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Discussion Starter #1
I recently had an issue with my fuel pump so I replaced it. I have an 85 El Camino with what I believe is not the original engine. I have the wiring harness for a carb with an electric choke. About a week ago I bought a Rochester quadrajet with electric choke. I have a Holley 750 double pumper which is way way to much for my 305. I'm trying to get a little better gas milage.

I decided to finally try out the carb I bought. I took the Holley off and put the Quadrajet on and hooked up the electronics and vacuums and started her up. She ran better than ever. Smoother idle and all. Looked under the hood and gas was dumping out of the fitting that the gas line hooks to. I tightened it up and tried again and now I get nothing at all. It just cranks over but doesn't catch. I noticed when I took the fuel line off that the pressure was so strong that it came out like a sprayer.

since that didn't work. (I believe it's just vacuum lines) I put the Holley back on since she ran well just burned gas and if I step on the gas a little to much it wants to flood out and die. Since I have put the Holley back on she runs horrible. Rough rough rough running. Won't stay idling, and if it does for a sec it's rough. I get a weird smell and I notice the carb is smoking out of a port on the side. All vacuums are hooked up like they should, I replaced the carb mounting gasket, the fuel pump is new, plenty of gas in tank. I have no idea.

Has new alternator, starter, fuel pump, put oil in. Not running hot. Can't really tell since I don't have the gauge hooked up yet but it doesn't seem to run real hot. Oil looks fine.

also having an electrical issue. When I'm in the highway after about 20 minutes my electronics start to flick and my truck starts at cut in and out. What is strange is it's only after about 20 minutes of continuous driving. It does not happen in the city unless I hit abig bump. When the power flickers it doesn't effect the head lights
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Sorry forgot to add that she won't idle. Its like she is running out of gas and will stall. That seems to happen as soon as I let off the gas. I can keep it going if I go get it gas while holding the brake but it's at that point were I have the give it more gas than the brakes can handle. Also on highway seems to run fine.
 

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Electrical issue sounds like a bad ground. There should be a ground at the corner of the dash lower left side I think and a ground from the firewall to the block and a ground from battery to engine there may be more but this gives you a place to start. The fuel issue may be a blown power valve in the carb double check everything.
 

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Sounds like an issue with the carbs you have, are they fresh build, have you checked timing? I would say start fresh verify timing if you can and make sure both carbs are working as designed. that being said if fuel sprays out of the fitting as strong as you say it sounds like you have too high fuel pressure but without checking it with a gauge no way to know for sure.
 

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probly why Joe asked what kind of fuel pump..
there is a bunch of different kinds of mechanical fuel pumps,,
stock, hi-pressure, hi-flow,
even some stock ones can have too much pressure..

I asked about timing and a few other things in other threads also..
Or those carbs have been sitting around and everything has dried out and who knows where or what gasket/seat/seal is leaking internally. And I think you are on to other problems with the electrical end too. Other than that, my best suggestion is finding a good drive-ability tech nearby.

Joe
 

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I know the mid 80's had a basic computer on them is everything hooked up maybe it's not reading the tps sensor as well
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sadly it looks as though I am going to have to sell my El Camino. I don't have the knowledge to be able to fix it. I feel as though I am making her worse. She. Is running absolutely terribly. It was something I was hoping to learn but just cant and now after losing my job because of this coronavirus I no longer have any money to put into her. Extremely disappointed in myself.
 

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Hey diggs hate to see you give up and sell but sometimes you do what you have to do. Is it your daily or can you set it off to the side and come back when things improve?
 

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in your own words... " with what I believe is not the original engine. "
"ls having an electrical issue. When I'm in the highway after about 20 minutes my electronics start to flick and my truck starts at cut in and out. What is strange is it's only after about 20 minutes of continuous driving. It does not happen in the city unless I hit abig bump. When the power flickers it doesn't effect the head lights "

if not the original engine (certainly not an original carb), why couldn't the wiring have been messed with and 'replaced' also?

this vaguely reminds me of a similar story where the teller traced it down to firewall wiring that would get hot and droop and ground itself somewhere on the block.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes I believe it is the wiring. I had forgotten that when I was replacing my fuel pump, which is mechanical, I was having an issue with 2 brackets that were not connected to anything. When I went to bend the smaller one out of my way I severed some wires. Let's just say the. Negative wire almost melted itself to the battery and the piece of metal it was attached to. The power wire running from the battery to alternator got so hot it melted the plastic coating in the middle of the wire. I am now starting to believe that this has been my problem all along. I finally got her running and when I took her for a spin around the block all the interior lights were blinking badly and she was running like crap. What I don't understand is how that would directly effect the running of the engine. There is no part of the fuel pump, nor carb that is connected to the wire harness in any way. I can see the starter not wanting to work, and the alternator and the lights flickering on and off but i don't get what that has to do with the mechanics behind the engine itself. The other wires look fine so I'm going to try to replace my negative and positive battery wires and hook them up to the other terminals on my battery. I will let you guys know. I also have to deal with this damn starter that wants to move on me. Now somehow the outer housing it cracked. I just can't give up on my car. Not yet. I can fix anything. If I know what the issue is but diagnosing it. That's a whole new ballgame to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Also would the ECM delete be a good idea and I have an extra ECM from an 85 Monte Carlo. Should I try hooking that up? I just don't know what an ECM swap might do.
 

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""quote
What I don't understand is how that would directly effect the running of the engine.
There is no part of the fuel pump, nor carb that is connected to the wire harness in any way.
I can see the starter not wanting to work, and the alternator and the lights flickering on and off
but i don't get what that has to do with the mechanics behind the engine itself.""

your ignition system runs on electricity...
and 50% of all carb problems are ignition system related...
the electrical needs to be right for the car to work,, and not burn down...
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if the starter head is cracked, replace it..
try the salvage yard..
you can just swap the head out, if the parts starter is bad..
just compare the mount bolt pattern..

while you are working on the starter,,
check the fusible links on the starter connections...
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""quote
Also would the ECM delete be a good idea and I have an extra ECM from an 85 Monte Carlo. Should I try hooking that up? I just don't know what an ECM swap might do. ""

if you have a distributor with a vacuum advance ??
chances are its not for a computer, unless it's a 1980.5 and has the extra 4 wire connector..
and with out the computer carb,, the computer can't do anything..
there is nothing to control..
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The distributor. Thank you. That seems to be the one part I don't think about so I've been leaving it out of the equation. With that in mind seems I fried my alternator. Headed to get a new one. Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thank you all for your help. My problem is now solved. Come to find out when I let my sister Barrow my car so she could go haul some stuff for a few hours she let her boyfriend drive it and he ran off the road and onto a curb. It broke the starter housing and the power post was just shaking around. Thank you JJLT1 for mentioning the distributor. That led me to the issue and then I saw the housing sitting on the ground. Bingo. Also thank you all for following me and helping every step of the way. You know it does make it easier to keep track of just one post. LOL. Thank you all. Problem=power post on starter was broken Solution=new starter and readjusting the carbs.
 

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Thank you all for your help. My problem is now solved. Come to find out when I let my sister Barrow my car so she could go haul some stuff for a few hours she let her boyfriend drive it and he ran off the road and onto a curb. It broke the starter housing and the power post was just shaking around. Thank you JJLT1 for mentioning the distributor. That led me to the issue and then I saw the housing sitting on the ground. Bingo. Also thank you all for following me and helping every step of the way. You know it does make it easier to keep track of just one post. LOL. Thank you all. Problem=power post on starter was broken Solution=new starter and readjusting the carbs.
Yes, one post per problem helps. Also, if my car came back from someone borrowing it and not running right I would start by interrogating the borrower. Glad you found the problem!

Joe
 

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WTG Diggs
that would be the Power-Post on the Solenoid, on the Starter..
and not the housing or head or nose, that get broken too..
pics help a lot too..

some times all the problems are related..
if its all in 1 thread,
you wont have 5-6 threads going in 9 different directions..
if its your thread, it can go in many directions,
but its much-much easy-er to keep-up with..
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where is the Timing at ???
Ignition Timing makes a 100% difference on if and how well the motor runs...
 
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