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Discussion Starter #1
Last weekend my son and I replaced the trans in the El Camino when the drive shaft was removed we discovered the yolk was broken I removed the yolk managed to find an exact replacement at the junk yard. Replaced the seal now I have doubts on the proper way to tighten the nut any help would be great.:nanawrench:
Thanks Emmett
 

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Emmett:

It sounds like you need at a minimum a new crush collar for the pinion. In order to install such a collar you are going to need to remove the axles (cover, cross pin and c clips), remove the carrier (four cap bolts and don't mix up shims), and then remove pinion. You will need to inspect bearings and teeth for wear. It is likely that you will ultimately be replacing all bearings and seals in the rear. In order to diagnose the problem I think that you need to start with what caused the yoke to fail.

I would start with basics as follows:

1.) How was the prior yoke broken (in half, u bolts came lose, crack down side, etc.)?

2.) When the yoke was broken how much play was there in the pinion (side to side, backlash -twisting, and front to back)?

3.) With the new yoke installed how much play is there in the pinion (side to side, backlash -twisting, and front to back)?

4.) What is the wear pattern on the ring and pinion gear?

5.) Are there any remnants of broken bearings or posi clutches?

Let us know what you find out.
 

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It's not necessary to take the whole thing apart. Ideally, if the nut was marked before taking it off, installing it later and adding 3 to 5 inch-pounds more with the torque wrench after the nut comes to where it was marked.
Checking the torque to turn the pinion before removing the nut, was the way to do it, but you could set the pre-load on the pinion adjusting the nut to get about 20 to 30 inch pounds to turn the pinion.
Taking the whole thing apart and replacing all the bearings is a lot of work, and sliding in a whole different rear would be easier.
 

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X2 on what SteelyBill said , also a little gm trick so fluid doesnot run up the threads,a little black silicon on the splines of the yolk,will help prvent that ... worked for me many years !:beer:
 

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TrannyMike
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X3 on what Bill said except for 1 thing. I go about 25 inch lbs of torque(bearing preload)when turning the yoke when I'm building a diff. Now that's with just the pinion gear installed. So go a little higher like 35 inch lbs or so, but take the tires off and make sure the drums aren't dragging or just pull them off and look at your brakes while you're at it. You are going to have your pinion and carrier and at least one axle to turn if it's non posi that's why I suggest just a little more torque when checking the preload. :beer:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Guy's :You_Rock:
 
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