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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
O.K. I just bought a crate 350/260 hp "DAILY DRIVER MOTOR"
Here's what I bought. Total price delivered $1463.96 I just ordered it so if there's some reason this is wrong let me know quick to cancel please.





GM Performance #809-10067353


GM Goodwrench 350 Engine
Was: $1,499.99
Now: $1,449.99Ships Monday






brand new block and can be used as a replacement for most GM vehicles from 1973-85. It produces 260 HP and 350 ft/lbs of torque with a 4-bbl carb and headers. It can be used as a replacement or as a retrofit into almost any vehicle. This brand new 350 crate engine comes with a GM warranty and is covered for 3 years or 100,000 miles in applicable GM vehicles only. JEGS has the GM Goodwrench, Chevy 350 engine for sale at a great price!
350 Engine Specifications-bolt main with 2-piece rear main seal
Cast iron crankshaft
LT1/LT4 powdered metal connecting rods
Cast pistons (dished)
Hydraulic flat tappet cam (.383''/.401'' and 112° lobe separation)
Cast iron cylinder heads with 76cc chambers
8.5:1 compression ratio
Block is compatible with left or right side oil dipstick (Requires Plug for Unused Side - Plugs are Included)
4-quart oil pan
Timing tabs for a 6-3/4'' or an 8'' balancer
Recommended spark plug: Accel #111-574 or any spark plug with 14mm .460'' reach, 5/8'' hex, tapered seat, projected tip
JEGS





This universal 350 ci engine uses a Easy Kits are designed by the

In the truck now is a 1987 305 1-peace rear seal and the new motor is a 2-piece rear seal so I was told I'm going to need to change the flex plate but we will get to that later.
I have never done an engine swap and this project is just that a swap not a conversion with blower cut the hood and get a new set of center lines. Sorry to burst your bubble.:poke:

I have all the time in the world but when I start it's till the truck starts. I will take a week off once I have all the new parts needed. What I need to know now is what I need and there's what I got .
For tools my friend has a hoist and time to help me but has never replaced a motor by himself but he does have two hands and no job .
I have a good set of sockets with breaker bar with swivel and other basic tools. I will buy a tork wrench I have the Haynes complete tear down with pic's. and all the specifications needed to tork down and You tube and of course the best of the best YOU.
Any special tools I need? Lets start here first then once I have the info then I will start asking about the motor.
Thanks
Robert



















This universal 350 ci engine uses a Easy Kits are designed by the
 

· ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Cool purchase! Looks like someones tryna step the power up!:beer:
DON'T START THIS IS A "DAILY DRIVER SWAP":poke:

When I first joined I was thinking about doing this and I started a thread just like this DAILY DRIVER before the day was over I was confused and had about $10,000.00 worth of Texas Hot Rod Equipment under the hood.:texas: That's how I met the Triple "D"


 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That's a great starter hot rod engine! You can stay with a basic driver set-up with good performance or equip this power plant burn the road. You can't go wrong with this small block.


Thanks
I never done this so I need to start with is there any special tools I will need? I have the basic breaker bar good socket set hoist will get tork wrench and a friend out of a job willing too help but never did a swap by himself and I will take a week or so off till it starts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
:poke:be sure to protect that Nice new paint job!

It's going back for a complete re-paint they went to quick and by the time they fix what's wrong Hector said he'd just shoot it again so I can wait on the paint till after the swap .
Thanks
Robert
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
A GM oil pump priming tool, cheap insurance. (think JEGS carries them)

How are your motor mounts?

You are going to have a fun project going here... :beer:
Yes that's why I'm starting with tools and once I have that info I will move on to all the motor parts I will need. I don't want to get overloaded all at once that's why I need to know about the tools first please. I want this to be fun and have all my ducks in a row so I'm not running all over town trying to find something that was forgot. I did this with my complete swap of all the under the hood A/C parts and with everybody and especially Mike's help everything was there and ran smooth and running correct still to date on the first attempt. :nanawrench:
Thanks
Robert


As were going along almost every thing under the hood on my 305 is new except the oil pump fuel pump water pump and distributer. Anything else if I can see it it's been replaced in the last year with a 4-row and new fan clutch in my parts room (spare bedroom I'm not involved with any women or thinking of it in the near future unless it drops from the sky.) Sorry didn't mean" it " SHE.!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Will a different flexplate be need for this swap? I have an 86' and I know it has the 1 piece rear main seal like your 87'. I have contemplated this swap myself
Yes I will need a new flex plate but i'm not to that point yet I'm still on special tools needed before I get into under the hood or I will be so confused it won't be a good thing so i'm taking down tools now. I'm sure this thread will help other members because the questions haven't even started yet.

If I leave someone out don't get offended I'm trying to focus on one thing at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hey Robert, you'll need a set of metric and sae wrenches. Lowe's carries the Kobalt brand and they are fairly inexpensive and a good quality tool. I have the combination open end/box end set of both. Get some extra long screwdrivers or pry bars too. It hard to tell you everything you'll need so there will be things that you have to make a trip to the store for. Unless you do this for a living its impossible to know what you'll need. Get a good creeper too if you have a concrete slab to work on. Plenty of rags and hand cleaner. So how many miles are on the 305 now? Mine just rolled over to 308,000 and still only a small puff of white smoke when I start it.
I have most of the tools you posted here or at work two blocks away. I'm not sure on the exact milage but I got you beat. The engine purrrrs and starts cold on the first crank but for the price Jegs is offering I don't think it's coming around again anytime soon. $1463.96 to my door. Tax and standard frt. would be another $350.00 or so. Do you think I could have waited and got a better deal with a 3-year or 100,000 mile warranty included?
And thanks Mike for the tool info if you can think of any others not today let me know.


I shipped the headlight besel's the next day ups with some shirts so you may have them Monday Tues. at the latest.:texas:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Here's what I have covered on tools so far.
SAE/METRIC WRENCHES AND SOCKETS./AND RATCHET CLOSED END WRENCHES
EXTRA LONG SCREWDRIVERS
PRY BARS/BREAKER BAR
SLEDEGE HAMMER:poke:
GEEKE HEADBAND FLASH LIGHT
CREAPER GOOD QUALITY
FENDER PROTECTORS
TELESCOPING MAGNET WITH MIRROR


KEEP THE SPECIAL ONES COMING I WANT TO BE SET UP THE BEST I CAN.

Thanks everyone:You_Rock:

 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
When I did my 350 swap I had to change my exhaust manifold on the passenger side to a drop down style. Just not quite enough room for the stock exhaust.

In my other thread from this morning I asked if there was going to be any problems and the response was just the flex plate. Is there something I should know or cancel this motor and buy a turn key when needed i'm not a mechanic or want to have to buy anything different than what's on my 305 unless I want to.

Please if i'm getting into something else than the difference in the flex plate issue let me know so I can cancel this motor before it ships. The only reason I bought the motor now was of the price. I really don't need it yet!!!!!!! I want to use my rebuilt quad. and ECM. Is there any issues with it working correctly on this 350? Exhaust manifolds stated above? what else I thought in my other thread this was a everything fits




from the 305 to the 350 also it states that the engine fits up to the 85 not 87 but was told no problem just
the flex plate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
bump
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Note also, there may actually be a market for the smog things you are pulling out/off the 305. Be careful and save them then stick them on CL and see what happens.
So none of my smog and every sensor hose etc. is new isn't going to work on this new motor correct? That's why I asked these questions in the beginning why is everything all of a sudden changing? What else from my 305 won't fit on this 350. It's starting to sound like this motor is going into my stock room till mine dies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
My rebuilt 350 is going in this week and since we reside in California I am re-using all the smog crap. Should still be an awesome motor!:beer: RTT
I may have to take a ride down and see yours. Was the original a 350 or 305?
Robert


 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Are you planning on re-using your existing manifold? Were the heads on your 305 topped with center bolt style valve covers? The heads on your crate have perimeter style bolts around the valve covers. The four center bolts on your existing intake will not line up properly with the perimeter style heads.

Here's what I have on the 305

exhaust manifold


i

intake manifold









 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
O.K. I JUST CANCELLED THE ENGINE.
With all this info about things not fitting there's no reason to buy a motor then put another $2000.00 by the time it's running. Is this an engine I can use all my parts if I want to without having to modify anything!!!!!? My computer /carb. manifolds intake and exhaust will bolt right up to this new engine? my transmission will bolt right up? etc. Everything must interchange for me to do this. Can anybody confirm this for sure. I'm not trying to be an ass like it sounds but this morning with the motor I put on order I had plenty of responses and all I saw was that I would need to change the flex plate. Then all of a sudden I'm here and it sounds like almost nothing not even the smog equipment will fit. I don't understand how this happened with all the early reponses it sounded like a piece of cake. Lets try again if it's O.K. with you. This one says pre-emissions ?
Thanks for all the input.
Robert



GM Performance #809-12499529

GM Performance Parts 350 Engine
$1,979.99Ships Monday
If you find a lower price on a item we will match it
The priced matched item includes "to your door" costs

How to Price Match












GM Performance 12499529 - GM Performance Parts 350 Engine & Package Details



Crate Engine

This engine does not include intake manifold, ignition distributor, harmonic balancer, flexplate/flywheel, starter, water pump, fuel pump, and spin-on oil filter adapter.






This 350 is GM Performance Parts value-leading crate engine, with 290 horsepower @ 5100 RPM, and 326 ft/lbs of torque @ 3750 RPM on 87 octane fuel. Its power will provide great durability with a 4-bolt mains, PM steel rods, and strong cast aluminum pistons. The camshaft has .450" intake and .460" exhaust lift with hydraulic flat tappets. The cast iron cylinder heads have 1.94" intake and 1.50" exhaust valves with 76 cc combustion chamber. The heads have the conventional 12-bolt intake manifold attaching design used from 1955 through late 1980. This 350 engine is not intended for marine use, and should be used in 1979 or earlier pre-emissions street vehicles or any off-road usage.
SpecificationsHorsepower: 290 @ 5100 RPM
Torque: 326 ft/lbs @ 3750 RPM
Max Rec. RPM: 5100 RPM
Compression Ratio: 8.5:1
Heads: Cast Iron 76 cc Chamber - 1.94 Intake valve/1.5 Exhaust valve
Camshaft Lift: .450 Intake /.460 Exhaust
Flat Tappet Duration @ .050" (222°Int/222° Exh)
Lifters: Flat Tappet
Connecting Rods: Powdered Metal
Block: 4-bolt main
Pistons & Pins: Aluminum
Crankshaft: Cast Iron Nodular, 3.480" Stroke
Rocker Arm: 1.5
Ignition Timing: 34° BTDC total advance
Fuel: 87 octane
Engine Components Package #809-12499529K3

Includes GM Goodwrench engine and the following products to make your new engine run!
Edelbrock Performer intake manifold
Edelbrock Performer 600cfm carb
Mr. Gasket intake gaskets
ARP intake bolts
Proform chrome valve covers, chrome wing nuts, chrome dipstick
Jegs HEI distributor
Jegs HEI coil
GM recommends the use of an melonized distributor gear (037-10456413)GM Warranty
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
It's not going to be just (plug and play), your going to have some bolts and parts that just won't want to come off. Your going to have some that simply won't fit. You've got to adapt and over come!! You can do it. patient will be your best tool, followed by us and then the internet. Most all your stuff on the 305 will work on the 350, including all the smog stuff I know you have to run in California.
All of us would like to have everything ready but even shops have to go get stuff.
You said you'll have a week to do it, I don't see why you can't get it done.
My only question is if you say there is nothing wrong with your current motor and you want to stay pretty much stock on your new motor, then why change?
Don't fix something that aint broke!!
Good luck :nanawrench:
Donny
The only reason was the price it looked to good to pass up. I called last night to cancel and they were going to try it was to late last night. It looks like it's still on order so if it ships that will be my replacement and plenty of time to buy all the new acc.'s for it. So this can still be a fun project without any pressure. I'm going to start looking for another gas stingy car for daily driving and focus on the El Camino as a show truck only. Also to all the members sorry for the panic when I first started the thread I had said I've never done anything like this and when it came down time to get more info all of a sudden nothing fit. I'm not done yet this could turn into a real nice project real quick.

Thanks all:You_Rock:
 

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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Robert, the intake mod is a piece of cake. I did mine with a Dremel. The difference is that the 4 center bolts on your heads now are made to go in almost vertical. On the older style heads they are angled. Once I ground out the holes in the intake , I cut some small pipe to match the angle or the intake and the installed the bolts. It sounds harder that it really is. So one tool you'll need it a Dremel. The flex plate is also easy. There's 6 bolts that attach it to the end of the crank. Just order one from Summit or Jeggs. There's no internal work involved. You've already mentioned getting a torque wrench so let's get this baby going. No fear. Also, I bought the wiper arms from G-boz. He's shipping today. As soon as they arrive I'll send the same box to you with the drivers side arm still in it. Thanks..
Thanks I was freaking last night after all the questions asked before buying the motor the all of a sudden nothing was going to fit. I can see the light again after a couple hrs. of sleep and make this project an all new acc.'s for the motor and take my time till the 305 dies or who knows maybe me first the way it's running now it could go another 300k easy. My compression is correct and when I pull the plugs they always look like the should no oil or build up on the tips just look like they been used.
Robert:texas:
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
My 305 motor is coming out tomorrow and a beast of a built 350 going in. A reputable mechanic re-built my 350 motor for $1000.00. The motor itself cost me $100.00! Has large 2.02 intake and 1.60 exhaust vavles! Mild cam and edelbrock intake. I am keeping the carb and exhaust manifolds. Should be a awesome!
Robert, I will have you come check it out. Should be done by Friday.
RTT:nanawrench:
Are you going to any shows? When we were at OPGI there were flyers about a couple. If so let me know and I will go . Congrat's on the new motor I will have one soon also.:beer:
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
If you can squeeze your way into the engine compartment, a photo of two of the four center bolts (either side will do) on your intake will answer a lot of questions.

Also, a reading of all the numbers on the right cylinder back of the block, just in front of the right hand head, will tell us a lot.

What I'm trying to determine here is if, in fact, you have Vortec heads. If you do, the extra $500 for the Vortec engine would be money well spent.

There's pic's on page one with the numbers but not off the block. It's the standard 1987 305 I bought the truck new in 1988 but it's an 87 FOR SURE they didn't make 88's I don't want to start that issue again.:poke:
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
If the intake and flexplate are what is standing in your way.... I have both from a 85, 305, yes they will fit and the intake is a original factory aluminum smog legal. These will both fit with no mods. Fifty bucks and they are yours. PM me if interested.

I tried to cancel the motor last night but it looks like it maybe coming and that's fine so let me see tonight and if it shipped I will buy yours for sure. I will let you know tonight if it shipped.
Thanks
Robert
 
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