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Recently removed the whole differential from my 84 SS. Axles have also been removed to replace the seals and bearings. How do I remove the carrier so I can clean the inside of the differential housing. I am having it media blasted and powdercoated and need it to be light in weight. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Here is the axle code stamped on the housing. 6 BZ C026 2. Is it a chevy axle or a different type.
 

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The first 3 digits indicate the axle code, the next one indicates manufacturer (B=Buick, O=Olds, C=Chevy, P=Pontiac), the next is Julian date it was built and the last it the shift it was made on.

A "B" in the axle code (i.e., 2BX) usually indicates a posi.


6bz axle code 2.41 Posi,Chevy built,26th day of the year,2nd shift.

http://www.gbodycentral.com/forums/eta/1980-Malibu-ElCamino-ETA.php
 

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To media/sand blast it you will need to completely strip the housing. remove the bearing caps on each side of the carrier and with the axles removed it will come out. You will also need to remove the pinion. I have had several rears that were blasted with them assembled and you don't want to go there. The blasting media finds its way in no matter how hard you try to seal it off.
Re-installing the pinion is another matter that can be addressed in a later thread.
 

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as stated above the carrier is held in by the side bearings. pull the caps on either side and if you cant get it by hand, pry the whole ring gear and carrier out. its fairly heavy so be ready so you dont drop it to the floor.

for the pinion you need to remove the nut on the yolk on the outside, take a lead hammer, or put a piece of wood against the pinion and smack it to drive the pinion out of the yolk. be ready with that too as it will fall out and hitting the floor will damage it. make sure you save all the pieces, the shims should be between the pinion and the bearing, which is pressed on so if you go back together with the same parts you shouldnt need to re shim it. the only thing youll need to replace is the crush sleeve, (the spacer looking thing between the bearing race and where the yolk slides back over) trying to hammer them back flat, or uncrushing them rarely works and its not a good idea to try and re use it. when you go back together it sets the preload on the pinion bearings, which if i remember is 25 inch pounds of resistance to turn the pinion when its tightened. (you basically tighten it a little at a time till you get the preload,. DO NOT just keep tightening the nut till it bottoms out.)

theres no need to remove the outer races for the pinion bearings, just wash the inside of the housing out well with gasoline or diesel and let it run out and dry before going back together.

it might be a good idea to replace the pinion seal wheile you have it apart.
 
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