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· ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a new bolt broken off in my block. On youtube they show how with a left handed drill bit and also say an easy out isn't the best they break off. I don't have a welder to try so what's the best way you have done it? It's a 3/8 new bolt in the block. I'm sure it must be a soft bolt it broke with only 30 lbs on the torque wrench .:dontknow:
Thanks
 

· ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was short 2 bolts and the rinky-dink hwd store bolt box said steel but they probably put china crap in the bin. Engine is new and on the stand everything is new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Its his brand new crate motor, still on the stand

Is the bolt broken flush with the block surface? does it protrude or is it deep in the block, what grade was the bolt that was used, if its as soft as you say I would go ahead and try the easy out if the bolt is of such poor quality, easy outs break when trying to remove ancient stuck bolts, not brand spanking new cheap bolts in clean threads.

Make sure you understand or know the quality of the bolts you buy in the future - "steel" isnt good enough by any measure. Exhaust manifold bolts are going to get heat cycled alot, I would never do anything less than grade 5, though I too would lean towards grade 8 for this application.

It might also be wise to get a bottoming tap in the correct thread pitch and chase all the threads - clean threads make life a ton easier.

It's at the top of the block maybe one thread down from the opening screwed down at 30lbs. so it's tightened down and broken almost to the surface of the block. grade unknown probably labeled wrong said steel but broke of at 30lbs so it's got to be soft. I was using grade 5 till the last two my fault.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Be very, very careful with the small drill bits as they can break off also.

They are hardened so getting them out or drilling through is a batch after they break.

That's why I'm here I want to do it right so I'm on youtube also. I'm sure this bolt should be soft with the pressure it took to break off only 30lbs and it twisted off not snapped off I could feel it. My last bolt to boot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I think I said a left hand drill bit last night in your other thread? Anyway, that should work.
Another thing to think about and maybe you don't want to hear it but I'll say it anyway, be careful with the cheap stuff. Yeah I saw your post about realizing the hardware store sold you cheap bolts. But don't forget the cheap harbor freight tools. Those cheapy pittsburgh torque wrenches may or may not be anywhere near accurate. So while you say it's only torqued to 30 ft lbs it could be more. And that could be why the bolt broke. There's a reason that quality tools like snap-on, matco, mac, cornwell, etc sell torque wrenches for a few hundred dollars. See if you can borrow a better one from someone. Also remember to back off the settings before putting them away. Don't leave them set when not in use. It affects the calibration. And don't ever use them as breaker bars or long ratchets in either direction.

Cool got it I will try the center punch first then the left hand drill bit if needed. I also have an ezout set.
 

· ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
we may have to blast!!
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CURLY FRIES FIRST.THEN SLOWELY WE TURN. NO RABBIT SEASON


I have the center punch first if no then the left handed drill bit if not we will go to the ezout last. BE BACK SOON!!!!!
 

· ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·

· ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
O.K. DONE DEAL.I tried the punch but the metal was too soft so I measured the depth of another hole then drilled a small hole till I cleared all the way through the bolt without hitting the block. Next I did the same thing but a little bigger then tried the ezout but it felt like it may break so a little bigger hole and a bigger ezout and just tightened slowly with a little pressure then a little more then it broke loose. That won't happen again I found three bolts that the heads weren't stamped with the grade and trashed them. All the bolts are grade 5 now. Thanks for all the input from everybody again. The left handed drill bit I got was just a little to big to take a chance of hitting the threads.:You_Rock::beer::beer:



 

· ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Good Job!!! I can see that the hole you drilled was as close to the center of the bolt as you can be. That is the hardest part. Next time tighten down till just before it breaks, then back off 1/2 of a turn. LOL. The gear head god was smiling on you this time. By the way. Plan B was to drill it out, then helicoil. But that is for another day.
Don't think I will make that mistake again and hitting and drilling the center was pure luck.:beer:
 

· ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·

· ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I have one of those powerbuilt digital torque devices to check mine, and I agree with Dan, I've tested my friends pittsburgh torque wrench and it has been as accurate as my snap-on every time.
Thanks guys then mine should be o.k. it's brand new so I wont worry about that issue anymore.
Robert
 

· ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
another demonstration on why you chase all the threads with a bottom tap before you start assembling the new motor.

this WILL be on the semester test!!

class dismissed.

:poke:
Another good idea but class is just begun .

 

· ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Anti-seize is always a good idea for exhaust manifold bolts, and the bolts that hold brake calipers on. Of course if stainless steel bolts are used, like on the intake etc, anti-seize is a must. Don't ask how I found this out.......we are never too old to learn something it seems..
That's it if you don't ask you will find out the hard way and I'm trying to avoid that the best I can.:beer:
 
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