[79ElCam]

So I've got my floor pans all patched up:nanawrench:, and i'm to the point to seal everything.
I was wondering if I need to prime the floor before I apply the seam sealer (Fusor 800EZ)? I've got POR15 to go down too. I just want to be sure that I'm doing this the right way!
Thanks in advance:beer:
I did use the search function, but couldn't find a straight answer:dontknow:

 

[ccc]

you should be able to seal before or after with no difference. i always seal after i paint the area

 

[rnhart3]

If you've gone this far, make sure to use good sealer like 3M or PPG

 

[jmcautoworx]

Ive been checking here off and on for a bit and thought I'd chime in on this. I have restored SEVERAL cars and crossed this bridge many times before. This is my living. I do this everyday!

800ez will not stick to bare metal, it must be primed first. POR will NOT stick to clean bare metal either. You MUST sandblast or etch prime the metal before POR. I dont like to put POR over new clean metal. There is really no need for it. What I would do is epoxy the floor (PPG's DP line) then seam seal, then do a Raptor spray in bed liner or paint it. The Raptor liner is tough, looks good, water proof and its tintable. POR is a good product, and has its uses. Painting good clean new metal is not one of them IMO. The above process is what I do on most of my restorations. Good luck.

http://www.u-pol.com/product-cat/83/raptor%E2%84%A2-bed-liner.htm

 

[79ElCam]

Ive been checking here off and on for a bit and thought I'd chime in on this. I have restored SEVERAL cars and crossed this bridge many times before. This is my living. I do this everyday!

800ez will not stick to bare metal, it must be primed first. POR will NOT stick to clean bare metal either. You MUST sandblast or etch prime the metal before POR. I dont like to put POR over new clean metal. There is really no need for it. What I would do is epoxy the floor (PPG's DP line) then seam seal, then do a Raptor spray in bed liner or paint it. The Raptor liner is tough, looks good, water proof and its tintable. POR is a good product, and has its uses. Painting good clean new metal is not one of them IMO. The above process is what I do on most of my restorations. Good luck.

is the epoxy primer necessary since my floor isn't "new" metal? could I just etch primer the fresh welds, and por the rest? just thought i'd ask before headin to the autobody store.
btw, thanks!

 

[Bobby78]

Clean the welds and use epoxy. Etching primers are more for galvanized sheet metal than bare sheet metal. Then seam sealer over the cured epoxy. 3M fast n firm is a nice paintable sealer that sets up pretty quick.

 

[jmcautoworx]

I thought you were putting in a solid new pan. If the rest of your floors are rusty, then I would etch the new metal, seam seal, POR the the whole thing. I woulnt trust etch primer in a spray can. PPG's Shopline or Omni line is cheaper and will work fine here and save you a few $$

 

[79ElCam]

picked up some PPG shopline epoxy primer today. The price wasn't as bad as i thought:nanawrench:

 

[steelybill]

When I re-sealed mine after digging out all the old stuff, and getting it sand blasted, I used some marine sealant that I had in stock for working on wooden boats. It's 3M, 5200. Hope I never had to dig that stuff out....it's really tough.

 

[82gmc]

urethane window adhesive works great on underside repairs. mask out the seam with tape. it makes a neater job. the urethane stays flexible, wont shrink and its 12 bucks a tube. if you are going to topcoat be sure to epoxy over the urethane before painting. epoxy sticks perfectly to the urethane. be sure not to confuse silicone sealers with urethanes. 3M fast n firm shrinks and gets brittle. its much better than drip check(junk 1940s technology) but its nowhere near as good as urethanes.

 

[steelybill]

The 3M 5200 doesn't ever shrink etc, but it's expensive, like 30+ bucks a tube.