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My drivers door seem to be sagging... one of my techs recommended replacing the pins in the door hinges?
 

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not a hard job but catch it before it eats into the body of the hinge. if you have let it go too far you may need to weld up the holes for the bushings to get a new fit. i have one on the bench i am doing for a friend who did just that. wore the hole all egg shaped and wouldnt hold the bushing tight . change the pin and both bushings in both hinges on the same door one at a time to make it easy to handle the door alone.if you do only one hinge the sloppy other one will wear the new one faster than normal
 

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A friend of mine told me his hinge was worn out and he got one off a 4 door. Their fronts are a lot lighter and don't tear up the hinge bodies like a 2 door does. Just an idea if yours are too far gone.
 

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A friend of mine told me his hinge was worn out and he got one off a 4 door. Their fronts are a lot lighter and don't tear up the hinge bodies like a 2 door does. Just an idea if yours are too far gone.

Everybody who goes to boneyards should pick up an extra set of top hinges ... off a 4 door G-body. Your friend, and you, are absolutely correct.
 

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If you acquire a set of 4-dr hinges, change the bushings before you install them. Hanging a Camino door is such a royal pain-in-the-butt, I'd want to do it only once per vehicle.

Bill
 

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I had the front end off of my 87 and decided that this was a good time to do mine. Found that the top hinge had a small weld bead at the top from the factory. Had to cut the weld to remove the hinge. Just in case the hinge won't move after removing the bolts.

Dave
 

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If you acquire a set of 4-dr hinges, change the bushings before you install them. Hanging a Camino door is such a royal pain-in-the-butt, I'd want to do it only once per vehicle.

Bill

The point of getting 4 door hinges is that they are not damaged and don't need to be repaired, because those doors on a four door weigh much less than those of a two door G body.
 

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I had the front end off of my 87 and decided that this was a good time to do mine. Found that the top hinge had a small weld bead at the top from the factory. Had to cut the weld to remove the hinge. Just in case the hinge won't move after removing the bolts.

Dave
Good point, Dave. I forgot that I had to chisel thru the weld bead a few years ago when I did mine. I did it with the fender on, so it was a real pain to get the hinge cut loose. It caught me by surprise, since I had done a few other G-body GM cars in the past and never had to deal with a weld bead.

Bill
 

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Is there a way to make door adjustments to the Driver's side without going thru the battle of pivot pin/busing replacements? Sounds like a lot of work and only the top pin seems a little sloppy causing the door to sag approximately 3/8". If the pin replacement is the best solution, can these be purchased at like an Advance Auto Parts store or ordered thru a Chevrolet dealer? Thanks, Ni
 

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This is a battle I'm going to have to face soon myself. But it looks like I'll need to be doing uppers and lowers.
 

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Is there a way to make door adjustments to the Driver's side without going thru the battle of pivot pin/busing replacements? Sounds like a lot of work and only the top pin seems a little sloppy causing the door to sag approximately 3/8". If the pin replacement is the best solution, can these be purchased at like an Advance Auto Parts store or ordered thru a Chevrolet dealer? Thanks, Ni
Yes, you can adjust the hinge to remove the slop, at least on a temporary basis.
Open the door and set up a hydraulic jack to support the door at the rear. Cushion the jack pad with a block of soft wood to both spread the load and protect the door. I also like to support the frame under the door opening with another jack or blocks. That way the body doesn't move when you are getting in and out. Carefully mark the position of the striker pin on the rear door jamb and remove it. Loosen the upper hinge at the pillar just enough to get some movement in the hinge. If the upper hinge is not worn very badly, you can usually leave the lower hinge tight, which will make the job much easier. Jack up the door a bit, maybe an inch or so, snug down the hinge bolts, lower the jack and check the door fit.
Repeat the process until you get the door aligned with the quarter panel. Once you're satisfied the door is aligned, replace the striker pin. Even if you marked it carefully, some minor adjustment of the pin may be necessary for smooth latching.
Post again if you have any problems.
Good luck!

BTW, pin and bushing kits are a stock item at most parts stores, usually about $5 per hinge.

Bill
 
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