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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Robert, the intake mod is a piece of cake. I did mine with a Dremel. The difference is that the 4 center bolts on your heads now are made to go in almost vertical. On the older style heads they are angled. Once I ground out the holes in the intake , I cut some small pipe to match the angle or the intake and the installed the bolts. It sounds harder that it really is. So one tool you'll need it a Dremel. The flex plate is also easy. There's 6 bolts that attach it to the end of the crank. Just order one from Summit or Jeggs. There's no internal work involved. You've already mentioned getting a torque wrench so let's get this baby going. No fear. Also, I bought the wiper arms from G-boz. He's shipping today. As soon as they arrive I'll send the same box to you with the drivers side arm still in it. Thanks..
Thanks I was freaking last night after all the questions asked before buying the motor the all of a sudden nothing was going to fit. I can see the light again after a couple hrs. of sleep and make this project an all new acc.'s for the motor and take my time till the 305 dies or who knows maybe me first the way it's running now it could go another 300k easy. My compression is correct and when I pull the plugs they always look like the should no oil or build up on the tips just look like they been used.
Robert:texas:
 

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My 305 motor is coming out tomorrow and a beast of a built 350 going in. A reputable mechanic re-built my 350 motor for $1000.00. The motor itself cost me $100.00! Has large 2.02 intake and 1.60 exhaust vavles! Mild cam and edelbrock intake. I am keeping the carb and exhaust manifolds. Should be a awesome!
Robert, I will have you come check it out. Should be done by Friday.
RTT:nanawrench:
 

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If you can squeeze your way into the engine compartment, a photo of two of the four center bolts (either side will do) on your intake will answer a lot of questions.

Also, a reading of all the numbers on the right cylinder back of the block, just in front of the right hand head, will tell us a lot.

What I'm trying to determine here is if, in fact, you have Vortec heads. If you do, the extra $500 for the Vortec engine would be money well spent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
My 305 motor is coming out tomorrow and a beast of a built 350 going in. A reputable mechanic re-built my 350 motor for $1000.00. The motor itself cost me $100.00! Has large 2.02 intake and 1.60 exhaust vavles! Mild cam and edelbrock intake. I am keeping the carb and exhaust manifolds. Should be a awesome!
Robert, I will have you come check it out. Should be done by Friday.
RTT:nanawrench:
Are you going to any shows? When we were at OPGI there were flyers about a couple. If so let me know and I will go . Congrat's on the new motor I will have one soon also.:beer:
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
If you can squeeze your way into the engine compartment, a photo of two of the four center bolts (either side will do) on your intake will answer a lot of questions.

Also, a reading of all the numbers on the right cylinder back of the block, just in front of the right hand head, will tell us a lot.

What I'm trying to determine here is if, in fact, you have Vortec heads. If you do, the extra $500 for the Vortec engine would be money well spent.

There's pic's on page one with the numbers but not off the block. It's the standard 1987 305 I bought the truck new in 1988 but it's an 87 FOR SURE they didn't make 88's I don't want to start that issue again.:poke:
 

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If the intake and flexplate are what is standing in your way.... I have both from a 85, 305, yes they will fit and the intake is a original factory aluminum smog legal. These will both fit with no mods. Fifty bucks and they are yours. PM me if interested.
 

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One last time...the 350/260HP and the 350/290HP ARE THE SAME PRE-85 ENGINES with different cams! You ARE NOT getting VORTEC heads for the extra $500 as was previously mentioned.

That being said it's not that big of a deal to swap out your 305 for either one. Not sure what exhaust manifold you have on the passenger side. Mine has a short spacer with a heat riser (butterfly) valve and then the exhaust mounts to that. I had no problem installing it with my 350.
The 305 and 350 are the same externally. The differences are only internal. Get an engine stand or rent one. They're cheap new. Less than $150 and if you keep it clean sell it after. Install everything you can on the new engine while it's out of the car. Install your old oil pan in place of the new one because your dipstick won't fit the universal either side pan that comes with the new engine. So add oil pan gaskets to the list. Install the fuel pump, water pump, intake, exhaust manifolds, power steering pump, A.I.R. pump (if you have one) alternator, etc. You can leave the fan off. It's not that hard to install in the car and it will give some extra clearance. Plus you don't have worry about bending it if it hits something on the way in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
If the intake and flexplate are what is standing in your way.... I have both from a 85, 305, yes they will fit and the intake is a original factory aluminum smog legal. These will both fit with no mods. Fifty bucks and they are yours. PM me if interested.

I tried to cancel the motor last night but it looks like it maybe coming and that's fine so let me see tonight and if it shipped I will buy yours for sure. I will let you know tonight if it shipped.
Thanks
Robert
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
The flex plate should be fine. I installed the crate 350/330hp on an 85, direct fit for everything,install went smooth as silk.


I have an 87 wont fit but already found the parts if needed
Thanks
Robert
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
One last time...the 350/260HP and the 350/290HP ARE THE SAME PRE-85 ENGINES with different cams! You ARE NOT getting VORTEC heads for the extra $500 as was previously mentioned.

That being said it's not that big of a deal to swap out your 305 for either one. Not sure what exhaust manifold you have on the passenger side. Mine has a short spacer with a heat riser (butterfly) valve and then the exhaust mounts to that. I had no problem installing it with my 350.
The 305 and 350 are the same externally. The differences are only internal. Get an engine stand or rent one. They're cheap new. Less than $150 and if you keep it clean sell it after. Install everything you can on the new engine while it's out of the car. Install your old oil pan in place of the new one because your dipstick won't fit the universal either side pan that comes with the new engine. So add oil pan gaskets to the list. Install the fuel pump, water pump, intake, exhaust manifolds, power steering pump, A.I.R. pump (if you have one) alternator, etc. You can leave the fan off. It's not that hard to install in the car and it will give some extra clearance. Plus you don't have worry about bending it if it hits something on the way in.
O.k. That's the info I needed. already have a lead on the intake and flex plate so next is seeing if nit shipped or canceled. I called late last night and all they could do was pass the message but it shows in process so i'm letting it ride and should know tonight.
Thanks again Bobby simple and to the point.:beer:
Robert


One other thing should I start spraying the bolts now or wait till a couple days before trying to loosen them?
 

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1- like bobby78 said, they are the same engine with different cams and neither are vortec
2- be aware that GM will tell you they are 8.5 to 1 compression, they are ACTUALLY 7.9:1 - i burp more compression than that.

i have the 260hp in my car - installed it in time for 2011 power tour - it runs nice and smooth; never had even a hiccup BUT i'll be pulling that motor and installing 64cc heads to bring the compression up to 9.1 : 1, which will get the power up a bit and still use 87 octane gas.

my 2 cents is you will be money ahead getting the truck motor mentioned by jjlt1 (you'll need elect fuel pump for it)
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 · (Edited)
O.K. I got the other motor canceled and this is what's recommend by JJLT1
jUST WANT TO MAKE SURE THIS IS THE WAY TO GO. For $500.00 more it has the balancer and will I be able to use my intake manifold and exhaust manifolds correct? If so in the long run this would probably be the same price as the 350/260hp after the extra parts that won't fit and need to be replaced correct and should be a bit easier for me to work with I would think except for the fuel pump. IS THERE SOMETHING I SHOULD KNOW BEFORE I PLACE AN ORDER FOR THIS. I need input on any problems that may need looking at before I end up with a motor that's going to be my new display in my growing parts dept. in the extra bedroom.


IS THIS A PROBLEM?


Notes: 4 Bolt mains. Service engine block contains english threads, when used for 2001 vehicles and newer, must also use 2000 model year starter/ transmission/ engine mounting bolts
Warranty:

$1999.00 free shipping no tax

FROM JEGS



Thanks
Robert













GM Performance #809-12530283



Replace that worn out engine with one of these GM engineered 100% brand new engines. These engines are designed by GM as a direct replacement for 1996-2000 GM trucks and vans. Because these engines are manufactured using the latest in high tech computer controlled equipment, General Motors backs them with a Limited 3 Year / 100,000 Mile warranty.
Specifications:

Another Great deal in Vortec engines!

For 3/4 & 1 ton trucks with the heavy duty option



This engine consists of:
  • 1986-2000 style block, 1pc rear seal 4 bolt mains -(No mechanical Fuel Pump Provision)
  • Nodular Iron Crankshaft
  • Powdered Metal Connecting Rods
  • Hypereutectic Pistons
  • 9.4:1 Compression Ratio
  • Roller Camshaft-
  • Specs-
    • Intake Lift- .414"
    • Exhaust Lift-.428"
    • Intake Duration @.050"- 191
    • Exhaust Duration @ .050-196
    • Lobe Centerline-111
  • Vortec Cylinder Heads- 64cc,1.94" intake,1.50" exhaust
Includes: Oil Pan, Timing Cover,Valve Covers and Harmonic Balancer
Applications:
RPO - L31
Fits:
1996 - 2002 Chevrolet Express (G2,3)
1996 - 2002 GMC Savana (G2,3)
1996 - 2000 Chevrolet Pickup (CK2,3)
1996 - 2000 GMC Pickup (CK2,3)
1996 - 2000 GMC Suburban (CK2,3)
1996 - 1999 Chevrolet Chassis (P3)
1996 - 1999 GMC Chassis (P3)
Notes: 4 Bolt mains. Service engine block contains english threads, when used for 2001 vehicles and newer, must also use 2000 model year starter/ transmission/ engine mounting bolts
Warranty:
General Motors limited 3 year / 100,000 parts & labor warranty

 

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Hey Robert, i got the bezels and other items last night. Thanks for the extras.. The bezels are going on today at lunch. As for the engine swap.. is your transmission able to take the extra power? Not sure if you've ever replaced it. When I bought my Monster 200-4r, I got the one rated for up to 400hp and then added ad few other goodies since I pull a trailer alot. Just wondering.:texas:
 

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Robert
I believe two things on this.
1. The engine is a great choice and Jegs is a reliable company
2. There is no such thing as the guaranteed "nothing else needed" you are looking for.

There WILL BE somethings that come up during the swap. Following the path you are by asking all the questions up front will certainly limit them and is a great plan. But doing the swap is also a great deal of FUN ! (although sometimes not while in the midst of it:poke:) and will give loads of satisfaction from a job well done. Why else do you have a personalized hot rod cruck???

Jump in with both feet and lets get-r-done!!! All the guys here will follow along and give all the guidance and help you need. Its gonna be a great time.
 

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IMO this is the better way to go - you not only get the votec heads you want and the balancer but you also get the roller cam. i was a hairs breadth from buying this motor but i didn't want the centerbolt valve covers nor did i want to use an electric fuel pump ....now, with 20/20 hindsight it turns out to be the motor i should've ordered.

i am about to spend $1,000 to get 64cc heads on my current engine so i can still use the new intake manifold i bought with the engine, the new valve covers i bought and retain the mechanical fuel pump and i STILL will not have a roller cam, nor can i retrofit that block for a roller without buying very expensive lifters.

yeah, that's the one i would buy...
 

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I'm not sure if I read that you were keeping your emissions controls or not? If so, you should know that the vortech heads dont have provision for the exhaust heat crossover, so if you have EGR controls mounted to your intake manifold they will NOT function. Later vehicles drew EGR gasses off the exhaust manifold.

I dont know what electric fuel pump you plan on using, some are so loud they are difficult to live with IMO, make sure to do a good job isolating the pump from the frame so vibration noise isnt introduced. Also make sure to get a quality pressure regulator. A regulator with a pressure guage is reccomended so you can be certain what pressure you are running at the carb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Hey Robert, i got the bezels and other items last night. Thanks for the extras.. The bezels are going on today at lunch. As for the engine swap.. is your transmission able to take the extra power? Not sure if you've ever replaced it. When I bought my Monster 200-4r, I got the one rated for up to 400hp and then added ad few other goodies since I pull a trailer alot. Just wondering.:texas:

I never punch it . I'm a daily driver kind of guy the 305 is all I need even a V6 wouldn't bother me. Your welcome hope the bezel's were to your liking they looked pretty clean. For the shirt that's advertising I'm nation wide and like to keep my name out there.

Horseman I know not everything is exact I just don't want any high dollar surprises like the last post for the 260 hp it started with a flex plate and that was fine then all of a sudden after I ordered it more issues popped up. I just want to know what to expect before ordering . I'm not a mechanic and this will all be new to me so I'm trying to do this right the first time and take my time.
ROBERT
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 · (Edited)
I'm not sure if I read that you were keeping your emissions controls or not? If so, you should know that the vortech heads dont have provision for the exhaust heat crossover, so if you have EGR controls mounted to your intake manifold they will NOT function. Later vehicles drew EGR gasses off the exhaust manifold.

I dont know what electric fuel pump you plan on using, some are so loud they are difficult to live with IMO, make sure to do a good job isolating the pump from the frame so vibration noise isnt introduced. Also make sure to get a quality pressure regulator. A regulator with a pressure guage is reccomended so you can be certain what pressure you are running at the carb.

This engine will have to pass smog for sure so this engine is not going to work?


NO DISRESPECT BUT CALIFORNIA SUCKS!!!!!!!!!! I SHOULD HAVE STAYED IN MONTANA





O.K. NOW I'm PISSED OFF NOT AT ANYBODY HERE THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP. I'm GOING TO START A NEW THREAD IN REGION 18
WHAT MOTOR CAN I BUY THAT WORKS IN CALIFORNIA AND GO FROM THERE OR I'M GOING TO GET STUCK WITH SOMETHING I CAN'T USE.
THANKS AGAIN AND I STILL NEED ALL YOUR INPUT IN THE NEW THREAD.:nanawrench:
 
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