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Discussion Starter #21
I had the gauge pod in and out twice and only had limited time so I gave up for now. I didn't do a continuity check on the dash plug, can anybody tell me which wires in the plug go to ground, constant 12V and each individual gauge?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Thanks, the diagram will definitely help. Is there also a plug on the firewall where the wiring harness come through the firewall?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Is the back of the gauge pod supposed to have a hole in it with sides where the dash plugs inserts and makes contact with the printed circuit? Mine has a recess that's not very deep and it has a bottom to it so the contacts on the printed circuit kind of fold over the sides the make another fold and sit flat against the back of that recess.
 

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there is a firewall connector behind the fuse box on the driver side,
connectors are accessed from the outside for the engine harness,
front lighting, and main power connections...
and the AC and ECM Harness is on the pass side, but they go thru a rubber grommet..
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best back side pic I have
gauge2.jpg
1 TEXAS SALUTE.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #27
OK, today I got a chance to pull my dash pod again and check my connections. Using the diagrams some of you supplied, I found that the Black/Pink, number 16 on the cluster connector, shows no power when the key is on. Also, no power at the "Gauge" fuse with the key on. What's my next step? Can I jump another wire from the fuse box to power my gauges?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I've had the gauge pod out 3 times now. While I had it out I installed a Tic-Toc-Tach, which works, and upgraded my dash lights to LED's. When I got it back together, the lights behind the Speedo don't work now. Still no gauges.
 

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I assume you meant pink/black stripe wire..
earlier you had power in/out of the gage fuse..
now,, no power at the gage fuse,, but the new tach works, gages don't..
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there is 2 pink/black wires at the gage pod.. terminal 16 and 11..
both should be on or off, they come from the same place, the gage fuse..
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power to the gage fuse comes from the Ignition Switch
to the fuse box on the Pink wire, to the Gage and Turn/Back-up fuses..
Pink also feeds the Distributor, so it should not run if that's the problem..
Ignition Switch
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intermittent problems are the worse to figure out,
several goofy things going on at different times, aint no fun..
shorts, loose connections, bad grounds,,
and power back-feeding on ground circuits thru light bulbs..
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I've got am OHM/VOLT meter and I just got done pulling it all apart again and no voltage at the fuse, either side. In the process of putting it all back together I broke the needle on my speedometer. Anybody know where I can get a replacement? Is it possible to run a new wire from one of the IGN connections to the pink/black wire that runs the gauges?
 

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as a test, you could use a jumper from another IGN terminal in the fuse box
[make sure its fused] ,, some could be fused by the gage fuse..
check the Tail/BU fuse too..
i'd try and figure out the real problem..
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also the Gage Fuse powers a lot more things depending on the year model,,
could be the TCC, ECM or other Warning Lamps, Cruise, VSS, Pulse Wipers...
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X2 on the toothpick to fix the speedo needle,, get the flat/dull end kind..
 

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Discussion Starter #32
OK, I finally got a chance to check it out and here's what I found: I've got power a the "gauge" fuse but not at either of the "IGN" connections. The backup/tail lights work so it sounds like I have an issue between the fuse box and the back of the gauge pod, correct?
 

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sometimes you have power to the gage fuse, and not other times..
that would make me want to check/test the
Ignition Switch and FuseBox connections.
or could be the Ignition Switch internally has a intermittent connection..
But, if the motor allways starts and runs, [distributor power comes from the same Pink wire]
that means the Ign Switch is good, and the problem is after the switch...
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having power to the gage fuse, but not the Ign terminals,,
may mean they go thru another fuse, or a bad connection "some-where"..
i'll try and find my big book, and try to find those pics/diagrams...
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having power to the gage fuse and the gauges still don't work
says theres 2 problems..
as you said, between the fuse and the gauge or pod connector..
 

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Discussion Starter #34
OK, I pulled the gauge pod AGAIN and found that I have power on both connection 11 and 16 on the dash plug so I'm getting power at least to that point. The clock, tach, speedo and dash lights all work so the ground should be OK. I checked my connections on the back of the printed circuit and everything looks OK but that looks like it could be the last thin that would cause the issue. I replaced it when I first got the rig but since it doeen't get driven much I suppose that could be the problem. Any other suggestions?
 

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sometimes it helps to re-arch the metal terminals on the dash connector
so they make better contact with the PCB..
on those I cant remember if you need to remove them 1at a time,
that my be the safer way to do it..
or
on some you can get a thin hook behind the terminals and pull them out a little..
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I took a small straight blade screw driver and lifted each one a little before putting it all back together and still no luck.
 

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well if your absolutely sure, and there's no doubt about it, you have power ??
and the Volt Gage still don't work ??
the only other thing it needs is a Ground..
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but-but-but, why does power come and go, at the gage fuse ??
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it could be connections on the PCB,
but its unlikely all 4 gages have the same exact problem..
I mean without a cracked/bad trace on the PCB...
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if it don't work ?? check the power then ground..
if it works goofy ?? check the ground then power..
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I feel for ya Baz..
no one else is posting,
so we must have covered just about everything except, what we all forgot..
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Well, I guess the next step will be to pull the pod again and check all the circuits with an ohm meter to make sure my connections are complete. I found some 1/4" copper tape used for patching printed circuits just like the ones they use in the Elky's so if I find any issues hopefully I can repair them.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
All the dash lights, turn signals Speedo and Tach/Clock are working.Anybody have any idea what would cause this? Somebody said they had a similar problem and it turned out to be a wire connector under the rig near the transmission. Does that sound likely and exactly where is that connector? I've ordered a new printed circuit which I already replaced back in 2013 but it would be nice if it was something simple like just a connector so I wouldn't have to tear into the dash again.
 

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Problem now seems to be only the gauge pod circuitry if I follow this correctly. I would install the console without the gauge pod, clear plastic cover and console cover. Then meter check the circuit board clip connectors with power on and power off. After you get those readings you will know if power, ground, and sensor circuitry to gauge clips are working. If the clips are reading correctly you could remove a gauge (volt probably) from the pod and plug into the clips to do operational checks. What gets me is you've stated the gauges were working before painting. Also you may be getting erratic readings from fuse block. Wonder if any part of the car was wet sanded or something similar near connectors/fuse panel causing water/sanding debris high resistance contact points.
 
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