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Discussion Starter #1
Converting my power drum to front disc (with 15" wheels) on my 68 El Camino Custom (327 engine). Plan on getting a Right Stuff kit and keeping the stock height. For "normal" driving, what style of rotor should I be looking to get? Advantages and disadvantages of both? Are the Right Stuff standard rotors solid or vented?
 

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I have the Right Stuff kit on the front of my 70 EC and also converted from all power drums. I had a choice and went with cross drilled and slotted front disks and got red powder coated calipers for free. With plain rotors, I would have needed to pay extra for the red calipers.

The kit assembly was easy and I have had zero trouble with it. Its using DOT 5 silicone brake fluid and again, no trouble.

What did cause me difficulty was my choice to go with all new stainless brake lines. I had trouble getting some of the fittings to stop leaking and finally gave up on the left rear and replaced that line with an original mild steel line. No trouble since then.

Rick

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For regular driving, you'll probably not notice any difference. They are nice eye candy, though. I replaced my solid front rotors with slotted because I got a good deal on them, but there was no noticeable improvement. However, slotted and drilled do help with heat dissipation, but unless you're autocrossing, you'll probably never get your standard rotors so hot where you start having brake fade issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the input. With it and a little more research, I have decided to use the AFXDCO6C Right Stuff kit with standard rotors.
 

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I don't turn rotors, I get new ones. I like my pedal to be on the top. This makes no sense with a disc set up but for some reason, when I turn rotors the pedal seems to go down further when stopping. I have a stock, disk/drum, 69 el Camino.

Adding the Porterfield pads and shoes really transformed my braking system. I think having the same material on the rear shoes as I have on the front pads makes the braking system work better.
 

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I stand corrected.

when I was a young grasshopper parts counter guy, I was told not to accept drilled or slotted because there was a risk of the cutting tip snagging and edge. Pretty much the reason the article says to take lighter passes.

$1 says most places will refuse to turn them. The shop that will turn them will charge more than a new one cost but..............
you wouldn't believe how much runout some rotors have right out of the box. That was another life lesson as a young parts counter guy lol. A guy comes in to purchase and ask me to turn them before he takes them. i laugh and say they are brand new. Threw them on the lathe and was shocked that they were worse than some of the used rotors that came in.
 

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Yep. Just because they're new don't mean they're true.

Also very few lathes and adapters are true.
 

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I stand corrected.

when I was a young grasshopper parts counter guy, I was told not to accept drilled or slotted because there was a risk of the cutting tip snagging and edge. Pretty much the reason the article says to take lighter passes.

$1 says most places will refuse to turn them. The shop that will turn them will charge more than a new one cost but..............
you wouldn't believe how much runout some rotors have right out of the box. That was another life lesson as a young parts counter guy lol. A guy comes in to purchase and ask me to turn them before he takes them. i laugh and say they are brand new. Threw them on the lathe and was shocked that they were worse than some of the used rotors that came in.
yeah, I'd be kinda leery about turning slotted/drilled myself.

I delivered a 'premium' set from my store to a commercial customer a month ago, one of them hadn't been turned enough and wouldn't bolt flush. made the rotor sit proud by a few thousandths.
 

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The rotors I buy from e-Bay are guaranteed to be under a real acceptable tolerance. I forget what it is. Both sets I bought from them were perfect. My machinist was surprised at how straight they were.... I always have my machine shop check them out before using them..
 

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I always have my machine shop check them out before using them..
you're lucky to have a machine shop. almost no such beast around the Austin area without having to drive 30-40 miles to a knowledgeable shop that you can trust and doesn't charge an arm&leg because they know there's no one else around
I have O'Reilly turn rotors and drums but anything else requires a drive
 

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I never would of thought Texas was like that with all the gear heads that live there.. Pittsburgh still has a lot of it industrial shops..
 

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depends on your locale. Large cities like San Antonio/DFW/Houston have them, small communities have them. Austin has gone hi-tech, just doesn't have a lot of industry like that.
 
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