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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I had my 81 El Camino repainted I ordered original factory rubber window/door moulding. The darned things leak air and the noise is driving me up the wall!

Any suggestions on how to test for where the leaks are and FIX them?

Also considering doing some sound proofing in the doors and maybe even replace the original carpet [after 30 years!] and sound proofing the floor at the same time.

Any suggestions greatly appreciated!

 

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Rolls the windows all the way up. Take a piece of paper and hold it folded over the glass, close the door and see if it has a slight grip on the paper. Work your way all the way around. Where the paper has no grip on it is where your wind noise is. If you really get picky keep narrowing the paper.
 

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Sit in the car and go through a drive through car wash, you'll find it that way!!!:poke:
Good luck.
Donny
 

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I had the same problem and here's how I attacked it.

Step one - align the door / glass to fit as close to the weatherstripping as possible while stil being able to shut the door without a lot of force. This may involve adjustment of several attachment points, both of the entire door and of the glass itself.

For the lower part of the door (i.e. the actual door, not the glass): in a dark garage/space, put a bright light inside the car, pointing to the door's edge (you may need to move it along the edge in increments) - where you can see light coming through from the outside, you know that's where the leaks are. I purchased some generic, relatively thick and flexible weathestripping, applied it in those areas and, presto, problem solved.

For the window itself, if it's not already visible to the naked eye where leaks exist, as you're driving, feel with your hand along the edge of the window. Press the weatherstripping firmer against the window; if the wind noise goes away, you'll know that's where you have the issue.

You may need a different weatherstrip - there is apparently quite some variety in quality and fit, sometimes even between batches of the same product by the same manufacturer. Compared to the discomfort, the cost and hassle of trying different ones, in the end, is probably worth it.

By the way, I use the same trick-with-the-light to locate and close any small holes in the firewall (where cables pass through etc). Anywhere that light, and thus air, can go through, noise comes along with it and plugging these holes, no matter how small, has a big impact on interior noise.

Good luck with the fix.
 

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Rolls the windows all the way up. Take a piece of paper and hold it folded over the glass, close the door and see if it has a slight grip on the paper. Work your way all the way around. Where the paper has no grip on it is where your wind noise is. If you really get picky keep narrowing the paper.
Good idea!

Note that, on my car, the window will 'sit' / 'settle' differently depending on whether I close the door first, then roll up the window, or close the door with the window already rolled up. This may be because my weatherstripping is still brand new, but in any event the window seals perfectly when I do the second method, not the first. Just something to check for also.
 

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I have plenty of post on sound proofing the interior. I had one nice video but it's gone so here's some others and there's more in my photo bucket. Other members got smart and didn't blow all their hard earned cash on name brand materials. this is Peel & seal 25 ft x 6" rolls $16.75 and anti-fatigue matting 1ft x3ft @3.29 at Lowe's. You can do the interior for around $100.00 or less. I probably spent a little bit more but it's really quiet inside mine and the stereo sounds a lot better. Other members have used it and not a single complaint yet and never will be. Before putting this down make sure everything is up to snuff I had to use pliers to peel some off a month later. Put new window motors first if your smart and if you do it like my videos take the window glass out and it will save you a lot of time and scratches.



click on pictures below for videos







 

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Sit in the car and go through a drive through car wash, you'll find it that way!!!:poke:
Good luck.
Donny

The TRIPLE"D" AND 464 KNOW THEIR STUFF. I have used their advice and usually the problem is fixed the first time.:texas::beer::secret:
 

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If you end up adjusting this may help. Test is not very clear but . . . .
 

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If you end up adjusting this may help. Test is not very clear but . . . .
http://i518.photobucket.com/albums/u349/nsstringer/84elky/P1010114.jpg


I'm having a problem with that rubber stop at the top of the window frame that holds the glass tight. I tried adjusting the two bars with the felt when the window is up but that holder keeps my window from closing correct. if i push it with the window up it pops in but i can't bend it just a little. what do you think?
 

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make sure the window guide in the top corner of the windshield post wasnt left out.also check the plastic guide block riveted to the window isnt broken.it helps keep the window pulled in when all the way up.its riveted to the window around the lock rod area
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Good Info - Good Forum!

Thanks for such solid advice replies to my original post!

This has been an issue for a while and I really appreciate the quality feedback.

I also have an 86 Chrysler Le Baron Mark Cross Special Turbo [FUNATIC] that is quite modified and is really fun to drive and participate on the TD Turbo Dodge
forums. I am just now getting to know the El Camino forum here.



My El Camino [FUNAGLE] is an 81 that I bought from a buddy in 82.

It has ever since been a timeless friend.

 

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On my last car that I replaced the weatherstripping on, I took off the door panel and rolled the window up. Close the door with a dollar bill between the glass and weatherstrip. I adjust the glass so that it is hard to pull out the dollar bill all around the window. Reassemble with the door panels on and double check using the dollar bill. The reason I like to use a dollar bill is that it won't tear as easily as regular paper.
suks2bu37:nanawrench::nanawrench:
 

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Ah, but you see, there's the problem.

I wish someone would just give us a step-by-step guide on adjusting these windows. "In and out here" just doesn't tell me much.
 

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Just wanted to say thanks for this thread. I just installed one-piece windows in my '71 along with a bunch of sound proofing per HKDUP's method. It was my first time to mess with roll-up windows, so the conversion was pretty tricky, but I eventually got it.

But I've been having some wind noise too and didn't know how to test for it. I'm definitely trying the paper/dollar bill method as soon as I can.


Thanks!

-Steffen
 
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