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Discussion Starter #21
Thank you, that's a very good idea. I get the potentiometer and give it a try.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
What style of potentiometer should I get?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
so it looks like the 160 was allowing too much coolant thru too fast so it overheated? but it still runs 220 at idle? how hot does it get in Mountain Home?
The temperature this week has been running 96* to 105*.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
The only thing that helps me it has low humidity. It gets cold here, down to 0* at times.
 

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Forget about copper rads. They are nothing but trouble in a more modern engine. The problem isn't with the rad itself but the engine. Everything from aluminium heads, pumps, blocks, anywhere the water jackets touch. Galvanic corrosion will tear it apart. Old solid cast iron, no worries, anything else, does nothing but pit the copper until it's no better at holding coolant than a screen door.

Copper dissipates heat better than aluminium. Costs 4-5x as much and weighs far more. You can go thicker, tighter, better for much less weight with aluminium than copper, giving aluminium the appearance of cooling better, but size for size, copper is king.

It's just not worth it. Stick with aluminium if there's any other aluminium in the coolant path. That means don't use brass fittings either, even nickle plated is suspect if it's a cheaper, copper addative nickle and not a high chrome base.

You'll find out all about galvanic corrosion when you pull the thermostat out and the copper center plug is turning to white goopy mess. It's the leading cause of failure. Dex-Cool helps a lot, but the more copper you have, the less effective the Dex-Cool becomes. Part of the reason dex got a bad rap, aluminium heads, block, waterpump etc and a copper/brass rad.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Thank you for the great information. It's very helpful,so I can learn more about it.
 
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