[astro932]

so i have been doing a bit of work on my car and i need to replace the shocks.... that i instantly regret none of the bolts on any of them will have i have been letting them sit in penetrating oil and not a budge. any suggestions?

 

[80v6]

Shock replacement.

If your asking about removing them. a .5 inch breaker bar and 6 point sockets usually do the trick. Good luck.

 

[BillyJack]

If you're having issues with the front upper shaft nuts, (usually the most difficult ones), here's an old flat-rate mechanic's method: Put a deep socket on the longest extension bar you have, preferably 18 in. or longer. Slip it over the shaft and firmly on the nut. Pull it back and forth, bending the shock shaft until the shaft fatigues and breaks. Obviously this is only for situations when you're scrapping the old shocks. For the rear uppers, most of the too companies sell an L-shaped box wrench that makes life a bit easier, or you can heat and bend an old 1/2" box wrench.

Bill

 

[Keyser Sose]

remember folks,

mask off the shock shaft and you can paint the shocks any shade of orange you prefer. Duplicolor Ceramic engine paint in chevrolet orange is the color for cool people, if you're not using that, it doesn't really matter what color you paint them, or if you paint them at all. any color but orange is just second rate anyway.



http://i1028.photobucket.com/albums...in a 5th gen elco/2010_0616sidepanels0016.jpg


:nanawrench:

 

[astro932]

If you're having issues with the front upper shaft nuts, (usually the most difficult ones), here's an old flat-rate mechanic's method: Put a deep socket on the longest extension bar you have, preferably 18 in. or longer. Slip it over the shaft and firmly on the nut. Pull it back and forth, bending the shock shaft until the shaft fatigues and breaks. Obviously this is only for situations when you're scrapping the old shocks. For the rear uppers, most of the too companies sell an L-shaped box wrench that makes life a bit easier, or you can heat and bend an old 1/2" box wrench.

Bill

should i leave the bottom bolted in?

 

[ozzman3620]

you can torch the tops off. Done that once or twice. you can cut the shaft in between the coils with a sawzall too. If you have access to a big impact gun that'll usually do it. A grinder will also take the nut on top off. Sears sells nut splitters too that will split the nut off maybe. Or a small pipe wrench is always a fair option on everything I think. There are very few things an appropriately sized pipe wrench won't turn off. Any way you approach it good luck. :beer:

 

[jpmdaddy]

you can torch the tops off. Done that once or twice. you can cut the shaft in between the coils with a sawzall too. If you have access to a big impact gun that'll usually do it. A grinder will also take the nut on top off. Sears sells nut splitters too that will split the nut off maybe. Or a small pipe wrench is always a fair option on everything I think. There are very few things an appropriately sized pipe wrench won't turn off. Any way you approach it good luck. :beer:

When I read posts like this I feel SO LUCKY to be in Texas where you can unbolt stuff thats 20-30 years old....

You guys up north definately have a more challenging time of it.. :You_Rock:

 

[BillyJack]

should i leave the bottom bolted in?

The shock doesn't really care. you can do either top or bottom first.
Let us know how things go for you.

Bill

 

[JimCamino]

Aaron,

If they don't budge you're in luck, because you can just snap them off as suggested. I usually find that the shaft turns with the nut and wind up cutting them off.

Jim