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just read a page on 350 engine swaps in 5 generation elkys. ive got an 83 ss royal knight with a 305 and im assuming a 350 trans. i want to drop a 350 from an 89 chevy truck in it, but it said the flywheel would have to be changed on an engine 87 or newer i believe... but changed to what? would i have to get a flywheel off an older engine or would my flywheel off the 305 fit they are both small blocks after all...i also heard something about how i would have to buy a kit for my trans...something to do with the torque converter not locking up anymore. any info will help


thanks
 

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The difference ,is the newer engine has a one piece seal and the crank is made different at the rear, the older one will not work with the newer one,find out for sure if its a one piece rear main seal or a 2 piece, you will also want to check the fly wheel teeth,, will be a 153 tooth or a 168 tooth the starter will work with either one,most starter drives are 9 tooth . hope this help ! :texas:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
so would i have to buy a fly wheel...or is there a possibility that the flywheel on the 350 will work?
 

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this is what you will need to know,First does the new engine have a One piece rear main seal if so ,the flywheel off your old engine willnot work,

This is what the rear of the crank looks like with a one piece

IF it looks like the above picture you Will need a new flywheel

IF it looks like the below picture than the old style flywheel will work

Now there you go !
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks for the info...but i think i might sell the engine and buy an older small block, this ones got that tbi crap on it and, it would be easy enough to change but from what i understand they are pretty detuned anyway,
 

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older small blocks wear quicker and leak more.
Keep the 89 shortblock, and put good heads on it; the TBI trucks usually had poor intake ports.

It will take a roller cam cheaply, many of them will go a long time without needing a pan gasket or rear seal, and the metal of the block wears extremely well compared to the 010 junk blocks from the 1970s.
 

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If you are swapping to an automatic it is a flexplate you are looking for - not a flywheel - flexplates are fairly inexpensive items compared to flywheels anyway, the 1-pc seal ones tend to be a bit more expensive but less than $100 total.

I would keep the block and run a roller cam setup - with the factory setup - which is proven durable, a hyd. roller becomes much more affordable.
 

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What?

older small blocks wear quicker and leak more.
Keep the 89 shortblock, and put good heads on it; the TBI trucks usually had poor intake ports.

It will take a roller cam cheaply, many of them will go a long time without needing a pan gasket or rear seal, and the metal of the block wears extremely well compared to the 010 junk blocks from the 1970s.
Sorry ,but i disagree with your take on,older small blocks leak more,thats not true at all ,in-fact the LT1 with the shaft drive water pumps and the shaft drive distributor under the water pump leak like crazy ! but you have you opinion and i have mine ,Have a geat day !
 

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i agree with fixitman i have the 400 i took from my 86 and its was in over 10 and doesnt leak a drop,they dont wear any faster or slower any wear differance between newer and older moters is due to the better oil today. as far as the truck head engines being detuned not true. they just build torque and for dayly drivers you want torque over hp any day. you put a carb intake on that truck motor and it will surprise you.they are 9.5 to 1 350 s and good for around 300 hp with a carb and good tune. you have to remember they are rated at the trans output shaft with all accesories and emission equiptment on and working,ac,ps,alt engine fan.all of that pulling the # down.the old motors were rated at the flywheel with nothing on the engine. the late 350 flywheel is 38 $ from autozone and the starters on a small and big block go to thier respective flywheels sizes.the 12 in uses the starter with 1 long and1 short bolt, the 14 in flywheel uses 2 long bolts. you just buy the flywheel for the size starter you have to fit the new motor.camaro and caprice uses the small 12 in flywheel and the trucks and saburbans use the 14 in flywheel.86 and newer small blocks use the 1 piece rear main with its counterweighted flywheel with its smaller bolt circle
 

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if the 350 has a flywheel and starter on it?? thats what you use,thats the ones you need..:texas:

check out this site for trans id http://www.maliburacing.com/auto_tranny_id.htm
if it has wires going to the driver side of the trany?? its probly a lockup.. these guys can talk you thru that..

keep the 350 and use it,,thats a nice upgrade,, 305 is the poster child for detuned engine :poke:
 

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Sorry ,but i disagree with your take on,older small blocks leak more,thats not true at all ,in-fact the LT1 with the shaft drive water pumps and the shaft drive distributor under the water pump leak like crazy ! but you have you opinion and i have mine ,Have a geat day !
I was referring to one-piece pan gaskets which IIRC, started in the 70s, one-piece rear main seals which are all 86-up SBC, dipstick tubes through the block intsead of the pan which varies by model and oilpan but definitely were widespread about 1980-up.


Didn't think about the Gen II engines LT1/LT4.

i agree with fixitman i have the 400 i took from my 86 and its was in over 10 and doesnt leak a drop,they dont wear any faster or slower any wear differance between newer and older moters is due to the better oil today. as far as the truck head engines being detuned not true. they just build torque and for dayly drivers you want torque over hp any day. you put a carb intake on that truck motor and it will surprise you.they are 9.5 to 1 350 s and good for around 300 hp with a carb and good tune. you have to remember they are rated at the trans output shaft with all accesories and emission equiptment on and working,ac,ps,alt engine fan.all of that pulling the # down.the old motors were rated at the flywheel with nothing on the engine. the late 350 flywheel is 38 $ from autozone and the starters on a small and big block go to thier respective flywheels sizes.the 12 in uses the starter with 1 long and1 short bolt, the 14 in flywheel uses 2 long bolts. you just buy the flywheel for the size starter you have to fit the new motor.camaro and caprice uses the small 12 in flywheel and the trucks and saburbans use the 14 in flywheel.86 and newer small blocks use the 1 piece rear main with its counterweighted flywheel with its smaller bolt circle
You sure type a lot. :yell:

The metallurgy of later model blocks is such that thinner castings can be used (less cost, less weight) and bores wear slower. A 200k mile 1970something block is going to show bore wear moreso than a 1990something block.

Oil may be an additional contributing factor. To the point of the cleanliness of oil however, is that fuel blowby from a richer, carbureted mixture contaminates oil far quicker than a cleaner, fuel injection combustion mixture.
 
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