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usually there is a spring in the lower hose to keep it from collapsing
at hi-way speed depending on the RPM..
even stock parts and hi-flow this and that parts can move more water than can
flow thru the radiator core, especially if its a smaller core radiator,,
that will suck the lower hose flat or shut off the flow..

new hoses don't allways come with a new spring like they used to,
so youll need to re-use the old spring..

head gasket
depending on how long it takes for the radiator to go empty will kinda
determine how much white smoke youll see out he exhaust,
and how bad the miss or misses will be..
check the oil too, if its chocolate colored you have a leak, some where..


this will go a lot faster if youll answer some of our diagnostic questions too..
the more info the better.. slow down type it all out or post some pics or both...
"stock radiator" doesn't really tell us any thing,
or if it will have any chance of keeping up with a 450hp SBC..
there is different specs
there is 150hp stock radiators and 400hp stock SBC radiators..
 

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JJLT1-- thanks for the primer on radiators. Any Replacements I've done in the long distant past have been used, stock . Might have had one or two boiled and cleaned.

badger--A spring in the radiator hose keeps it (smooth Wall , molded hoses) from collapsing.
As opposed to a straight, Bend to fit ,convoluted radiator hose .
 
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Discussion Starter #24
usually there is a spring in the lower hose to keep it from collapsing
at hi-way speed depending on the RPM..
even stock parts and hi-flow this and that parts can move more water than can
flow thru the radiator core, especially if its a smaller core radiator,,
that will suck the lower hose flat or shut off the flow..

new hoses don't allways come with a new spring like they used to,
so youll need to re-use the old spring..

head gasket
depending on how long it takes for the radiator to go empty will kinda
determine how much white smoke youll see out he exhaust,
and how bad the miss or misses will be..
check the oil too, if its chocolate colored you have a leak, some where..


this will go a lot faster if youll answer some of our diagnostic questions too..
the more info the better.. slow down type it all out or post some pics or both...
"stock radiator" doesn't really tell us any thing,
or if it will have any chance of keeping up with a 450hp SBC..
there is different specs
there is 150hp stock radiators and 400hp stock SBC radiators..
I put brand new hoses on when I change the motor I’m not home right now to take pictures I’m sure the radiator is small or a small V-8 and I am also sure the lower hose does not have a springing it I will be doing a lot more inspection This weekend and I’ll try and figure out how to post pics just hearing that this could be a radiator problem and not a head gasket problem has already gave me a better attitude thanks again for your input
 

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Sorry I’ve been gone so long I didn’t know anybody was still out there helping me I appreciate your input the radiator I have is the stock radiator for a small block Chevy I don’t understand the spring in the lower hose comment I would love for this to be a radiator issue and not a head gasket issue I planOn doing a compression check and any leak down check to see if I can detect any small differences I hope desperately that this is the radiator issue thank you again for your input
The spring in the lower hose addresses collapsing of the lower hose which may occur. The lower hose is the coolant return pathway from the radiator. At higher than idle RPMs the water pump sucks the coolant from the radiator. Without the spring-like insert the hose has the propensity to collapse thereby limiting the coolant flow and cooling ability of the system. 🤓
 

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You say you loose @ 4" onto the ground after running highway speeds. Question. Are you then filling it back up all the way and loose 4" all over again or do you loose 4" every time, even if not filling.

Big difference.

If it's 4" from full, I'd say your rad is running too hot and over-pressurizing the cap, and you are just dumping it. That can be from simply using a fancy fan, which doesn't have the airflow properties of the stock fan, improper/missing shroud, wrong coolant mix, wrong thermostat, too low core rad.

If you loose 4" even from half-empty, then it's not coming out the cap (or seriously doubtful) but instead leaking out someplace else. As suggested, could be a freeze plug, head gasket, head cracked, head not torqued, water pump seals, hoses. Best way to check for leaks is dump in some UV reactant, pc builders use that stuff in computer water cooling setups. Run the car on highway. Get inside/under the engine in the dark with a black light. The leak will glow if it's external. (same theory as dye checking an ac leak). Many times if it's too close to engine/exhaust, the leak can't be detected as the coolant is evaporated or blown away. Dye residue will at least point in the right direction.
 

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Does anyone know of a source for radiator hose springs???? If it had one in mine at one time it no longer is there. Or is is just a matter of going through junk yard lower hose's??? Thanks. LBM
 

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My bad. Did not realize some molded hoses came without springs.
A rigid tube could be spliced into your current hose.
Maybe call around and ask if springs are in their hoses. Or try and get a convoluted one.
Like V belts, sometimes you have to pick and choose for the best fit.
 

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So basically unobtainum! LBM

My bad. Did not realize some molded hoses came without springs.
A rigid tube could be spliced into your current hose.
Maybe call around and ask if springs are in their hoses. Or try and get a convoluted one.
Like V belts, sometimes you have to pick and choose for the best fit.
 

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Money vs materials. Most hoses I've seen that require springs are tight corner hoses that ran an older, cheaper grade of rubber that softened up significantly with heat. Springs cost money and aren't made by the same ppl as make the hoses, so cost even more and have limited production use. Far easier and cheaper to make a glass reinforced hose out of a less malleable rubber, even if it's slightly thicker in outside diameter.
 

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I've never run an overflow/recovery tank in any of my classics. IMHO they're not needed with a properly maintained cooling system that is filled per factory recommendations which is 1-2" from the top.
Now properly maintained means the right size radiator and shroud for the power requirements, clean fresh coolant that's changed every two years and the proper fan location.
A spring in the lower radiator hose was standard from the factory. Hoses with the springs are available. Check Napa or the better parts stores. Some vendors carry just the springs too.
 

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Magic words those, "which is 1-2" from the top". Most will just fill it to the top, which allows no room in the rad for expansion, so need the overflow/recovery tank.
 
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