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Discussion Starter #1
During a recent rain, I noticed that I now have a leak coming from my rear window. There are no visible rust holes in the metal around the window. From reading on here, I see that this is not a new issue for Elkys. Anyway, I stopped at a body shop and they gave me an estimate of ~$250 for repair. That includes pulling the window, body work, trim clips, etc.

Is this a job that a mere novice like me can tackle or should I just plan to have it repaired at the body shop?
 

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That would depend on YOUR skill level, Window leaks can and MOST OFTEN will be stubborn little
critters to seal properly. I can only add it's a choice you will have to make. THERE is a Skill to it for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I removed my AC and replaced it with an AC delete heater box which took me a lot longer to seal properly than I had anticipated. Finally, I was able to get it sealed and just put in my carpet when I discovered the new leak. Now, I do not want to relive the issues I had with the heater box, but also would love to have that money to spend elsewhere.
 

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When the seal on the window gets old and brittle and the body flexes it breaks the seal loose. The only real permanent fix is to pull the window, clean all the old sealer and re-install the window.
If you tackle it get a buddy to help. All the interior and exterior trim around the window has to be removed.
 

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but also would love to have that money to spend elsewhere.
That my Man, is most likely the #1 Wish of ALL Classic Car Owners.
Should you ever discover a good permanent Fix, or Solution,
Please by all means, Share it with us!
I for one, could really use the Help with that one. :beer:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Cool...pull and reseal the window. The what would you use to treat/fill the metal, POR15?
 

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Be there when they pull it. What you use will be determined by what you find when the trim is removed. You can then see what you really have hidden and make a decision to stop them until you make repairs or hopefully it is in good shape and they can go ahead.
 

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Need some special tools to do the work. Need the tool to remove trim around the window, and tool to cut through the window seal. I did for the first time on my 72. I had a lot of hidden rust in the lower channel corners, drivers side was the worst. I cut out the rust, made and welded in patches. I also sand blasted the entire window channel. Used POR-15 and then topcoated with rattle can paint, then reinstalled window. You need to use the proper thickness seal, at least that's true for the 72 don't know if that's true for your year. I think that is a good price considering it includes body work and clips. I also agree that you want to be there when they pull the window to see the work that needs to be done.
 

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This is just a thought i had:
Get a syringe
fill the syringe with window sealant
figure it out
ive never done this but a recent prank involving a syringe, strong glue and door locks at school got me thinking outside of the box
 

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I would opt to have the rear window resealed by a professional. Many older Elkies I have looked at have been ruined by neglect of small rear window leaks. It's amazing how much rust can be caused by a small trickle. A 1966 that i used to own had rusted window opening corner and the floor pan below it was trashed from the damp carpet. In the long run, $250 is not too bad if it is within your budget.
 

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do you know how to get the window out,,without breaking it ??? not easy with all the curves...
then the big question is how much is a new one ???
is that one of the etc...that they cover if they break it ??? i would ask them...:texas:

are the windows still for sale ? any one priced one lately ??
 

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With the right tools and some patience it isn't too hard to remove it. The best way after the moldings are off is to use the wire sold specifically for glass removal. Get a helper and work the wire in a sawing motion. One guy inside the car the other on the outside. Work the wire slowly and carefully all the way around the glass and resist the urge to push the glass out.
After you have the glass out, clean it with a razor and a wax remover/degreaser like prep-sol,pre-kleeno, or even alcohol.
To install the glass buy 3M windo-weld ribbon and run it around the inside edge of the glass. Again you need a helper to carefully postion the glass because once you drop it into place its not coming back up! Be sure you have it centered. An easy way to center the glass is to trial fit it first without the ribbon and use a piece of masking tape across the glass onto the body in a few places and then slice the tape with a razor blade so a piece stays on the glass and on the body. Then when you have the ribbon on the glass carefully set the glass into position lining up the tape. Next use 3M windo-weld sealer (cauking) and run a bead completely around the glass. You can clean up any mess with the prep-sol or pre-kleeno.
And if you break the glass don't worry. Here's an ebay link to a few used ones.....
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=78...s&_odkw=78-87+el+camino+rear+window&_osacat=0
 
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