $15 and my friend and I stuffed a 396 4 spd into it. Heres my point, at 13, I knew nothing, at 17, I was experimenting, at 18 I was hanging out at places like Nickey Chevrolet and Mr Norms (you old geezers know who), at 48 I build/restore my own cars, it wasn't overnight. I didn't go to school for it, I just enjoyed doing it. I read a lot, I mean a lot of performance magazines. Get a subscription to a magazine or two, SUPER CHEVY is the best, in my opinion. HOT ROD and CAR CRAFT are also good. You can learn a lot from those magazines, I did, and still do! Reading the Forums section here can help but its not going to teach. Reading those magazines will help you understand a lot of what is being talked about here in the forums, and you can go over the articles/pictorials in them again and again, I go back to my old magazines often. I'm not saying don't ask questions, but it will help you understand the answers you get here to your questions. Its a hobby ya just gotta love.

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Thanks, now I can see that starting with a 350 2 bolt main block, and adding 4 bolt main splayed caps, would be the best way to go for a high horsepower motor, but if building a budget motor the stock 4 bolt caps will suffice.

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2 bolt vs. 4 bolt- the only place where a 2 bolt is better is in a 400 block, because the 4 bolts have a tendency to crack, something to do with the extreme size of the cylinder bores. That said, I've seen many with the splayed caps both at the dragstrip and circle track run hard for a long time without problems. Splayed caps are definitely a better alternative when coverting any 2 bolt block, but when starting out looking for a core, a 4 bolt costs the same a 2 bolt in most cases. If you go to splayed caps it means more machine work (read $$$$$$)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
i would subscribe to those magz if it wasn't for that 50 bucks could end up getting my elky in the future... once i get the elky then i get the books
 
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