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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The ZZ383 GM crate engine specs calls for re-torquing the heads after the first 10 hours.

Not an easy task as the roller rockers are too close to get a socket on bolts between them and clearance issues around the headers as well. It's all but impossible...

So the question is...How important is this anyway ???

I've never owned a new vehicle that required re-torquing the heads going way back to the early 60's. Why is it suggested on this new crate engine :dontknow:

I'm leaning towards not doing it....

What do you guys think ??
 

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If it recommends a retorque I would do it regardless of how big a pain in the @$$ it is to do simply because if you don't I would imagine it would likely void any warranty you would have gotten with the engine. Did you try fishing a 3/8 short socket in there and using adapters and extensions to reach the bolts? It always seemed sketchy to me but I've done that a few times to get around taking the rockers off. good luck with it :beer:
 

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VINTAGE MOTORHEAD
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Very interesting for me. I have a ZZ4 motor, essentially the same hardware as you. The instructions did not require a retorquing. I have put 2000 miles on it over the last few years. Like you, I have rollder rockers and headers. I think I will inquire of Scoggins-Dickey if it is necesary or recommended.It is a pain in the butt to do, for sure.
If they told you to do it there must be a good reason. My engine compartment is very open and uncluttered so I have no excuse to ignore the warning. Thanks for the tip.
 

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would you rather change head gaskets? if they tell you to do it and you dont they wont warranty it if something goes wrong.it falls under thier neglect clause
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Very interesting for me. I have a ZZ4 motor, essentially the same hardware as you. The instructions did not require a retorquing. I have put 2000 miles on it over the last few years. Like you, I have rollder rockers and headers. I think I will inquire of Scoggins-Dickey if it is necesary or recommended.It is a pain in the butt to do, for sure.
If they told you to do it there must be a good reason. My engine compartment is very open and uncluttered so I have no excuse to ignore the warning. Thanks for the tip.
Lockjaw,
Let me know what you find out..
If it has to be done think I'll take it to the local engine shop just more hassle then I am ready for....

Arnie in Iowa
 

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VINTAGE MOTORHEAD
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Hey, Arnie
do you have printed instructions from GMPP that require this to be done or is this what someone suggested you do ? I bought my crate motor 10 years ago and have no recollection of this advice. I don't have A/C or any clutter so it is not too big a deal for me because I am familiar with my motor. I agree it is a pain. The good side is that often when doing one thing you find something else that needs attention. Like pulling a PM detail on a truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey, Arnie
do you have printed instructions from GMPP that require this to be done or is this what someone suggested you do ? I bought my crate motor 10 years ago and have no recollection of this advice. I don't have A/C or any clutter so it is not too big a deal for me because I am familiar with my motor. I agree it is a pain. The good side is that often when doing one thing you find something else that needs attention. Like pulling a PM detail on a truck.
Came with the details on the break in process.
Only a few months left on the warranty ... I'm still leaning toward not doing it.

Just removing the headers is a pain in the a$$...

Arnie
 

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VINTAGE MOTORHEAD
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I read that pdf last night. Unless I missed something I did not come across any instructions to retorque the heads. I spoke to my lifelong buddy and former drag race crew chief who informed me that he DID retorque the heads on my motor not long after we installed it in 2000. I had forgotten that until he reminded me.Since he built me some great motors and kept everything running for me I have to accept his advice to do it.
 
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