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ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here's what I've done in the last few days. Plug wires, plugs, rotor, dist. cap, just about every sensor, starter, vacuum hose's, carb. Checked the firing order three times, solenoid twice in one week. Plenty of gas to the carb. Every other electrical device works fine with red top battery even changed it to another I had fully charged just in case. The starter turns over perfect but no spark from the solenoid wire or sparkplug wire with a spark plug attached and a screwdriver to try to see any spark. Here's what I do know the clicking from the automatic choke isn't there when I turn on the key but I do here a single pop or like if you hit a hot wire to metal just with the key on not cranking the starter. checked all the grounds I could find. checked the fuses twice. On the solenoid there's two plugs one black that has to go on first and I'm getting power with the key on to one of the wires. then there's another cream colored plug that slides in next to it and holds the other down but with the key on I'm not getting any power to either wire and I cant try to start the truck see it at the same time but I will tomorrow. I'm trying to tell you everything now so you can get all the facts and get me running before sat. car show with the guys. I installed a power antenna and this started to happen but I disconnected all the wires and grounds to it and rechecked all the fuses. I HAVE A NEW CONDENSOR AND electronic points under the dist. cap but I didn't install them because mine had nice plug connections and the one I got just had flat pieces of metal to somehow mickey mouse the connections a-b-c-d and I didn't see where the condenser went in the dark is it under the dist. by the block ? I did take out the inter wheel well to install the antenna

I just don't know what I'm forgetting and I'm sure it's right in front of me:dontknow::dontknow::dontknow::dontknow::dontknow::dontknow::dontknow::dontknow::dontknow::dontknow::dontknow:
 

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Well lets see,the Pink wire with a single plug,going into the dist,will be your 12v Hot with key on,the wire next to it will be your Tach pick up wire it should be white if not faded ,the red one will/or should have 12v all the time with Key on. looks like you said that you had no 12v at the dist Pink wire batt connection? if not, This comes from your fuse panel should be a 20A fuse ,if yes you have power than, check you coil,and the module, if you have 12v and no spark ,it will be a problem with one of the items in your distributer Assembly . iwill check this post later.:texas:
 

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Double check your connections at the dizzy, (unplug them then plug them back in)
Does your new power antenna work right? Where did you get the power to run it and did you stereo have the wire to tell in to raise when you turned it on?
Also how much stuff did you replace before you found out it wouldn't start?:dontknow:
Donny
 

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ZERO MPG
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15,367 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Double check your connections at the dizzy, (unplug them then plug them back in)
Does your new power antenna work right? Where did you get the power to run it and did you stereo have the wire to tell in to raise when you turned it on?
Also how much stuff did you replace before you found out it wouldn't start?:dontknow:
Donny
Morning I hooked up the antenna by the Haynes diagram in my book. It wasn't hooked up when this started and I disconnected it all just in case it was shorting something. I don't know what I did wrong with the great instructions that came with the antenna but when I turned it on it didn't quit till all the plastic with the teeth was all the way out. It doesn't tell you how to adjust it or if there's a keeper so it can only go so far and stop.


Mr. Fix morning to you.
Do you have any idea why i'm not hearing the choke clicking? wire is there but got to late and I could tell I was getting up tight so walked away before I did something I wouldn't remember and really screw it up. I'm off till Monday and if I can't resolve it say by noon AAA TO THE SHOP. I have just about passed where trying unplugging things I have replaced will just prolong it. Looks like I should make a short video showing what's going on.
Thanks
 

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The antenna should automatically stop at the top and the bottom of it's travel, no adjustment I've ever seen, sounds defective.
And If I understand you correctly, your saying your car wouldn't start BEFORE you even installed the antenna?
Donny
 

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Couple of ideas for you. Get a test light (or a voltmeter/ohmeter if you desire) and test for 12 volts at distributor pink wire with key on.

If 12V is present with key on then the problem is providing power to the distributor?

If 12V is NOT present with key on then the problem is likely the distributor (or the coil contained in the distributor)?

Check to see if the distributor is grounded by applying 12V to the clamp end of test light and then attempting to ground ice pick end onto distributor.

If this circuit does NOT light then you have a bad ground.

If this circuit does light then you have a ground sufficient to light the test light.

Let us know how thee tights work out.
 

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the clicking isnt from your choke its the fuel solenoid in the carb that comes from the ecm,it will tick for about a min then stop if the ecm dosnt see it running. check the fuses to the ecm.even if the ecm is out it will start. you have a ignition coil or module problem if you have power to the pink coil supply wire. i asume you have the later non hei dist set up. if the coil is bad replace the module too,check the pick up coil in the dist with an ohm meter for continuity and grounding short.if that is good and you have power it can only be the coil or module
 

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ZERO MPG
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15,367 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
The antenna should automatically stop at the top and the bottom of it's travel, no adjustment I've ever seen, sounds defective.
And If I understand you correctly, your saying your car wouldn't start BEFORE you even installed the antenna?
Donny
I installed the antenna and it said to put the blue wire to the stereo blue wire which wasn't hooked up to anything and had a tag with antenna on it and the red to hot and of course it didn't work you have to hook it to the orange or yellow wire off the wire harness that's hot with the key on and the red wire to the constant hot wire so that's what I did and it worked fine except when I turned the key on the antenna rod opened but didn't stop until all the tooth plastic cord attached came all the way out. It will be light soon and I will get a video of everything with the tester with sound. Should make it a little easier seeing what I'm talking about.
Any issues I have had with my truck sense I joined has been fixed here with your guys help without taking it to the shop yet and I don't want to start now. NOW I KNOW WHY I WAS BLOWING FUSES WITH THE STEREO ON AND PUSHING IN THE LIGHTER THEY HOOKED THEM BOTH UP TO THE ORANGE WIRE AND WAS PULLING TO MANY AMPS.

I HAVE THE BEST PIT CREW NATION WIDE!!!:You_Rock:
 

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If it turns out it is not any of the electrical problems mentioned above, you would have some of the described issues if your timing belt/chain slipped or skipped a tooth. If it was juust a little bit, one tooth for instance, you can check by rotating your distributor way over one way or the other. Don't run it this way but if it fires off you know where the problem is, Be sure to mark your distributor location before moving it.
 

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ZERO MPG
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15,367 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
If it turns out it is not any of the electrical problems mentioned above, you would have some of the described issues if your timing belt/chain slipped or skipped a tooth. If it was juust a little bit, one tooth for instance, you can check by rotating your distributor way over one way or the other. Don't run it this way but if it fires off you know where the problem is, Be sure to mark your distributor location before moving it.

I will try that after I check the wires. I'm going to pull off the dist. cap when I put the new rotor in it only fits one way over the shaft correct? If I remember it's slotted to only let it sit in the exact place of the one I took off. I really didn't make sure it was exactly in the same spot I don't think it will seat any other way correct? It ran after I did that a week ago then the solenoid went out everything was o.k. but it wasn't idelling real good so I pulled the codes and got a 15 temp. sensor so I replaced it with the purge valve next to it. On the purge valve there's two vacuum hoses connected one goes to the smog pump does that hose go on the top connection or the bottom one .The other hose goes down by the starter to some metal vacuum switch. That doesn't effect the truck not firing but it needs to be right. I'm out the door to the truck now with the camera be back.
Thanks
 

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ZERO MPG
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15,367 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I got it the first thing I did was take off the dist. cap and the rotor wasn't seated down all the way. Nothing like working in the dark. My mistake in my older years I have learned check first and do it right. I guess I fell off the wagon not paying attention so I wasted your time and mine I should have been prepping my truck for the car show tomorrow now I'm two days behind. To get it done I think this time it's o.k. to drink massive quantities of beer to be ready for tomorrow.


http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9FgSSWAiWb4/0.jpg
 

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After re-reading your original post, I would focus your attention on the distributor. If it is a large cap, with the coil in the cap, check to make sure the ground strap is on the coil. It's common to leave it out.

Also check to be sure the electronic module is connected to the cap( larger 2-wire plug that goes into the cap just behind the power and tach wires. Lastly, is the 4-wire connector attached to the distributor?

On the starter, there is a wire that connects to one of the posts on the solenoid. I think that is the wire you are talking about. That wire supplies 12V to the solenoid to make it engage when you turn the key. You won't see 12V on that wire unless the key is turned. If the starter is turning over, then that wire is fine. You should have a couple of red wires that attach to the big lug onthe starter where the heavy duty cable attaches. Those wires supply power to the rest of the car, and have fuseable links in them for protection. It sounds like you have power to everything else, but worth checking just to be sure.
 

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So I take it that you are up and running again!! Hallelujah!! It does make you frustrated when you work on something till the wee hours of the morning and find that it doesn't work and when you go back and look fine something simple.:poke:
 
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