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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know that they can be rebuilt by cutting apart but is there a replacement charcoal canister for the 1985 El Camino? (Darby has recommended getting a late model one off a low mileage wreck and use the guts to rebuild It, which I may have to do) It has a GM 350 crate motor in it from Jegs with turbo 350 trans. When I had it in for new tailpipes the guy said he thought the smell of gas was due to the canister being spent. I noticed one of the plugs is cracked I'll replace that and check the rubber hoses to see if that could be the cause of the smell? The # on it is 17075849HC It has no computer hooked up and a Edelbrock 1406 I believe with a high rise manifold. Thanks! Rick ; )
 

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OG, if I recall and my thinking is right, there needs to be a few things properly hooked up. First component is the hose and steel line connection between the tank and charcoal canister. Next would be a sealed tank which would result in vapors being pushed toward the canister. In normal ops, the vacuum created by the engine would draw these vapors through the the canister. However, as indicated by the single hose connection at the top of the canister, your vapor entrapment and elimination appears to be a passive one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Does anyone have a pic of what the 85 E.C. charcoal canister should look like? That might help! Thanks! O.G. 🐐
 

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I have the canister off my 85. I used the recovery system off the 04 GTO when the LS1 was installed.. You can have it if you want it. No fume issues 5 years ago when removed but who knows?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have the canister off my 85. I used the recovery system off the 04 GTO when the LS1 was installed.. You can have it if you want it. No fume issues 5 years ago when removed but who knows?
That sounds promising! Thanks! (y) If your in no hurry to get rid of it once I check it all out this weekend I'll let you know. By chance do you know if it was hooked up like mine in the pics above? I don't know if that is corrector not? Later, Rick :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So I didn't realize that when the PO swapped engines they just deadened the hose at the charcoal canister! I found some pics online (1st. 2 pics, not my engine or canister) and it shows the capped end going to the engine or? :unsure: Will it work like capped off like this (my engine last 2 pics) or is there another route to take? Appreciate the input! Thanks again! Later, Rick :cool: 🐐
 

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It won't work without the connection to the engine. The canister stores the vapors from the tank, and the vacuum from the engine causes the canister to releases the fumes so they can be burned. While your canister is probably over-saturated, once connected to vacuum it should return to normal. You're missing a connection device where the canister would normally be plugged into ( You can see it in the second picture, sitting between the radiator hose and the alternator bracket) , but you should be able to "t" it into the line from the PVC valve back to the carb. That missing device sort of "controls" when the vacuum is allowed to work, and may be needed if the PVC line doesn't work.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It won't work without the connection to the engine. The canister stores the vapors from the tank, and the vacuum from the engine causes the canister to releases the fumes so they can be burned. While your canister is probably over-saturated, once connected to vacuum it should return to normal. You're missing a connection device where the canister would normally be plugged into ( You can see it in the second picture, sitting between the radiator hose and the alternator bracket) , but you should be able to "t" it into the line from the PVC valve back to the carb. That missing device sort of "controls" when the vacuum is allowed to work, and may be needed if the PVC line doesn't work.
That is most interesting! :unsure: Thanks for that! (y) I wasn't aware that it was not hooked up correctly until I started looking at other pics of 85 Emission controlled E.C.'s online. I will see if I can put something together this weekend! Fingers crossed! Thanks again! Later, Rick :cool: 🐐
 

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Just for info, I used to work in an industry that made large Commercial devices for cleaning up VOC's ( Volatile Organic Compounds) like Gasoline vapors. The media we used looked like black sand, but was actually a plastic pellet that had a chemical affinity to the VOC's. If you looked at the pellets under a microscope, you would see craters like the surface of the moon, where the VOC's would be held. They could hold about 100 times their weight in VOC's, but under a vacuum ( and only under a vacuum), they would release the VOC's, and we could then condense them back into a liquid for re-use or disposal. If they became saturated, and without relief from a vacuum source, any additional vapors would then be dispelled into the atmosphere, and this may be what is happening under our hoods.

I know some folks have used fish tank charcoal as a replacement media, and that may work, but nothing like the real thing. I suggest that anyone "rebuilding" a canister get a newer one from a wreck and use the media from that in your rebuild, as it was probably made specifically to trap gas vapors.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It won't work without the connection to the engine. The canister stores the vapors from the tank, and the vacuum from the engine causes the canister to releases the fumes so they can be burned. While your canister is probably over-saturated, once connected to vacuum it should return to normal. You're missing a connection device where the canister would normally be plugged into ( You can see it in the second picture, sitting between the radiator hose and the alternator bracket) , but you should be able to "t" it into the line from the PVC valve back to the carb. That missing device sort of "controls" when the vacuum is allowed to work, and may be needed if the PVC line doesn't work.
Would something like this do the trick? It would be simple if it would! :unsure: (y) (y)
611Tn+q2V6L._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 

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Those are stock PCV valves, especially the second one. If you tee into that line, going back to the carb, then it may work. If you don't have a PCV valve, get one! They are important to the engine, removing oil fumes that will turn to acid if not removed. Needs an inlet on the passenger side ( maybe the first one), and a PCV valve on the driver's side, pulling fresh air from the passenger side to the driver's side and out to the carb to be burnt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Those are stock PCV valves, especially the second one. If you tee into that line, going back to the carb, then it may work. If you don't have a PCV valve, get one! They are important to the engine, removing oil fumes that will turn to acid if not removed. Needs an inlet on the passenger side ( maybe the first one), and a PCV valve on the driver's side, pulling fresh air from the passenger side to the driver's side and out to the carb to be burnt.
Yes I have the PCV valve and the breather cap set up that way as mentioned. (I'll double check to be sure) So if I put in a T fitting in the one going to the carb it should work? :unsure:
 

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It should work, but the PCV valve is a "controlled" vacuum leak, meaning that it has a very small orifice that uses a small amount of vacuum. The canister should also use a small amount, but if it tries to draw too much vacuum, then you may experience some issues with how the engine is running. Worth a try. If it doesn't work, then you will need to add in a control device to limit the vacuum to the canister. I can lead you through that, as the TPI and later years had a small vacuum "switch" located in the line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It should work, but the PCV valve is a "controlled" vacuum leak, meaning that it has a very small orifice that uses a small amount of vacuum. The canister should also use a small amount, but if it tries to draw too much vacuum, then you may experience some issues with how the engine is running. Worth a try. If it doesn't work, then you will need to add in a control device to limit the vacuum to the canister. I can lead you through that, as the TPI and later years had a small vacuum "switch" located in the line.
O.K. I'll give that a shot this weekend! (y) So wherever the PCV hose is going that's the one I put the T in correct? (just to be sure) I should be able to notice any change in the engines performance I would think? :unsure: Appreciate the help! Thanks again! I'll keep you posted on how it goes! :cool: 🐐
 

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That should do it...
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yes I have the PCV valve and the breather cap set up that way as mentioned. (I'll double check to be sure) So if I put in a T fitting in the one going to the carb it should work? :unsure:
I just checked and that's how I set it up when I first bought it! It was reversed when I got it. I figured I'd replace the hose that goes down to the gas line from the canister while I'm at it. The plug was already cracking and the other hose looks original. Will gas come out of that fuel line when I remove the hose or just fumes was my guess? :unsure: Looks like approx. 5' of 5/16" rubber hose and 1 5/16" T fitting should do it! ;)(y):cool:
 
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