El Camino Central Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,714 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm planning to have my car painted next year so i'm saving up now. From some of you that have gotten a GOOD paint job in the last year or two.. what is the average price. There is a little rust below the back window and and just a couple of dings. I want a good drivers quality paint job. Thanks
 

·
Deputy Director Region 18 Participating Member
Joined
·
6,292 Posts
..Are you doing it yourself,or having it done..!?:dontknow:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
671 Posts
4k+ some trading... The car grew up on the east coast for quite some years ! it was in the paint and body shop for 8 months. Actually had everything off but the rear window. But she sure looks good now ! I didn't rush them just told them Do it right ! :texas: oh some motivation :beer: helps too !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
Figure the labor rate per hour,..

I'm planning to have my car painted next year so i'm saving up now. From some of you that have gotten a GOOD paint job in the last year or two.. what is the average price. There is a little rust below the back window and and just a couple of dings. I want a good drivers quality paint job. Thanks
Mike,
As a general rule of thumb any basic paint job starts @ $ 2,200. But first check the labor rates of your local body shops and you can approximate the amount. Here's how; in coastal South Carolina they charge $44./hour,. so using my numbers, 29 to 30 hours for refinish time + 7 to 8 hours for clear coat application and $26./hr. for paint and materials, plus add hazmat fees, and shop materials. Low price in my area = $ 2,600. High end = $ 2,850. This will not include the rear bed paint, any body work, or extra touch-ups. It does include masking all mouldings, bumpers, grille and tire covers. If you want the mouldings, some glass and other emblems removed, the price goes up. You'll have to buy any new decals, or nameplates / emblems that won't come off easy. Locate a shop in your area, ask them the prevailing labor rate and use the above formula. Least you'll have a basic idea,.. - George :nanawrench:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
428 Posts
Mike,
I did a bunch of prep myself, took off all the trim, removed the bumper filler strips, and stripped the paint to metal (not as hard as you might think). The shop then did the smooth out of the "dings", primed it, and painted it, one color, took about a month (they said a couple of weeks). It cost about $2600. Things that I didn't do, that I maybe should have:
didn't have the underside of the hood painted at all, should have painted as car,
left the front fenders on but changed color, probably better to remove front end,
didn't, probably should have, removed the hood hinges, sandblasted, and painted black,
didn't, should have, rebuilt the door hinges.
I'm thinking that a decent driver job depending on prep work might be from a low of $2000 to a real high of $5000, again depending on what you want the shop to do. I wouldn't mask ANY trim.
While you've got the stainless off, if it is really beat up, have a pro rework it, they can make it look new. I've got a guy over by Lake Worth who works wonders.
pm me with any questions, good luck, :beer:
bill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
What's the labor rate there?

Mike,
I did a bunch of prep myself, took off all the trim, removed the bumper filler strips, and stripped the paint to metal (not as hard as you might think). The shop then did the smooth out of the "dings", primed it, and painted it, one color, took about a month (they said a couple of weeks). It cost about $2600. Things that I didn't do, that I maybe should have:
didn't have the underside of the hood painted at all, should have painted as car,
left the front fenders on but changed color, probably better to remove front end,
didn't, probably should have, removed the hood hinges, sandblasted, and painted black,
didn't, should have, rebuilt the door hinges.
I'm thinking that a decent driver job depending on prep work might be from a low of $2000 to a real high of $5000, again depending on what you want the shop to do. I wouldn't mask ANY trim.
While you've got the stainless off, if it is really beat up, have a pro rework it, they can make it look new. I've got a guy over by Lake Worth who works wonders.
pm me with any questions, good luck, :beer:
bill
Bill, While I've got you, what's the body shop labor rate in North Tx., do you know?
George - South Carolina :yell:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
Got it,.. we're @ $44./hr.

George,
Sorry, no clue about N.Texas flat rate for paint/body.
bill
Bill, We are at $44./hour here, but the large cities (Charleston, Columbia, Charlotte, NC etc.), are as high as $47. - $48. per hour. I guess a lot of that expense goes to Paint Booth materials, and paint refinishing related fees. I understand some areas in Calif. charge $60. - $75. an hour,.. ouch ! - George
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
Mine is in shop for a frame on resto. New hinges and new strikers. All gaps reagusted better than left factory. taken down to bare metal never hit thankfully.I paided for all new chrome around bed, window felts even 1/4 windows. Bodywork alone 6500.00. Thats with me buying all new parts bumpers and all even glass. So that depends on how fare you want take it. I have even bought all new glass only kept rear glass. So all new interior from headliner to carpet new door panels,bucket seats new console aftermarket hurst Vmatic 2 i'm looking at around 10'000 dollars. Thats just a guess. I haven't added up recpiets yet. maybe it's best I don't. So to answer you'r question it just depends on how far you want to take it and how deep are you'r pockets Check out pics in photo gallery tittled Lay some gold then stripes to come.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,282 Posts
You are probably going to spend at least $4,000 for something you wouldn't mind being seen in. That's assuming the paint on the car is solid and it doesn't have to be stripped. If the paint is failing, cracked, peeling etc, you will have to add another couple of grand to the price. As Joey said, it depends on what you want. You could spend some less, or a lot more.

I would recommend that you pick the shop you want to do the work, take it to them, explain what you are looking for, and let them price it. You can decide where to add or subtract money to get the results you want.

My best advice to you is don't cheap out. If you find that it is going to cost more than you can afford right now, or when you are ready, wait until you have saved the additional coin. The only thing worse than your car needing a paint job is a new paint job that looks like ... er ... bad.

My second bit of advice is look for a small, independent shop to do the work. They may not be any cheaper, but you will probably get a better job for the money.


Copper
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
I paid a guy $900.00 to soda blast the entire car (interior/engine/bumpers and trim removed) before taking it to the paint shop. It still had all of the glass in it but nothing else.
When I started calling shops for paint/body quotes...I was shocked by two things.
First was ,that very few shops wanted to paint a whole car ( I assumed they all wanted to do collision repair instead)
Second was they were starting at 5-6 thousand dollars:dontknow:

I finally remembered a small 2 bay, one man shop that had repaired a fender bender on one of our new company trucks a few years back, and he painted a base coat / clear coat with good quality paint for $2,300.00.

It came out "decent" for a 16 year old`s first car but by no means show quality.

I was disappointed within 6 months where some paint was flaking off ( I was told the soda blasted surface was not properly cleaned before he painted) He touched it up all over and it`s o.k. but I feel like it`s still going to have issues with flaking paint.
But by then the 16 year old can worry about it:nanawrench:

Good Luck

Hasbeen:texas:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,282 Posts
...

I was disappointed within 6 months where some paint was flaking off ( I was told the soda blasted surface was not properly cleaned before he painted) He touched it up all over and it`s o.k. but I feel like it`s still going to have issues with flaking paint.


Hasbeen:texas:

If the shop is not willing to stand behind the paint work for the life of the car, walk away. My paint guy warranties his work and materials for as long as you own the car.


Copper
 

·
VINTAGE MOTORHEAD
Joined
·
4,102 Posts
JARHEAD, after having been waltzed around a few times by body shops I think the most important aspect is trust, not price. Don't give your cruck to anyone who doesn't have great credentials or refernces. maybe you will be lucky to have a shop you have dealt with before. No matter what rates are quoted to you a bad actor can leave you with a poor job that you will have to look at forever.
ASsk your Texas buddies who did their cars and go with the best reputation. Once it is done you are stuck with it. Get stuck with a great result and be happy!

:beer:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
All is true that Cooper Top and others said. Mine is at a place called Bills Customs 2 bays it went in last july but he doe's small jobs on the side. At the same time though he pulled doors two toned put on cowl hood. Also when paint is done he has offered use of shop to weld in console brackets and bucket seat brackets install dash and lend a hand to completion. In the end it will be a project that we will both be proud of. Also made a decent friend along the way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,282 Posts
JARHEAD, after having been waltzed around a few times by body shops I think the most important aspect is trust, not price. Don't give your cruck to anyone who doesn't have great credentials or refernces. maybe you will be lucky to have a shop you have dealt with before. No matter what rates are quoted to you a bad actor can leave you with a poor job that you will have to look at forever.
ASsk your Texas buddies who did their cars and go with the best reputation. Once it is done you are stuck with it. Get stuck with a great result and be happy!

:beer:
This sums it up in a nutshell. I took my first car to Jonathan, the owner of JMC AutoworX (my paint and body guy), on a recommendation of his father, whom I worked with. It was just my daily driver Civic, but I still wanted a good repair after hitting a deer. I was scared spitless because it was one of those funny blues that is hard to match.

To cut to the chase, he did a fantastic job on the Civic. I then let him do my Austin-Healey ... and now he is doing my El Camino. Nobody touches the paint on my cars but JMC AutoworX and knowing that I absolutely will get what I pay for, or more, is worth the slight extra expense.

And as with Joey, I made a friend along the way.


Copper
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,005 Posts
I plan to keep my 80 Caballero and have bought the best for the entire car. A cheap paint job will not work for me on any car I've ever owned, expecailly if I'm planning to keep the car for any length of time. I was not sure what I was going to do with this car until I got it repainted and like others on here I took all the chrome off and covered a few other items. Of course I was able to do this since I only lived a mile from the shop here in South Boston, Virginia :smileyb::smileyb: Michael
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,761 Posts
I removed all the stainless trim. Bed rails, door handles door locks and gas filler door were shaved. This was a re-paint (GM white). Under hood and door jams were not painted (my mistake). Price $2000.00. I was told it would take 2 weeks, it took 6. On a scale of 1 to 10, i'd give it a 5.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top