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You're pretty much going to have to cut it out and weld in new sheet metal.
 

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Deputy Director, Region 1
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Your pics won't enlarge. I'm guessing those are holes. You would need to remove the glass and cut out the bad and make patch panels. Weld them in. Then body work and paint.
If you live in a dry climate and the car isn't going to get wet anymore. You could use fiberglass reinforced bondo like gorilla hair or an aluminum reinforced filler like all-metal or metal to metal. Not nearly as good as patching but if it never gets wet, it'll last a year or two.
 

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VINTAGE MOTORHEAD
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Ditto what Sean posted. That is way too severe to patch up. Bite the bullet with new metal and it will last for many moons.
 

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U can try the por15 and por patch. I know its not as good as new metal, but an idea.
 

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Hey Jess
There is a 79 Camino at the upullit maybe you can cut some off it for yours ??
 

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VINTAGE MOTORHEAD
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Why use a "bandaid" and end up with a poor result and a cruck no one would want to buy? Living in Florida means it will be subjected to mucho humidity and many showers. Have you checked to see if anyone offers a correct repo panel for that entire area?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i found the center section (repo). but the really bad parts are on the side corners. and the only thing i found for that is the entire side sections. i dont have the resorces for all of that. Steve: i saw the one at upullit. it may not be out there by time i can get to it. i wont be around this weekend, so if its there next weekend i have a few things ill be looking for.
 

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Well you didn't mention your skill level so it's a bit hard to say. Can you remove the glass, cut out the bad, fabricate patches and weld? If yes then that's what you should do. If no...well then I think you can try filling it in. It's not going to last long but until you get some $$ together to do it right it'll slow the progression.
 

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I just had my body guy do the same repairs on my elky not as severe but pulled the back window sand blasted all the rust and did some metal repair for under $500 might be better to let someone else do it if your not a body man. He didn't paint it like new but I'll be doing a full paint on it after the drive train is finished.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
i used to work at a small paint shop, but it was mostly small dealership work. nothing really major like this. im not afraid to tackle this job, just dont have the resorces at the moment. so i kind of need a quick fix that will slow the rust, and seal everything to keep it from leaking any more. my floorboards arent going to last much more with all of the leaking.
 

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Like I said above fill it up and try to keep it dry. You might get a year + or - out it. Maybe by then you'll have what you need to do it right.
 

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If you are trying to patch and seal it till your money gets right, go get 3 cans of Great Stuff foam sealant and a roll of tape. You can scuff up the rust 1st then spry rust stop then tape up all the holes as best as possible on the outside then take the plastic strip on the back wall off (on inside) and do the same thing. Now that you have it all peeped and taped off poke a hole in the tape and squeeze the trigger on one side tape over the hole when done move to the other side and repeat. remember full from inside and tape over your hole let sit and cute for 2 day remove tape trim extra foam now you can prime it or run a thin coat of bondo then prime either way you have a cheap patch that works and will look good till your money is right to get the job done righ
 

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While not the ideal thing, Products like fiberglass reinforced filler areDESIGNED to be used for such projects. The key thing here is removing ALL rust from both sides of the metal.If such repairs are done correctly, then the only person that will know about it is the pissed off person 10 years from now stripping& repainting it.:shock:
Damn, didn,t know that was there.:let_it_all_out::whaasup:
Also, the usc all metal or evercoat metal to metal that Bobby mentioned is also a great first coat filler for properly repaired(welded) areas. Some professionals like to use it as a lead substitute.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
thanks for all of the help. i will prob do a patch job for now and go back and fix it rite when im able to.
 

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I'm in total agreement with everyone concerning replacing the metal. I'm no body guy but I could create a filler piece for that in an hour wit a small hammer and anvil. It would take me a lot longer to weld it in, grind it down, seal it, fill it and make it good for paint.

If you need a temp fix, wire brush it down (high speed). Let the wire brush knock off everything it will! Chunks of metal etc.... (these are/were too weak to keep). Then use long haired body filler to "rebuild" the surface. It would be nice if you could get something behind the holes to support the filler. I'd try anything I could stuff behind the holes. Bear cans, Styrofoam, paper sacks or news paper. You're not going to leave that crap there; you just don't want to keep putting filler down into the holes. With the long hair filler, use a body file while it's still pliable so you won't have to do too much sanding.

Then, as soon as you can... cut that #$%$ out and replace the metal!
 
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