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Need to know how to get a broken bolt out of block help?

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I have a new bolt broken off in my block. On youtube they show how with a left handed drill bit and also say an easy out isn't the best they break off. I don't have a welder to try so what's the best way you have done it? It's a 3/8 new bolt in the block. I'm sure it must be a soft bolt it broke with only 30 lbs on the torque wrench .:dontknow:
Thanks
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No body mentioned the wax method! ?????????:???:
WE used bee's wax to remove rusted bolts and/or nuts back when I worked in industrial sheet metal (before I retired).

Doug
Grade 5 bolts are what you need, if you don't have enough. If your bolt broke off because it bottomed out in the hole, drilling all the way through it may help, when you drill for an easy-out. Snap-On makes easy outs with a collar on them, which work much better than the usual tapered type, which expands the bolt.
the left handed bit will probably get it out, when the head snapped off that released (hopefully) the pressure on the threads, you cant have too much pb blaster on it, save the eazyout for a last resort.

GL
we may have to blast!!

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we may have to blast!!
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CURLY FRIES FIRST.THEN SLOWELY WE TURN. NO RABBIT SEASON


I have the center punch first if no then the left handed drill bit if not we will go to the ezout last. BE BACK SOON!!!!!
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use a good easy out ,not the reverse spiral ones they just tighten the bolt in the hole more making it harder to get out.i use the square ones with the cutting edge on the back side of the flats. use only grade 8 bolts,what just happened is proof of why you dont use cheap bolts on your car.look for the marks on the head of the bolt the number of lines will tell you the strenth of the bolt.no marks are grade 2, 2 or 3 are grade 5, six are grade 8, 8 are grade 10 special alloy like supertanium. the factory uses grade 5 for most fasteners on the engine except for the flywheel, head,main and rod bolts.a grade 8 will stay tighter longer than a 5 and is less likely to break as well. always chase all threads before you put any bolts in any part of an engine. just because its new doesnt mean it wasnt damaged during production or shipping. new just means new you still need to take precautions
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Buying a bolt kit for my engine out.
O.K. DONE DEAL.I tried the punch but the metal was too soft so I measured the depth of another hole then drilled a small hole till I cleared all the way through the bolt without hitting the block. Next I did the same thing but a little bigger then tried the ezout but it felt like it may break so a little bigger hole and a bigger ezout and just tightened slowly with a little pressure then a little more then it broke loose. That won't happen again I found three bolts that the heads weren't stamped with the grade and trashed them. All the bolts are grade 5 now. Thanks for all the input from everybody again. The left handed drill bit I got was just a little to big to take a chance of hitting the threads.:You_Rock::beer::beer:



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3
Good Job!!! I can see that the hole you drilled was as close to the center of the bolt as you can be. That is the hardest part. Next time tighten down till just before it breaks, then back off 1/2 of a turn. LOL. The gear head god was smiling on you this time. By the way. Plan B was to drill it out, then helicoil. But that is for another day.
Good Job!!! I can see that the hole you drilled was as close to the center of the bolt as you can be. That is the hardest part. Next time tighten down till just before it breaks, then back off 1/2 of a turn. LOL. The gear head god was smiling on you this time. By the way. Plan B was to drill it out, then helicoil. But that is for another day.
Don't think I will make that mistake again and hitting and drilling the center was pure luck.:beer:
Don't think I will make that mistake again and hitting and drilling the center was pure luck.:beer:
...Great job,put anti-seze on the bolts next time..:beer:
...great job,put anti-seze on the bolts next time..:beer:

okie-dokie
I think I said a left hand drill bit last night in your other thread? Anyway, that should work.
Another thing to think about and maybe you don't want to hear it but I'll say it anyway, be careful with the cheap stuff. Yeah I saw your post about realizing the hardware store sold you cheap bolts. But don't forget the cheap harbor freight tools. Those cheapy pittsburgh torque wrenches may or may not be anywhere near accurate. So while you say it's only torqued to 30 ft lbs it could be more. And that could be why the bolt broke. There's a reason that quality tools like snap-on, matco, mac, cornwell, etc sell torque wrenches for a few hundred dollars. See if you can borrow a better one from someone. Also remember to back off the settings before putting them away. Don't leave them set when not in use. It affects the calibration. And don't ever use them as breaker bars or long ratchets in either direction.
I'm not sure I agree with you on the analysis of the Pittsburgh brand of tool. I find them to be innovative and of good quality, unless you buy the $6 31 piece socket set.
I've broken a hell of a lot more Snap-off tools and Craftsman than I have Pittsburgh. Every time I have checked my Pittsburgh torque wrench, it has been as accurate as anyone's---just my personal experience, your mileage may vary.....Dan
So how do you check your torque wrench? You have calibration equipment?
I have a buddy that has a machine shop and he does....He does all my machine work too. It's been a long relationship and a good one. I also still have a couple of the old flex handle torque wrenches with the pointer and scale on it. I occasionally check the clicker torque wrenches (I have the 3/8, 1/2, and 3/4 clickers) against those as a rough check...Dan
I have one of those powerbuilt digital torque devices to check mine, and I agree with Dan, I've tested my friends pittsburgh torque wrench and it has been as accurate as my snap-on every time.
I have one of those powerbuilt digital torque devices to check mine, and I agree with Dan, I've tested my friends pittsburgh torque wrench and it has been as accurate as my snap-on every time.
Thanks guys then mine should be o.k. it's brand new so I wont worry about that issue anymore.
Robert
another demonstration on why you chase all the threads with a bottom tap before you start assembling the new motor.

this WILL be on the semester test!!

class dismissed.

:poke:
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