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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone I am new to the thread and need some information. I own an 84 el camino, I am in the process of swapping a 1994 LT1 350 into it I will be running the original TH350C transmission.

My main question is, what would it take to make the rear end from a 1999 2wd s10 blazer (or any late model blazer with rear disc brakes) into my elco? I am aware that the 2wd s10 rears are only 54" instead of the gbody 58" rear ends. This could be offset with different backspacing of the wheels, correct?

The reason I am interested in this swap is because I found a guy nearby who is parting out a 2wd drive blazer, I know the front discs and spindles are a direct bolt in, but I want to know how much work it would be to build the s10 rear with a posi unit and beefier axles and drop it straight into the elco, that way I could have disc brakes all around as well as a decent rear end for a very reasonable price.

Thanks for the input.
 

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IMO there are much easier alternatives. It would take a lot of precise fabrication and mounting of brackets. It would be easier to find an 8.5 from a turbo Buick or 442 Olds and do an F body disc swap.
These guys have then for sale or you could post a wanted add. http://www.turbobuick.com/
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
alright thanks, i figured mounting the brackets would be too much of a pain but since its such a cheap alternative i thought id ask around and see. Thanks for the link they have some good deals on their website, i havent been able to find gbody rear ends anywhere for a decent price since i started looking.
 

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64-67 10/12 bolt GM rears are a bolt-in with custom upper control arms. they are 3/4" wider per side, which can be dealt with by diff backspacing on the wheels. here's a link (would be a good idea to use the complete kit with the stronger lower arms too)

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=8_60_68


those 10/12 bolt rears are stronger, easier to find, and there's lots of bolt on kits to put disc brakes on them

here's one

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/GM-10-and-12-Bolt-Bolt-On-Rear-Disc-Brake-Kit-w-E-Brake,36672.html

:poke:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
At your suggestion I searched my local craigslist and found a 10 bolt rear from a 64 chevelle for $175, if I were to buy this all I would need to make it fit are the control arms from the link you posted?
 

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that's right! if your current wheels have 4" backspacing, they should fit with no problems.

Another way to go on better rear brakes would be to switch to 65-75 full size GM car rear drum brakes. Those are 12 X 2 inches, as opposed to the A body 11 X 1.75". Direct bolt on swap! Be sure and change the backing plates too (have to remove axles to switch those, but you were gonna do that anyway to replace the axle seals, right?)

May need an adapter to mate SAE brake lines on the 10 bolt to metric lines on your elkie, but NAPA carries those for less than $10. Change the flex hose between rear end and body while you're at it.

:poke:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That definitely sounds like somthing I'll be looking into, and yes whatever rear end I end up buying I do plan to go through and rebuild it with new bearings, axles, seals, and posi unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You are correct the LT1 did come with an electronically controlled 4L60E transmission, but I was referring to my TH350C transmission as original because it is the transmission that came in my elcamino from the factory. Speaking of which are there any LT1 guys out there who know which flywheel to use when mating the TH350C to an LT1? I'm working on getting my engine and trans together and the holes for the original LT1 flywheel are too big to accomodate the torque converter bolts for the TH350C converter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the input but that link is for LS engines which are different from my LT1. Ive been searching the web for somone with my particular issue but i cant find any info. I guess a better questiopn would be is it ok to bolt my converter up to the existing flexplate if 2 of the 3 bolt holes are too large in diameter? 1 of the holes is the correct size and so the bolt will not move in the hole in the flexplate but the other 2 are too big and would allow the torque convertor bolts to wiggle is this a problem? If i run it like this am i going to break somthing?
 

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I wouldn't go with ANY bolts that don't fit the holes unless you look forward to having something jump up thru the trans tunnel and say "hi there! Sorry about all the blood! Some duct tape should put that foot back on!!!"

here's a link about LT-1 swaps into older vehicles, incl sources for all the answers you'll need

http://lt1swap.com/62impala.htm

this was from a site about engine swaps into jeeps. all their adapters for gen 1 SBCs and gen II SBCs are the same for each trans. That, along with the quote below, says that your TH350 will bolt up to your LT-1 with no problems. So go ahead and use the std sbc flywheel for a TH350.


1992 saw the introduction of the LT1 in the Corvette. Chevrolet entered the Generation II era. These engines featured aluminum heads, reverse flow cooling (cooling the heads first, in lieu of the block), and advanced electronic controls. However, these motors were still generally based on the classic Small Block design. The block-to-bellhousing bolt pattern was the same, as were engine mounts excepting the passenger side mount bosses, which were oriented in upside-down fashion. Versions were available with cast iron or aluminum heads.

:beer:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
A standard sbc flywheel will definitely work with my Lt1, I just need to verify the bolt hole diameter for the torque converter. I am concerned about this because my transmission is not a standard TH350 it is a TH350c lockup torque converter transmission and i dont know if those use different size bolts for the convertor. I think im going to email summit and verify the bolt hole diameter before I order one
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the suggestions, the B&M looks like a perfect candidate I think thats the one I'll be ordering
 

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heres a summit search for 94, gen2, LT1, 5.7,153 tooth..:texas:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/...ily/chevy-small-block-gen-ii-lt-based-engines

i dont know what the difference is?? but if you take out the LT1 gen2 you get more hits..
the b&m 20238 comes up for a 94 gen1 5.7 but not a LT1,, :dontknow:


the problem with putting a leaf spring rear in a 5 gen,, is welding brackets to the cast iron center section,,
lots a places makin rearend kits out there.. you can get just the housing,,some with disk breaks..
http://paceperformance.com/i-514610...ed-trac-loc-differential-and-drum-brakes.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
A regular flex plate will fit the LT1, im just concerned that the torque converter bolts on the lockup converter for my th350c are a strange size, ive read that gm made some of the torque converter bolts in the lockup transmission metric sizes. Im going to verify the bolt size tomorrow and order a flex plate asap.

Ive ssen lots of places to buy housings or complete rear ends but my problem is im on a very tight budget so a lot of things are out of my price range at the moment, but fortunately my existing 3.08 open rear end is in good shape however im definitely going to go posi as soon as i have the money
 

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Ive ssen lots of places to buy housings or complete rear ends but my problem is im on a very tight budget so a lot of things are out of my price range at the moment, but fortunately my existing 3.08 open rear end is in good shape however im definitely going to go posi as soon as i have the money
I know a lot of people will disagree with me but I researched this because I too am building a budget car. The 7.5 you have now can be built to work to your advantage. From what I was told, you should keep the gear ratio under 3:42. Go above that and you are asking for trouble! Most people weld the axle tubes where they meet the cast casing. An upgrade of studs for the main caps along with an aftermarket cover is supposed to help drastically. Several companies make reinforced aluminum covers. This helps with deflection. It keeps your gear set "set-up." A good aftermarket differential along with decent aftermarket axles and proper set-up and this will safe you a lot of money! Some people I spoke with also change the ends on these housings to a popular Ford end to have bolt in axles to eliminate the c-clips. I ended up doing the LS1 disc brake conversion. If a c-clip fails the calipers should retain the axles. Not ideal, but I don't have plans to run my car on the strip. I rebuilt my 7.5 for about $800 including the disc brake swap. I'm happy with it. I did some of it in stages so I didn't break the bank. Just some info.....
 

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KEYSER...
Have you ever thought about writing a book of your knowledge, it seems that evertime someone needs an answer to a perplexing question ,,,you have or find the answer.
I must say I'm proud to be a member of an orginazition that has the quality of member as youself.
thank you for helping us less knowledgeable out .
thanks again !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
jojo, you say you rebuilt your rear end for $800?! thats amazing and definitely could be in my price range a lot easier than fitting a 10 bolt or buying a new rear. Im definitely going to look into buying an old gbody housing for cheap to rebuild, I would rebuild the one I have but the car is meant to be a daily driver and i need to get it on the road asap and keep it there as much as possible.
 
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