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Discussion Starter #1
When I first got my car, the rear window seal was shot. As a matter of fact the bottom lip of the window sill was rusted out. I had a friends "body repair" kid cut out the bad piece and weld in a new sill. Well, when I got the car back the window still leaked, so I've removed the window and am going to clean up all of the rubber goop and rust that is there. It will also give me a chance to stop any rusting that was supposed to be done before the window went back in.
I have three questions, if answered, that could help me to avoid similar problems in the future. Question one is, does the window sill all around where the window sits need to be completely smooth? There is some slight rippling of the origional sheet metal that the window fits in. I thought the rubber putty seal would compensate. Am I wrong?
Question two is, did GM, or any aftermarket operation ever make a rubber window seal that holds the window in similar to what today's cars use? It would be much nicer. Also I wouldn't be adverse to removing the dented piece of chrome that is currently there.
Question three is, there are some old clips for a tonneau cover that is no longer there. Would it be a good idea to remove the clips and bondo the area (between the rear window and the bed) to avoid any possibility of future leaking in the holes. I'm not going to get a new tonneau cover if I can get it watertight. Thanks.

1968 elCamino
 

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Those rear windows are glued in like windshied are, right? If thats the case, get the windshield glue from NAPA, it's like $10 per tube. It comes in a tube same as caulking. That stuff WILL NOT allow leaks as long as the surface is grease and dust free. I've replaced quite a few windshields and never had one leak yet. Should work just as good on the rear window too! 8)
 

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Yes, use the black seal goop. One suggestion I have is to run an extra bead all around the window when it is in place, even along the bottom edge. GM usually didn't run an extra bead along the bottom edge, causing water to collect and the rust to form. This worked on my previous '67, and I need to do same on my current '67. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys, I will take extra care when it gets installed this time. I also had a second thought on the snaps where the missing tonneau cover was. I will remove those snaps and seal up the edge between the window, and the bed. It should be a good place to practice with my new container of bondo- type- body putty. I just need the weather to get a little nicer, and my %#$ to get busier, and it should come out fine.
 

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Watch that bondo for plugging holes. If you don't paint over A.S.A.P. it acts like a sponge, soaks up water, and will rust. I've had good luck plugging holes with "Kitty Hair", its a fiberglass impregnated version of bondo. Remember to use a punch to countersink the hole a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the tip. I've never heard of that "kitty hair" type bondo product, but I'll look. I'm still trying to clean the rubber goop out of the sill. It will come out clean, but it is just taking time. I had to go to a baseball game last night just to get away. Hey, I may have to go to another game tonight for the same reason!
 
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