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It will be assumed that you have the necessary tools on hand and that you have basic mechanical skills.

<p>It will be assumed that you have the necessary tools on hand and that you
have basic mechanical skills.</p>
<p align="center"><b><u><i>DISCONNECT BATTERY BEFORE ATTEMPTING THIS PROCEDURE!</i></u></b></p>
<p><span class="postbody"><br>
1) Remove 6 Phillips head screws in the gage pod cover. Two on the front midway
between the top and the bottom, two under the top lip, and two on the bottom
under the edge. I have left the bottom two out on mine because they add no
strength and are difficult to get to. <br>
</span></p>
<p><span class="postbody">2) Remove the cover and put it aside <br>
</span></p>
<p><span class="postbody">3) Remove 3 screws in the light switch mount and
dismount the switch from the plug and put it aside. <br>
</span></p>
<p><span class="postbody">4) Using an extension and 1/4" drive socket remove the
left side air conditioning duct being careful to pull the duct out as the screw
loosens so that it stays in the duct and doesn't drop into the dash. Set the
duct aside with the screw in place. <br>
</span></p>
<p><span class="postbody">5) Using a small screwdriver and holding the knob with
your left thumb and forefinger, loosen the screw that holds the knob on the
clock adjuster shaft (if you have a clock) again, pulling the knob back as the
screw loosens so that you don't drop that little bitty screw on the floor where
you cant find it. Set it where it wont get lost or bumped onto the ground. <br>
</span></p>
<p><span class="postbody">6) Now. loosen the screws that hold the clear plastic
cover over the gage mask and remove it, set it aside. <br>
</span></p>
<p><span class="postbody">7) Now start being very careful around the gages as
the plastic needles get very brittle from being in a hot cab for years. Don't
touch them! <br>
</span></p>
<p><span class="postbody">8.) Remove the two screws that hold the auto
transmission indicator in. It is just below the speedometer. <br>
</span></p>
<p><span class="postbody">9) After removing the screws you can wiggle it around
and out from under the "mask" but it will still have a small cable connected to
it that is activated mechanically by the gear shift lever. Remove this cable
from the indicator and remove the indicator and put it aside. This has to be
done before the mask is removed as it goes through a slot in the mask. <br>
</span></p>
<p><span class="postbody">10 ) Now remove the screws that hold the gage mask in
place, remove it and set it aside. You will be painting the blue side of it with
silver paint later. Don't forget to do this before putting it back so the night
time lighting will be bright enough to see the gages. <br>
</span></p>
<p><span class="postbody">(If you already have gages and are only replacing one,
this is as far as you will have to go. By removing the mounting screws you can
now remove gages so that they can be repaired or replaced.) <br>
</span></p>
<p><span class="postbody">11) Now we are ready to remove the "pod". <br>
sheet metal nuts at each corner of the pod. The upper right one has to be done
with a 1/4" extension and ratchet wrench by reaching through the hole in the
light panel that was made for just this operation. Once it is loose but not off.
stop and using your left index finger reach back behind the light panel and hold
the edge of the sheet metal nut so that it doesn't slip out of the socket. If
you let it slip out when loose it will fall behind the dash and you may never
see it again. Its a little tricky to withdraw the extension with your finger on
the socket and then finagle it through the hole in the lamp panel, but is not
difficult. The upper left one is not at the corner, but is above the
speedometer. This is unfortunate as otherwise you could remove the pod without
removing the clear front and mask. The other two nuts are easy to remove at the
bottom corners. <br>
</span></p>
<p><span class="postbody">13) Now, with your left index finger, reach through
the hole where the air conditioning vent was and behind the speedometer. You
will just barely be able to feel things. If you have a speedometer sensor on the
back of the speedometer its a little more difficult, but its still possible.
Feeling with the outside of the index finger, find the speedometer cable. Then
move your finger toward yourself along the bottom of the speedometer cable until
you feel a metal "ring" that is around the cable. Press this toward yourself and
pull lightly on the pod toward yourself and the speedometer cable will release
from the pod. NOW...DO NOT pull the pod off just yet. <br>
</span></p>
<p><span class="postbody">14) Check and see that the transmission indicator
cable will not snag anywhere and pull the pod toward yourself until the plug-in
connector on the lower right back side pulls out. You can now pull the pod out
but be careful as the speedometer sensor cable will still be connected. If you
have removed or will be removing the computer you can remove the speedometer
sensor from the speedometer and remove the pod. I folded the thing back up and
pushed in back into the dash just in case I might find a use for it in the
future. If you need to have it for the computer, I would cut the two wires about
6" from the sensor and put in a two pin PokHom connector so that every time you
remove the pod you can disconnect it easily without removing the sensor from the
speedometer. AND, I can guarantee you will remove the pod several, maybe as many
as 10, times during this operation to install gages. I did. <br>
</span></p>
<p><span class="postbody">15) Now you are ready to remove the idiot lights and
all the instruments so that you can replace the printed circuit board with one
for use with the gages. <br>
</span></p>
<p><span class="postbody">16) If you don't have a printed circuit board for the
gages, it is possible to use wire in its place. BUT don't attempt this unless
you are familiar with reading schematics and doing electronics wiring. Its not a
tough circuit to duplicate if you know what you are doing but if you don't you
wont be able to do it without getting some training FIRST. <br>
</span></p>
<p><span class="postbody">17) There are now several things you may want to do
before reassembly that are not related directly to the gage installation but are
easy to do now and not easy to do when you have it all back together and decide
you wish you had done them. <br>
</span></p>
<p><span class="postbody">18) Now is the perfect time to pull the speedometer
cable out of its housing and lubricate/replace it if it is binding and making a
"wavy" speedometer needle or is making that "rrrump...rrrump...rrrump" noise.
<br>
</span></p>
<p><span class="postbody">19) Before replacing the pod after installing your
gages and circuit board you want to decide if you want the temp gage to deflect
to the right when turning the key to the "start" position. Mine does and I
consider that a test of the gage. It wont hurt the gage. But if that will bother
you, you can cut the green wire, from pin 3 of the back plane connector, that
goes to the ignition switch. There are two green wires from that connector, one
to the temp sender and one to the ignition switch. The one to the ignition
switch was used as a "lamp test" by grounding when the key is in the start
position. <br>
</span></p>
<p><span class="postbody">20) Check the connectors in the plug and make sure
none are bent or displaced. You may also want to clean the contacts with some
contact cleaner. The plug can be removed from the plastic panel by pressing in
on the end of the plug to remove it. <br>
</span></p>
<p><span class="postbody">21) Place a piece of duct tape over the sharp metal
arch that goes over the steering column. It can touch and destroy a printed
circuit board if the pod is pushed back too far. The tape will insulate it from
the circuit if you push too hard. <br>
</span></p>
<p><span class="postbody">22) Cut a small block of wood to insert between the
plastic panel that holds the plug and the metal support structure. This panel
tends to deflect forward as you push the pod back on and after years it may get
to where it wont make good contact to the pod. The piece of wood should be just
big enough to fit snuggly behind the upper left corner of the plastic panel and
the metal support behind it. This will hold it from deflecting as much and
because it is snug it wont fall out. If you make it too big you wont be able to
push the pod all the way back! <br>
</span></p>
<p><span class="postbody">23) Now remember the paint job I told you about? Get
that gage mask that is black on the front and blue on the back. Mask the holes
so that paint wont spray through and onto the black front area. Spray the blue
(back) side with silver paint. This will increase the reflectivity so that you
can see the gages at night. The idiot light panel had a lower light intensity
than the gage panel. If you get some over spray you can always re spray the
front with flat black. <br>
</span></p>
<p><span class="postbody">24) Now the four main points to remember when you are
replacing the pod: <br>
<br>
a) Reassembly is the exact reverse of the removal process. (Famous last words)
<br>
<br>
b) Make sure you have fished the transmission indicator cable back through the
hole where it can be reattached to the indicator in the next steps. <br>
<br>
c) Make sure you have reattached the speedometer sensor if you are going to need
it. <br>
<br>
d) Make sure that as you put the pod back in you use your left hand fingers to
align the speedometer cable with the back of the speedometer. <br>
</span></p>
<p><span class="postbody">25) Now as you put the pod back in if it is aligned
with the four studs that hold it in place it will automatically be aligned with
the back plane plug. You may have to reach back behind the speedometer to give
the cable a nudge onto the speedometer, but mine just clicked right into place
as the pod was pushed back. <br>
<br>
The rest is handled by working backwards up this list till the front panel is
once again replaced. <br>
<br>
My luck was that most of these 25 steps were learned one at a time as I removed
and replaced the pod for each learning experience. Several times I had it almost
back together only to remember that I had neglected to reattach the speedometer
cable. Once I pressed back too hard and burned up several traces on the printed
circuit. The final (I thought) time I had gotten everything right and found I
had not wired the tempo gage correctly. The silver paint, wooden block, and
lubing the speedometer cable hints all were "take it apart again" learning
processes. <br>
<br>
I hope this saves someone a few hours as my installation took 7 hours.</span></p>
<p><span class="postbody">For additional information or questions please follow
this link to the related topic in electrical systems forum:<br>
<a href="http://elcaminocentral.com/ftopicp-160820.html#160820">FORUM LINK</a><br>
</span></p>

<p><span class="postbody">Written By:<br>
<a href="http://elcaminocentral.com/forum-userprofile-8751.html">Jim Isbell (JimIsbell)</a></span></p>
 
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