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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm stumped the truck runs great one day then the next it will run ruff. When running good from a stop hit the gas all I get is power to the wheels it will run like that all day then the next it's not idling good and hesitates on acceleration. Once I'm going it's fine till I stop and go same thing on acceleration. I can't get the TPS to hold at .48v I'm between .36/.41v so that's one problem/ 6BTDC/920RPM'S AT IDLE. My idle same issue one day in park heated up it's at 920 rpm's this is when it's running fine. Next time it's idling at 840 and not steady 840/850/830 I'm not exact on this . I have tightened down the carb/intake manifolds/checked for bad connections/vacuum/new plugs wires are new filter is new carb rebuilt new engine I don't thing there's a sensor that hasn't been replaced.All new grounds. All new dist. with cap and rotor.
ECT. ECT. ECT.:dontknow::dontknow: I'M NOT SHOWING ANY CODES I'M CLEAN THERE.

O.k. here's what I'm doing today after I post this. I'm going to jack up the front end and take off both fender inter wells and check every wire/ground/plug wire/put all new vacuum lines/re-check every bolt fitting/connector every plug connector male and female for worn or broken wires inside the connector itself. I will check all battery wires starter wires. IF THERE'S A WIRE/VACUUM LINE IT'S GOING TO BE INSPECTED AND REPLACED IF NEEDED UNTIL I CAN'T SEE IT OR IT'S FIXED.

Next hopefully with your help I can get this issue resolved so I can put this to rest and move on in life:poke:
I think it's in the fuel/carb area but that's a guess OH NEW FUEL PUMP ALSO. I'm also going to take off my solid fuel line that is almost touching the block all the way down the front of the engine with a breaded line I can re-rough away from all that heat.


If this was a year ago I think I would have got a gallon of gas and torched it and walked away.

Off I go be back in a bit to check what's up here and take a break.

Here's my demeanor now:smileyb: will advise if any change occurs in the process:poke:
 
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Question #1! Why are you removing the fenderwells to check plug wires,vacuum lines,and grounds? Wouldn't it be easier to just raise the hood?:dontknow:

Question#2! Have you ran gas treatment in your tank after installing the new engine? Your fuel could have trash in it and could be getting past the carb filter,and into the new engine. Remember,a new engine picks up little things before a used one does. Also,I takes a few months or over a year in my case to work out the bugs of a new install.

Question#3! Could the oil or fuel pressure be dropping since its having this problem at idle?
 

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X-2 on why are you wanting to remove fenderwells-don't go there.
A few thoughts here, you mentioned tps sensor, could be going bad, it could have everything to do with eratic behavior. Computer electrical items are low voltage, which would be sensitive to a dirty or loose connector. Vacuum line cracks or an unplugged connection are more likely to be always making it run rough rather than eratic from 1 day to next.
So my best guess is electrical( computer related) connector that's weakened from age & R&R, bad tps, or possibly a new defective sensor. It's not always our fault. The basic design of an emission friendly computer controlled system is to be able to adjust for slight variences within the parameters of it's tune. Any item causing conditions outside of it's parameters becomes noticeable as not running correctly. Make sense?:dontknow:
Gallons of gas & matches are for P---Y'S, I know you're above that, but sometimes we just need to:let_it_all_out:.:beer:
 

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ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter #4
Question #1! Why are you removing the fenderwells to check plug wires,vacuum lines,and grounds? Wouldn't it be easier to just raise the hood?:dontknow:

Question#2! Have you ran gas treatment in your tank after installing the new engine? Your fuel could have trash in it and could be getting past the carb filter,and into the new engine. Remember,a new engine picks up little things before a used one does. Also,I takes a few months or over a year in my case to work out the bugs of a new install.

Question#3! Could the oil or fuel pressure be dropping since its having this problem at idle?
I'm checking everything and with an impact wrench it took maybe 20min to have it up and on stands and I can see everything with no effort. I have done it so many times I don't even take out the charcoal canister or vacuum ball just disconnect the hoses. I'm putting a new exhaust manifold gasket on the pass. side also the other one I already did just in case plus replacing and soldering all the taped up cut wires I have spliced back together the lazy ass way. When I restart trying to find out whats wrong I will know all vacuum lines ,electrical connection's and all gaskets and bolts are specked then I can concentrate on the issue knowing all the other stuff is up to snuff. Who knows it maybe a wire touching something or loose and I'll be done and not wasting more time chasing my tail on the wrong problem. It helps me to know and be able to ask for help and narrow down and isolate the problem correctly.


NOW DO YOU REALLY WANT ME TO ANSWER QUESTION #2:poke:
 
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Ooookkkkaaaayyyy....keep us informed bro! Just wondering why all the hard work is going on.:beer:
Answer#3!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey, maybe this guy just likes the work!!!! HKDUP, I hope you get your transmission leak fixed ASAP. I know how frustrating they are. I hate parking at work and leaving a puddle like my diaper broke :frown2: But hey--old cars are like old people, so it's easily forgiven.
It;s all good I'm going to the El Camino show down here tomorrow and I needed it straighten up some wires going behind the trans. and put new wire loom and polish up all the goodies. If you never have taken off the front tires and fender wells before you wouldn't know how much easier it is to get to things and see everything clearly from the fender well openings. I can see my complete engine wiring and vacuum lines and also the transmission housing where I'm leaking without having to get under the truck at all. I can sit on a bucket to do all the work. So in the long run it takes less time the way I do it plus I'm sitting most the time looking through the fender well. 1/2 HR. I'm up and running.:nanawrench::nanawrench::beer:
 

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ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Ooookkkkaaaayyyy....keep us informed bro! Just wondering why all the hard work is going on.:beer:
Answer#3!
I wasn't getting on you dude your way too cool. The problem is my truck is calif. smog have you ever seen under the hood of one of these? You cant even see the block just think of finding the spark plug holes. Look on the passenger side you can't hardly get a hand under there so what I do saves hours on something you do in ten min. with 8-plug wires and ignition wires. I get full access this way and saves time in the long run and i wouldn't do it without the impact wrench that's effortless on all bolts just sit down and go even the exhaust manifold bolts no work at all except torquing .. HAY NOW I'm pissed this smog crap's got to go.:poke:


 
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The only way to get to the rear plugs is to go thru the wheel wells, you can't even see the rear plugs on the right side. I can do it without removing the wheels, just jack it up until the wheels are off the ground.
 

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ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter #12
The only way to get to the rear plugs is to go thru the wheel wells, you can't even see the rear plugs on the right side. I can do it without removing the wheels, just jack it up until the wheels are off the ground.
Took me 24 years to figure that one out. I'm a little slow.:poke:
 

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ya know if ya move to :texas:you can trash all that stuff,,,,then you could see the plugs:beer:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I will tell you this much if for some reason it doesn't pass in April the next thread after that is what non-computer carb. do I need after the de-smoging burning party!!!!!!!:twisted:
 

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don't no why your replacing exhaust manifold gaskets?????? they havn't been used
for years....
X2 on the no gaskets, you'll always be replacing them. Did not have any from the factory.
Go metal to metal with a thin coat of (hylomar) probably spelled wrong, but that's what it,s for.:texas:
 
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