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TrannyMike
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Discussion Starter #1
I posted this on another thread. After thinking about it I decided to start a thread with the list. It may be easier to find later on. I've been asked a few times for this. Maybe it can become a sticky for reference.

OK, here's a list of parts I recommend when building a 700R4. This is a build that should handle 450-500HP.

1) Rebuild kit with Raybestos or Borg-Warner clutches. The kit comes with all rubber seals, metal clad seals, gaskets, ring kit. Get the basic kit. Get a kit like this because you want to buy the band separately, and you'll want a complete bushing kit. Larger rebuild kits only come with "popular" bushings and a paper lined band.

2) Replace all the steel discs in the clutch packs.

3) Complete bushing kit. Get a "4L60E" bushing kit, it's a better kit and fit's a 700R4. It's got all the bushings including the Teflon pump bushing, a bronze case bushing, and either Teflon or bronze tail housing bushing. Order a Sonnax front sun gear bushing, it's wider and worth it.

4) If your pump is a 7 vane type, then convert it to a 10 vane. 10 vane works well don't go higher. Higher numbers of vanes actually displace some area where oil could be and creates less volume.

4a) Get hardened pump rings. The factory ones break and wipe out the pump.

4b) Heat treated stator shaft. This part stock is pretty soft metal, replace it! When you change these use a press

4c) Drill drain back hole in pump body with a 1/4in drill. This hole is in the front seal area. Then turn the pump over, and drill the hole 1/4in on the back side that leads to the hole drilled first. Take the other half of the pump that's got the stator shaft and line it up to find the hole in it that matches the last hole drilled, and drill it 1/4 inch too. This sounds more complicated than it is. PM me if you have questions.

5) Get the Kevlar Intermediate band. It's wider than stock too. If you can't get one, go with the high energy band. It's what 4L60E's use and it's much better that the stock paper 700 band.

6) Raybestos 3/4 "Z-Pack". This is a very heavy-duty clutch pack that's re-designed for HD work trucks, muscle cars, towing etc. It takes a stock 6 clutch pack to over 10 discs. This goes for $55-$75 and is worth it. The 3/4 clutch is one of the weaknesses to this trans. If you don't want to spend that much, then go with the 4L60E High energy 3/4 clutches. In the end you will have a left over 3/4 set of paper clutches, that came in your rebuild kit.

7) Get a set of Torrington bearings. These are like thrust washers that have little needle bearings inside of them. The kit comes with 5 of them.

8) Complete thrust washer kit. The complete kit has selective thrust washers included so you can adjust end-play.

9) Corvette intermediate servo kit. This is great inexpensive way to really add to your 1/2 and 2/3 shift durability.

10) 29 element input sprag and new low reverse roller clutch.

11) Replace the stock sun shell even if it looks perfect. A lot of power will either strip the splines or break the splines right off. A shell called "The Beast" is heat treated sun shell. Get this for sure!

12) Input drum sleeve. This is kind of optional. The input drum is aluminum and the input shaft is steel pressed in. Under load the aluminum around the shaft cracks and fails. This sleeve is pressed around the input shaft area of the aluminum drum. It prevents cracking the drum under load.

13) Transgo or Superior Industries Shift Kit. This kit is really what's gonna keep this tranny alive in racing conditions. I'm running a Superior kit right now in my 200-4R. It works great. I've always been a Transgo guy since 1978, but the last couple of years I've used a few different Superior kits in customers cars. So far I've had great success with them. Transgo is without a doubt #1 in the industry and their kits work great. Superior has more affordable prices overall with quality too. There are Valve Body, Pump, Accumulator and servo upgrades in the shift-kits. It's all the good stuff, so if you read about boost valve sizes, drilling springs and stuff like that, don't worry it's all in there.

14) Get a trans cooler that's at least rated at 22,000 lbs. More is better.

Well that's it. Now you have a solid list to work with. You can buy racing clutches if you want, but it isn't necessary unless it's really raced a lot. :beer:
 

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Thanks mike. This saved me a lot of boring research hours in front of the computer! I feel the need to pay for this advice but there is one problem... I'm broke! Haha: man college can rob you faster than the elky project


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

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Just a thought, if'n ya posted a picture of the modification it'd make this invaluable when we use the search function and you won't get PMed in six years.
 

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Now all you need to do is post an assembly manual with lots of pictures and a toll free phone number we can call you at if we run in to any trouble!:poke: Thanks for the parts list.
 

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Mike,
Off the top of my head I can't recall the manufacturer, but what are your thoughts on the constant pressure valve body for a 700R4?
-john r.
 

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Anybody know what length of drive shaft is needed for either putting in a 700r4 or a WC T5?
 

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Senior Member, NECOA Contributor
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Great list of info and needed mods Mike. I've stuck this thread in the Trans/Driveline Category along with seperated the 200-4r info and done the same. :beer:

So are you OK with some additional info and other options along with yours. Most is just to elaborate more on what you already have here. Just making sure noone is stepping on any toes. Some things might be opinionated too. :dontknow:

An example being to your # 4) Its rare but possible that you could have a 13 Vane pump. As Mike has said, don't go over 10 Vanes, so if you have the 13 vane, stepping down to a 10 Vane is actually an upgrade in strength. More IS NOT better in this case. With 13 vanes the rotor has less meat and becomes weakened with more voids for the 3 extra vanes, not to mention 3 more vanes putting stress on the rotor. The 10 vane rotor is stronger and will provide plenty of pressure. :nanawrench:
 

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TrannyMike
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2,808 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Hey Hotrod, by all means additional info is always good. There are several techs that have discovered better ways of doing things that aren't in any book.

Here's the deal on 10 vs 13 vanes. 10 vane is preferred because it produces more volume of oil. For each vane in the pump, it uses space that would be where fluid could be. You actually get diminishing volume going over 10 vanes. The factory added vanes because of harmonics in the pump, which really isn't even noticeable. 7 vanes=too few, 13=too many, 10=just right! :beer:
 

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Senior Member, NECOA Contributor
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Thanks Mike. I get a bit more time, I"ll get my info together. Glad you don't mind. Some don't, but I always like good disucssion between trans builders even if they disagree. Granted, I will certainly concede that you have more experience than I do since you're a full timer and have your own shop.
You hit on the big 3, The Beast, the 3/4 pack and the Vette Servo. Those are the bare minimum I tell anyone to address, even if for a stock low performance build. :You_Rock:


Moreless, just toucing on other things, like some will think they need 5 pinion planets. IMO rarely is that necessary, but for those who feel the need, also need to know DO NOT go with aftermarket 5 pinion planets. They are junk and even less strong that OEM 4 pinions planets. I"ll add when time permits.
 

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no you shouldnt have to, these came with 400 s which are a bulkier trans than the 700. i put one in a 69 with no clearance problems
 

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Tranny Rebuild

I posted this on another thread. After thinking about it I decided to start a thread with the list. It may be easier to find later on. I've been asked a few times for this. Maybe it can become a sticky for reference.

OK, here's a list of parts I recommend when building a 700R4. This is a build that should handle 450-500HP.

1) Rebuild kit with Raybestos or Borg-Warner clutches. The kit comes with all rubber seals, metal clad seals, gaskets, ring kit. Get the basic kit. Get a kit like this because you want to buy the band separately, and you'll want a complete bushing kit. Larger rebuild kits only come with "popular" bushings and a paper lined band.

2) Replace all the steel discs in the clutch packs.

3) Complete bushing kit. Get a "4L60E" bushing kit, it's a better kit and fit's a 700R4. It's got all the bushings including the Teflon pump bushing, a bronze case bushing, and either Teflon or bronze tail housing bushing. Order a Sonnax front sun gear bushing, it's wider and worth it.

4) If your pump is a 7 vane type, then convert it to a 10 vane. 10 vane works well don't go higher. Higher numbers of vanes actually displace some area where oil could be and creates less volume.

4a) Get hardened pump rings. The factory ones break and wipe out the pump.

4b) Heat treated stator shaft. This part stock is pretty soft metal, replace it! When you change these use a press

4c) Drill drain back hole in pump body with a 1/4in drill. This hole is in the front seal area. Then turn the pump over, and drill the hole 1/4in on the back side that leads to the hole drilled first. Take the other half of the pump that's got the stator shaft and line it up to find the hole in it that matches the last hole drilled, and drill it 1/4 inch too. This sounds more complicated than it is. PM me if you have questions.

5) Get the Kevlar Intermediate band. It's wider than stock too. If you can't get one, go with the high energy band. It's what 4L60E's use and it's much better that the stock paper 700 band.

6) Raybestos 3/4 "Z-Pack". This is a very heavy-duty clutch pack that's re-designed for HD work trucks, muscle cars, towing etc. It takes a stock 6 clutch pack to over 10 discs. This goes for $55-$75 and is worth it. The 3/4 clutch is one of the weaknesses to this trans. If you don't want to spend that much, then go with the 4L60E High energy 3/4 clutches. In the end you will have a left over 3/4 set of paper clutches, that came in your rebuild kit.

7) Get a set of Torrington bearings. These are like thrust washers that have little needle bearings inside of them. The kit comes with 5 of them.

8) Complete thrust washer kit. The complete kit has selective thrust washers included so you can adjust end-play.

9) Corvette intermediate servo kit. This is great inexpensive way to really add to your 1/2 and 2/3 shift durability.

10) 29 element input sprag and new low reverse roller clutch.

11) Replace the stock sun shell even if it looks perfect. A lot of power will either strip the splines or break the splines right off. A shell called "The Beast" is heat treated sun shell. Get this for sure!

12) Input drum sleeve. This is kind of optional. The input drum is aluminum and the input shaft is steel pressed in. Under load the aluminum around the shaft cracks and fails. This sleeve is pressed around the input shaft area of the aluminum drum. It prevents cracking the drum under load.

13) Transgo or Superior Industries Shift Kit. This kit is really what's gonna keep this tranny alive in racing conditions. I'm running a Superior kit right now in my 200-4R. It works great. I've always been a Transgo guy since 1978, but the last couple of years I've used a few different Superior kits in customers cars. So far I've had great success with them. Transgo is without a doubt #1 in the industry and their kits work great. Superior has more affordable prices overall with quality too. There are Valve Body, Pump, Accumulator and servo upgrades in the shift-kits. It's all the good stuff, so if you read about boost valve sizes, drilling springs and stuff like that, don't worry it's all in there.

14) Get a trans cooler that's at least rated at 22,000 lbs. More is better.

Well that's it. Now you have a solid list to work with. You can buy racing clutches if you want, but it isn't necessary unless it's really raced a lot. :beer:
$howGwap
 
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