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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's the motor that's coming.

http://www.jegs.com/p/GM-Performance/GM-Goodwrench-350-Engine-Packages-1973-1985/752506/10002/-1

I was wondering I'm going to use all new parts on this motor so do they offer a standard bolt package to install all my stuff? Same with a gasket kit? If not what brand if any bolts or grade should I be looking for? My Hayne's book shows all the bolt sizes and threads and for gaskets I have seen lots of post about not using Mr. Gasket? This next step is to have all this ready as I go shopping for deals on pumps starters etc. but I will ask those questions later. One thing at a time is the only way I can remember and not get confused.
Any help would be great. I don't need the top of the line unless it's a must but I sure don't to buy anymore of the crap they throw on the counter just by the type of motor you have and me not knowing the quality and so far it's all been crap.:beer:

Thanks
Robert

just looking in the book and they show all the bolt identification's grade's and torque but do they offer a kit?
 

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Robert,
This is off subject, but considering the high quality of your Elky you might consider applying POR15 engine paint to the new motor.

Comes in several colors and can be brushed on the block and flows out beautifully.

And seems to be bullet proof.

Just a thought.

Arnie in Iowa
 

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If you know the sizes, just go down to an industrial supply with lots of bolt bins, and buy Grade 5. Grade 8 is too brittle for most applications and $$$ of overkill.

I Never reuse bolts, they are inexpensive to replace but expensive when broken! I toss all the used ones in a box under the bench for others to have fun with :eek:)

Here is a link to my new 350's First Start! Just Completed it for my 84..
I built a 9:1 with a nice little cam for the street:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=POolVcvMfWM&feature=youtu.be

Will be going crazy on the 302 for my 69 :eek:)
 

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If you know the sizes, just go down to an industrial supply with lots of bolt bins, and buy Grade 5. Grade 8 is too brittle for most applications and $$$ of overkill.

I Never reuse bolts, they are inexpensive to replace but expensive when broken! I toss all the used ones in a box under the bench for others to have fun with :eek:)

Here is a link to my new 350's First Start! Just Completed it for my 84..
I built a 9:1 with a nice little cam for the street:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=POolVcvMfWM&feature=youtu.be

Will be going crazy on the 302 for my 69 :eek:)
Did i see a glass filter...:dontknow:
 

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350 build

I found this article in Chevy High Performance Magazine. It is written by Kevin McClelland. I would do this. I throughly believe in his advice.

Simple Crate

I have a daily driver ’87 El Camino with a tired 305. I’d like to put a crate 350 in it. Nothing radical, just a stocker with maybe 200-250 hp. It also must pass California smog. I remember reading an article (four to five years ago) about a crate motor with an Edelbrock manifold, carb, and a 305 cam, but I no longer have the magazine. Any suggestions? Thanks,
Doug Cole
Via email
Doug, for a simple crate 350 engine swap we recommend going with a factory GM Goodwrench crate engine. GM has been offering this engine forever. They were originally called the Target Master Crate engine and were renamed when GM started branding itself Goodwrench. GM has built millions of these engines over the years, and we’ve used them for truck and passenger car replacement engines, and whipped them on the dyno for run after run, without even a whimper. Give our good friend Ken Casey a call at the new John Elway Chevrolet (800.345.5744) for pricing and freight for a 350 Goodwrench engine (PN 10067353). This is a direct replacement engine for ’71-85 applications. This will drop right into your ’Elco and all you’ll need to pick up is a standard-balance 153-tooth flexplate (PN 471529). Yes, you will need to truck the engine out from Colorado, but Casey is very competitive with his pricing, we’re guessing under $2,000 for a brand-new engine. All this and a factory warranty on the engine for two years and 50,000 miles!
As you said, you had a story of a crate with a simple camshaft swap and manifold. We’d go with an Edelbrock Performer EGR manifold (PN 3701), and the matching camshaft (PN 3702). This camshaft shaft specs out at 194/214 duration at 0.050-inch tappet lift, 0.396/0.442-inch max lift, and is ground on 112 centers. You will notice that this is a very short camshaft. It was originally developed back in 1985 to work in the LG4 305s, which were computer controlled. Oh yeah, that’s the engine that’s in your ’Elco. This camshaft will work in concert with your factory computer calibration and pass emissions in the state of California. The short nature of this camshaft will produce great throttle response and make outstanding slow-speed torque. The engine will make strong power to 5,000 rpm and produce about 250 hp through the stock exhaust manifolds and cat.
If you wish to step up to headers, you could also add the Edelbrock TES system, which is emissions legal in California and will boost your peak horsepower on this package by around 20 hp. The TES system for your LG4 305-equipped El Camino is PN 68783. This kit will bolt right in to your El Camino’s factory 21/4-inch catalytic converter. If you wish to step up the exhaust to the high-flow Corvette four-bolt–style converter, go with PN 68793. This, in conjunction with a nice after-cat exhaust, will round out your emissions-legal engine swap nicely.
We know this engine won’t turn the world with its sheer power, but it will give you a great daily driver that will get decent gas mileage and produce over 100 hp more than the stock 305! This will make a big difference in the fun factory with your ’Elco. Good luck! CHP
Sources: edelbrock.com, elwaydealers.com
:yell:
__________________
Original owner. "04" LS1.Built 4L60E. GN 8.5 3.73's. Eaton posi. Dual 2.5 Tubes,"H"pipe & Flowmaster 50's.Full SC&C suspension.C-5 brakes. Electric antenna. Zinc plated Spurving bearings. C.A.R.B approved:yell:
 
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· ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I found this article in Chevy High Performance Magazine. It is written by Kevin McClelland. I would do this. I throughly believe in his advice.

Simple Crate

I have a daily driver ’87 El Camino with a tired 305. I’d like to put a crate 350 in it. Nothing radical, just a stocker with maybe 200-250 hp. It also must pass California smog. I remember reading an article (four to five years ago) about a crate motor with an Edelbrock manifold, carb, and a 305 cam, but I no longer have the magazine. Any suggestions? Thanks,
Doug Cole
Via email
Doug, for a simple crate 350 engine swap we recommend going with a factory GM Goodwrench crate engine. GM has been offering this engine forever. They were originally called the Target Master Crate engine and were renamed when GM started branding itself Goodwrench. GM has built millions of these engines over the years, and we’ve used them for truck and passenger car replacement engines, and whipped them on the dyno for run after run, without even a whimper. Give our good friend Ken Casey a call at the new John Elway Chevrolet (800.345.5744) for pricing and freight for a 350 Goodwrench engine (PN 10067353). This is a direct replacement engine for ’71-85 applications. This will drop right into your ’Elco and all you’ll need to pick up is a standard-balance 153-tooth flexplate (PN 471529). Yes, you will need to truck the engine out from Colorado, but Casey is very competitive with his pricing, we’re guessing under $2,000 for a brand-new engine. All this and a factory warranty on the engine for two years and 50,000 miles!
As you said, you had a story of a crate with a simple camshaft swap and manifold. We’d go with an Edelbrock Performer EGR manifold (PN 3701), and the matching camshaft (PN 3702). This camshaft shaft specs out at 194/214 duration at 0.050-inch tappet lift, 0.396/0.442-inch max lift, and is ground on 112 centers. You will notice that this is a very short camshaft. It was originally developed back in 1985 to work in the LG4 305s, which were computer controlled. Oh yeah, that’s the engine that’s in your ’Elco. This camshaft will work in concert with your factory computer calibration and pass emissions in the state of California. The short nature of this camshaft will produce great throttle response and make outstanding slow-speed torque. The engine will make strong power to 5,000 rpm and produce about 250 hp through the stock exhaust manifolds and cat.
If you wish to step up to headers, you could also add the Edelbrock TES system, which is emissions legal in California and will boost your peak horsepower on this package by around 20 hp. The TES system for your LG4 305-equipped El Camino is PN 68783. This kit will bolt right in to your El Camino’s factory 21/4-inch catalytic converter. If you wish to step up the exhaust to the high-flow Corvette four-bolt–style converter, go with PN 68793. This, in conjunction with a nice after-cat exhaust, will round out your emissions-legal engine swap nicely.
We know this engine won’t turn the world with its sheer power, but it will give you a great daily driver that will get decent gas mileage and produce over 100 hp more than the stock 305! This will make a big difference in the fun factory with your ’Elco. Good luck! CHP
Sources: edelbrock.com, elwaydealers.com
:yell:
__________________
Original owner. "04" LS1.Built 4L60E. GN 8.5 3.73's. Eaton posi. Dual 2.5 Tubes,"H"pipe & Flowmaster 50's.Full SC&C suspension.C-5 brakes. Electric antenna. Zinc plated Spurving bearings. C.A.R.B approved:yell:

You just maid my life a lot easier and took a load off my mind about his project. You just answered just about everything up to my taking out the old and dropping in the new. Sure you don't have an article on that too?:poke::You_Rock:

O.k. how about a brand of gasket if anyone knows of a quality mfg. or use the ones that come with the units?



Thanks everyone else also:beer:

Robert

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Robert,
This is off subject, but considering the high quality of your Elky you might consider applying POR15 engine paint to the new motor.

Comes in several colors and can be brushed on the block and flows out beautifully.

And seems to be bullet proof.

Just a thought.

Arnie in Iowa
I have seen post on this over and over and didn't think of it but it would be stupid not to do it right out of the crate.
Thanks Al

My fuel gage is working correctly still so far I trust it but lets see after another tank of gas.:beer:
 

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1966 El Camino
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2,302 Posts
For gaskets I use Fel-pro or victor. Both arte readily available at a NAPA or othert local auto parts place, I've also used Detroit Gaskets with good success. It looks like all you will be needing are;

  1. intake manifold gaskets
  2. exhaust manifold gaskets
  3. water pump gasket
  4. fuel pump gaskets
  5. distributor gasket
  6. carb baseplate
any kit would include more than that so it might be more cost effective to buy them seperately.

I agree with going to the local industrial supply for your bolt needs. I used to be a ARP fanatic, used them everywhere, and they are no doubt a fine product but the cost is 3-4 times that of buying local grade 5 and 8 bolts.
 

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I have seen post on this over and over and didn't think of it but it would be stupid not to do it right out of the crate.
Thanks Al

My fuel gage is working correctly still so far I trust it but lets see after another tank of gas.:beer:

If you use the POR15 engine paint I'd recommend you also order their prep/cleaner to remove any traces of oil or grease prior to painting.

And don't use one of those real cheap brushes as they shed too much.
A decent $4 1" brush works perfectly.

Once applied their engine paint flows out and you would swear it was spray painted.

One last thing...apply the paint liberally but lay it down once and move on.
Too many strokes over the same area will leave trace brush marks.

Arnie in Iowa
 

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i use grade 8 on every bolt i replace that is american and 10.9 in metrics. i stay away from felpro intake gaskets. they are hard and dont comlpy very well.any composition intake gasket will seal better than the felpro blue ones.my favorite ones are engine tech or mr .gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Cool thanks all for the input and not going against each others opinions that just confuses me not knowing what is right or wrong or both right :dontknow:
This should keep me busy for a little bit but anymore input on this is welcome. Now my 305 started running like it's missing but that's in another thread. Who ever I meet in the future BEER'S ON ME.
I don't buy BUD :beer:
Thanks Again
Robert
 

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Ditto on the FilPro for the street...
MrGasket is not what it was in the past...Skip it...Just marketing.

Gentz-Good Eye....Yep, you spotted a "Glass Filter"...
I flushed the tank with solvent, But did not remove it. For the First Start & 20 minute break-in I'll run the Glass filter to see what is going on, then before the hood goes on, I'll drop in a metal wix.
Back in the days of Dual Point distributors I had a Clear cap so that I could hit it with a timing light and see what was going on at 6,000 RPM in my ******* 302 (283 over bore to 4").

CCC- Grade 8 bolts into an Iron Block...Let's think about that for a minute..
A bolt needs to "Stretch" to provide a Clamp...You can't "Stretch" a Grade 8 bolt in a cast iron block, you will pull the threads first! At normal Torque they will come loose without thread lock :eek:(
Stretch is how you use a bolt...that's how connecting rod bolts work...Sorry, but this is one time where a little is good, alot more is bad...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
To have my computer work I need to change the cam. Is that an easy swap with the motor just out of the crate?

Now when I go to order these parts what truck do I use? 1985 El Camino V8 350 260hp?


IS THIS GOING TO BE HARD TO SWAP? Or do I just change the cam only and what am I going to do with the one I take out is it something that would sell or something else to put into my parts stock?


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When changing a cam, it is IMPERATIVE !!! that you keep the lifters and push rods together and back in the same location. However due to your engine being new, I don't know in this situation. Double however, it would not at all hurt to do so, could also be good practice for when you change the cam out on that 502 you are really wanting to drop in! Take a cardboard box like a shoe box and punch some holes in a row around the rim. Label these 1 to 8 just like your engine. As you pull the pushrods, push them into these holes to keep them together. iF YOU HAVE A SPECIAL VERY SAFE PRIVATE PLACE YOU CAN SET A SMALL PAN THAT WONT GET BUMPED OR MOVED, GET A PAN 2" DEEP AND SET YOUR LIFTERS IN IT. FILL IT WITH OIL SO THE LIFTERS FILL WHILE SITTING. whoops, didn't see the caps lock. Sorry. Put the lifters in order.

When putting all the enging together, think in terms of systems and be complete. Think electrical system, exhaust system, fuel system. These systems need to fully work together. Getting a really hot fuel pump without a good filter and regulator will cause problems for instance/ Especially in the ignition system. If you are going to run bigger wires, get a bigger coil and plugs. Be more careful with the bigger coil that your wires are kept separate so they done crossfire. With the engine you are going with, only long tube or longer mid-length headers will give you any difference from stock manifolds. If you install the shorty headers I suspect you will actually hurt your performance. The factory actually does know what it is doing at times!:nanawrench:

Don't go with any larger than 2 1/2" exhaust pipes. 2 1.4 would actually be best.

X2 on the grade 5, and not grade 8, and I too suggest no Mr. Gasket stuff. If you are going to use aftermarket things such as chrome brackets and pulleys, make SURE they are the same. You don't want your fan belts out of line.

Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
When changing a cam, it is IMPERATIVE !!! that you keep the lifters and push rods together and back in the same location. However due to your engine being new, I don't know in this situation. Double however, it would not at all hurt to do so, could also be good practice for when you change the cam out on that 502 you are really wanting to drop in! Take a cardboard box like a shoe box and punch some holes in a row around the rim. Label these 1 to 8 just like your engine. As you pull the pushrods, push them into these holes to keep them together. iF YOU HAVE A SPECIAL VERY SAFE PRIVATE PLACE YOU CAN SET A SMALL PAN THAT WONT GET BUMPED OR MOVED, GET A PAN 2" DEEP AND SET YOUR LIFTERS IN IT. FILL IT WITH OIL SO THE LIFTERS FILL WHILE SITTING. whoops, didn't see the caps lock. Sorry. Put the lifters in order.

When putting all the enging together, think in terms of systems and be complete. Think electrical system, exhaust system, fuel system. These systems need to fully work together. Getting a really hot fuel pump without a good filter and regulator will cause problems for instance/ Especially in the ignition system. If you are going to run bigger wires, get a bigger coil and plugs. Be more careful with the bigger coil that your wires are kept separate so they done crossfire. With the engine you are going with, only long tube or longer mid-length headers will give you any difference from stock manifolds. If you install the shorty headers I suspect you will actually hurt your performance. The factory actually does know what it is doing at times!:nanawrench:

Don't go with any larger than 2 1/2" exhaust pipes. 2 1.4 would actually be best.

X2 on the grade 5, and not grade 8, and I too suggest no Mr. Gasket stuff. If you are going to use aftermarket things such as chrome brackets and pulleys, make SURE they are the same. You don't want your fan belts out of line.

Good Luck!

According to the article above it states simple cam shaft swap. IS THAT FOR THE EXPERENCED MECHANIC ? I don't see them saying to do anything else.:dontknow: on a 305/350 daily driver swap.

Thanks also for the input.
 
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