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Discussion Starter #1
64 Elco with a (suspected) 69 305ci. Getting at best about 2 seconds of crank then nothing. Usually just get a click, sometimes nothing. Maybe 1 out of 50 tries it will start. Replaced starter, solenoid, positive battery cable, alternator (probably unrelated). Battery good and have been keeping it charged. Have new ignition switch ordered. Beyond that, I can't think of what else to check. Really hoping the ignition switch does the trick, but if not... any suggestions?
 

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Check the ignition switch where it mates to the ignition harness behind the dash. Sometimes they work apart or the wires wiggle loose.
Patrick
 

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Thanks for the responses. I had already ordered a new neutral safety switch... just popped that in... no help. Not sure where the fusible link would be but it sounds like something that would be either good or bad and my issue is intermittent. Where should I look for that? I just replaced the dash face a couple of weeks ago and I think the switch connections are good but will double check. New ignition switch hopefully arriving tomorrow... that's next (and the only other thing I can think of). Thanks again guys!
 

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The fusible link is usually down by the starter. It's a wire that is smaller than the wire it's connected with.
 

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I had a66 Chevelle. It had a problem with the harness plug on the firewall engine side near the steering column. Front harness so lotsa wires.
 

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welcome D
your missing some testing..
try a remote starter button..

is the battery ground on the block ??

get a meter and see where the power is missing..

being intermittent,
it sounds like a bad connection between the battery, ign switch, and starter solenoid,,
including any wiring connections, bulkhead connector, neutral switch, ign switch..

the fusible links on a ~64-ish are at the battery and horn relay buss bar..
if it hasn't been changed ??
 

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Thanks JJ for your information on the fusible link. I apologise, detorres53, for my mistake on its location.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hat Trick: Attached is a pic of the harness plugs I think you mentioned. Look pretty ugly and original. Was able to get one disconnected... brushed the terminals on both ends with no change in start. Given their condition I think they should probably be replaced.
JJ: Good thoughts. Second pic is of the driver front corner. ID on the two cubes... larger one voltage regulator? Smaller one to the upper left some sort of relay? Worth checking/replacing? Battery grounded to exhaust manifold. I tested to a lug on the block with no change. Is it best to keep it grounded to block?
20200731_165604.jpg
20200731_165459.jpg
 

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x2
first pick is the Bulk Head Connector..
the big cube is the Voltage Regulator..
smaller one is the Horn Relay, with the Buss-Bar..
relayhorn.jpg
that's the main power, except the starter battery cable..
charge wire to the battery, and power to the cab- ign switch, fusebox, light switch..

yours wont have the pink/black for the Key-In buzzer, that's 69-up..

heres some 66 wirein pics,, should be close to a 64..
may be a connection at the junction block by the battery too..
66-1 elky wiring.jpg 66-2 wiring.jpg 66-3 wiring.jpg
 

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That's assuming the starter solenoid is good. Wouldn't be the first time I've bought something that's 'brand new' yet bunk. You can try leaving the key in 'run' position and shorting the terminals, bypassing the solenoid. That'd possibly eliminate the starter itself as an issue, then apply direct power from the battery to the + terminal etc and work your way back towards the ignition switch.

Do you have a good/reliable ground from block to battery?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update: It's starting! Anticipating delivery of the new ignition switch, I dropped the switch from the panel. Upon receipt I realized I had ordered the part the key goes into and not the actual switch. But in the process of reinstalling I pushed all the connectors back into the switch pretty firmly and bingo! Maybe I had a bad connection there all along (I did switch out my dash panel so the switch was removed and reinstalled). Several test starts later, seems like I'm good on this issue. Now on to my next problem... Powerglide isn't shifting into all the positions (column components, not tranny issue). Will start a new thread to get some ideas. Thanks all for your input!
 
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