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Discussion Starter #1
I bent the rod that goes to the z-bar from the pedal. I think I've had enough:let_it_all_out:. I tried to adjust the linkage and get a better feel for the clutch, an then all hell went loose. Push the pedal in an whamo bent the rod...
My answer to this is going to a hydraulic clutch setup. I know there out there. Just who's got one for a T-5 non world class. Anyone with the answers I thank you..:beer:
 

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Matt I have a 92 - 94 Camaro T5 bellhousing with the slave cylinder boss on it if you need it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well thats just a bumer!!!:let_it_all_out:
Wish I could help!!!
Donny
Thanks Donny

They have set ups for most every thing !!
http://www.thedrivenman.com/gm/transmissions/clutch-link-kit.html
I called American power train. I think they are the same company



DixieMonteCarlo has the rod if you're looking to replace it until you can go hydraulic...
http://www.dixiemontecarlodepot.com/Product/Detail.aspx?s=DM90812&d=147&p=1
thanks, I need the spherical rod link on mine. That's what took a dump on me. Adjust it out to far and the pressure of the clutch bent the threaded part like a pretzel.

Why buy half a set up ,kinda like wiping one side or your :poke:
that's why I'm shopping now. Tired of worrying if I'm going to make it to the car shows. Do it once an do it right :beer: maybe I should listen to myself more often:dontknow:

Matt I have a 92 - 94 Camaro T5 bellhousing with the slave cylinder boss on it if you need it.
thanks Neil, I would have to cut off the boss to have room for the headers. I am looking into a whole new setup from pilot bearing to drive shaft at American drive train. Tremec 5 speed setup with gearing for a 3.73 rear end...
 

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Do you have a real "heavy" clutch in the car? Looks hard to break, no?
 

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have hyd clutch in my f-150 134,000 still fact. never had problem in my racing days trying to get dizzy ran a hyd setup had less problems with it than factory set up.
 

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The geometry on your linkage could be wrong, causing undue strain. Z-bars were around long before high tech friction material made lighter pressure clutches possible. It's a little hard to explain not in person. Picture a linkage on a bar pointing straight up with a rod going sideways to an item to push or pull. At straight up, it has it's most movement & torque. Now rotate this arm to nearly level & it has almost no torque & is binding as it gets to 90 degrees from straight up position.
Now apply this basic mechanical knowledge to you z-bars range of motion & this translates to you may need to adjust rod lengths to both clutch fork AND pedals for optimum range of motion. Rod ends can be used to improve & alter rod length. Also there are different cluch forks & different throw out bearing lengths which cause the same poor geometry type problem in the clutch fork area.
There was a magazine article on clutch geometry you may find by googling.
As far as hydraulics, which I now have, you may want to get the whole factory setup like Neil has along with proper fork & throwout bearing for that application. F-body master cylinders can also be made adjustable lenght arms with a threaded coupler, this is a common f-body mod.
Whatever you do ,DON"T mail order an aftermarket hydraulic bearing from a place like Summit. 3 months after still waiting on mine, I became more knowledgeable on clutch geometry.:poke:
I FEEL YOUR PAIN,but look ahead, stick shifts are cool, especially when combined with exhaust cutouts.
 

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I'm using the spherical joint rods as well. Haven't had any problem with those. I'm with Joe in that bending one of those the geometry has to be off. That is why they make hack sawzalls and welders! LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #16
this is number 2 on the bent spherical joints. As you can see i had to adjust the rod almost to the very end.. CUSS CUSS CUSS...
The geometry seems to be right, the clutch fork is angled toward the engine just a little. Maybe I need a longer push rod?:dontknow:
 

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It looks like the fork may be rubbing the bell from being shoved downward.
the hardest part of my conversion was getting the linkage right. I re-worked it at least three times cutting, lengthening and re-drilling and etc. to get everything pushing straight. The 70's BOP bell housing and fork and the G body did not want to get along. Oh, large tube headers didn't help either.
 

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I bent the rod that goes to the z-bar from the pedal. I think I've had enough:let_it_all_out:. I tried to adjust the linkage and get a better feel for the clutch, an then all hell went loose. Push the pedal in an whamo bent the rod...
If you are adjusting the clutch using the upper rod you are throwing the geometry all out of whack. The upper rod should be about 12" long. Adjustment needs to be made at the lower push rod. If there isn't enough adjustment at that point you will need a longer throwout bearing and/or a longer ball stud. The angle of the lower rod doesn't look right. What bellhousing and fork are you using? Looks like a casting # 14075723 bell with the slave cylinder bracket cut off.
Russ
 

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Discussion Starter #20
If you are adjusting the clutch using the upper rod you are throwing the geometry all out of whack. The upper rod should be about 12" long. Adjustment needs to be made at the lower push rod. If there isn't enough adjustment at that point you will need a longer throwout bearing and/or a longer ball stud. The angle of the lower rod doesn't look right. What bellhousing and fork are you using? Looks like a casting # 14075723 bell with the slave cylinder bracket cut off.
Russ
Yes the bracket was cut off, but as far as the casting I'm not really sure. The trans came from a 92 camaro...
I just recently cut the lower part of the z-bar to make it longer to get the rod straighter to the clutch fork.
So let's see if that works:dontknow:
 
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