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Staring at the electrical.....

5K views 44 replies 8 participants last post by  greywolf 
#1 ·
So after finding a donor 05 Escalade motor, trans, ecm, under hood relay and fuse center, gas pedal & tac module. (did I forget anything?)
Now in spite of my previous experience doing wiring in previous projects I have no idea where to start....
A) what all in the original wiring, ecm and any no longer will be used electrical components can I get rid of? Will I need any thing at all from or to do with the original 83 ecm?
B) in spite of having plenty of resources available about finding how to make a stand alone harness for my swap, I don't want to forget a component, electronic device, do-hicky or whatever I may forget about for my particular motor/trans/ecm swap.
C) I bought the E.C. with all things related to and the gauge pod/panel/indicator lights missing, nothing but the speedo cable staring me in the face, so going Dakota digital, how do i figure that in?
D) I want to use the A/C again, I plan on eventually installing a Bluetooth audio/video center that can be tied into an alarm. So I don't know if what I want is going to be considered a stand alone harness or an integrated (?) one.
I'm assuming im building/assembling/getting the harness integrated into my E.C.?
I plan on writing down from the 83 E.C. schematic any components, circuits, systems etc I plan on keeping or using now or down the road and then cut anything I won't be using out. Then get my eng/trans harness situated into it?
I'm really picky about how wiring looks, I like things with correct connectors, wrapping etc. I tend to overthink wanting perfection and usually forget something simple. Now is the time since I'm sitting here stuck at home (oh bummer I get to work on the E.C. All the time) to get some things I've been putting off on this project and I'm never one to just throw money at a problem. So hit me with any suggestions, what I may forget, don't want to forget, etc.
Contructive criticism is fine too I'll take all the info and feed back I can get.
 
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#2 ·
Hello,

I pulled every wire from my original 1970 350 engine out and started fresh in the engine bay with my LS swap - this seemed simpler. I used a standalone wiring harness and relay center from "PSI Conversions".

The fuse center out of the 1999 GMC donor truck was way, way too bulky for what I wanted in my engine compartment so I discarded it and ran power support for my engine from an all new American Auto Wire "Classic Update" fuse panel that fit in place of my original fuse center in the firewall up and left of the brake pedal. My original 1970 wiring and insulation was crumbling so I had to do this but your wiring might be OK. You be the judge here.

My powertrain control module (512k bytes, P01 style) sits on top of my glove box under the dash cover. The location of your ECM / PCM will highly dictate the routing of your wiring harness. I did not want it exposed under the hood and atop the glove box seemed like a logical place. It runs plenty cool enough there and its less messy with wiring under the hood.

I'm no expert on your 1983 ECM but my gut feeling is that you won't need it.

What transmission? 4L60E perhaps? Lets hope not a 4L80E because of its large size. Did you get its drive shaft?

How do you plan to control Torque Converter Clutch lockup and unlock with your transmission?

Which engine? 6.0 liters?

Let's get the engine and trans running before getting too concerned about A/C and car audio.

You realize that the donor PCM is going to need reprogramming before we can think about starting the engine? Who will be doing that for you? What software tool . . . "HP Tuners" or perhaps something else less expensive? Maybe "LS Droid" and "Tuner Pro RT" for you? These are free tools but will require you to build an inexpensive OBD2 bench wiring harness and find a three amp, 12 volt DC power supply.

I'm sure I've forgotten something but let's hear if this helps you at all?

Rick
 
#6 ·
Thanks Rick.
I will be looking into American auto wiring and what all they may have to offer & still considering where to put the ecm but yours sounds like a good spot.
The trans is supposed to be a 4L60E (4L65E maybe by 05). The motor itself is the 5.3 and had not considered the lock up switch yet. Is that the switch that takes it out of O.D. That would normally be at the end of the gearshift lever on a truck?
I did remember to tell the salvage to get the driveshaft too.
I was aware of the reflash needed and will do nothing else and use the factory tune profile until things are all in working properly and the gremlins worked out but like hearing about L. S. Droid and tuner pro RT. Will be checking those out as well.
Thanks Rick.
 
#3 ·
So after finding a donor 05 Escalade motor, trans, ecm, under hood relay and fuse center, gas pedal & tac module. (did I forget anything?)
Now in spite of my previous experience doing wiring in previous projects I have no idea where to start....
A) what all in the original wiring, ecm and any no longer will be used electrical components can I get rid of? Will I need any thing at all from or to do with the original 83 ecm?
B) in spite of having plenty of resources available about finding how to make a stand alone harness for my swap, I don't want to forget a component, electronic device, do-hicky or whatever I may forget about for my particular motor/trans/ecm swap.
C) I bought the E.C. with all things related to and the gauge pod/panel/indicator lights missing, nothing but the speedo cable staring me in the face, so going Dakota digital, how do i figure that in?
D) I want to use the A/C again, I plan on eventually installing a Bluetooth audio/video center that can be tied into an alarm. So I don't know if what I want is going to be considered a stand alone harness or an integrated (?) one.
I'm assuming im building/assembling/getting the harness integrated into my E.C.?
I plan on writing down from the 83 E.C. schematic any components, circuits, systems etc I plan on keeping or using now or down the road and then cut anything I won't be using out. Then get my eng/trans harness situated into it?
I'm really picky about how wiring looks, I like things with correct connectors, wrapping etc. I tend to overthink wanting perfection and usually forget something simple. Now is the time since I'm sitting here stuck at home (oh bummer I get to work on the E.C. All the time) to get some things I've been putting off on this project and I'm never one to just throw money at a problem. So hit me with any suggestions, what I may forget, don't want to forget, etc.
Contructive criticism is fine too I'll take all the info and feed back I can get.
Funny you have an 05 Escalade motor, mine is too! LS1swap.com was the most useful site for me. After getting my harness done I sent my computer to Brendan to un-lock it and delete the VATS and all other un-necessary stuff. After getting it running it was easy to find a local tuner to get it to idle with the new cam. Your A/C will operate fine after deleting the original computer, there are a few wires to delete and connect out of the loop but pretty simple. The heater valve will have to be a by-pass type, I found a 99 C10 valve worked perfectly. The gas pedal is pretty simple but you will need a welder or a friend with a welder. I can show you that one when you get to it.

I can not praise the Dakota Digital dash enough! That one large investment has been the best money spent so far! Best part is if you go with the 4L60E and use the TSS, the hole for the speedo cable is perfect for the TAC module plug to seal the hole, no mod necessary!

Feel free to hit me up, I've been there done this and wish I had this site before I had mine running!

Joe
 
#13 ·
Funny you have an 05 Escalade motor, mine is too! LS1swap.com was the most useful site for me. After getting my harness done I sent my computer to Brendan to un-lock it and delete the VATS and all other un-necessary stuff. After getting it running it was easy to find a local tuner to get it to idle with the new cam. Your A/C will operate fine after deleting the original computer, there are a few wires to delete and connect out of the loop but pretty simple. The heater valve will have to be a by-pass type, I found a 99 C10 valve worked perfectly. The gas pedal is pretty simple but you will need a welder or a friend with a welder. I can show you that one when you get to it.

I can not praise the Dakota Digital dash enough! That one large investment has been the best money spent so far! Best part is if you go with the 4L60E and use the TSS, the hole for the speedo cable is perfect for the TAC module plug to seal the hole, no mod necessary!

Feel free to hit me up, I've been there done this and wish I had this site before I had mine running!

Joe
Joe. So glad you chimed in and I'm sure you'll get a P. M. or two from me and Thank you so much for the offer. A few more three lettered things (Tac, Tss,) for me to look up and know. I will note that c-10 part. And luckily have a little wire feed welder for that pedal bracket.
 
#4 ·
Hello Again,

Plus a dozen votes for Joe's advice about Dakota Digital gauges. I have their HDX type and love it.

Engine mounts? I went with all Holley parts for frame mounts, headers and oil pan. Truck and presumably the Escalade oil pan might be too deep and hang too low beneath your vehicle. Between my Holley forward bias frame mounts and the Holley 302-2 oil pan, I wound up with good driveline angles to the differential, needed no floor pan surgery for my 4L60E to clear and no steering interference at the front of the pan. The Holley frame mount mates perfectly with a 2002 Camaro F-body engine mount.

I needed the Hooker / Holley Blackheart headers to clear my A-body frame rails. The LS engine original exhaust manifolds were too wide to fit inside my frame rails.

I also needed the one inch smaller power steering pump pulley from an S10 Chevy truck. This pulley fits the LS engine pump shaft perfectly while also being small enough to clear the steering gear box.

I'm also running a Cold Case LS Swap radiator and electric fans. This puts both radiator pipes on the passenger side for best mating to my truck water pump. I'm not sure what style of water pump the Escalade but I predict you will likely need a different radiator.

Rick
 
#5 ·
Motor mounts are everywhere, the Holley kit looks good and the oil pan gives better ground clearance. I have the Dirty Dingo mounts and a G-Force crossmember. The PS pulley I used is from a V6 Pontiac Aztek, probably the same as the S-10 but it's still tight and the mounts are all the way to the rear. If I were to do it again I would research the Camaro and other drive systems, (which use a different water pump) but I made it work pretty good. The Escalade uses the same water pump as the trucks. The radiator is a Champion with the fitting for the heater hose re-purposed for the steam line and has the upper hose fitting on the left but the truck upper hose fits good. As far as headers go I used the Hedman Husler mid length, but it did cause a problem with the factory column shifter (which will work with the 4L60E) so I used a B&M Megashifter. There's probably more ways to do this than we can ever discuss but I can say for a fact, while running out for Pizza Hut take out a bit ago, this car makes me smile every time I hit the gas, it goes from everyday driver mode to absolutely possessed in nano-seconds!

Joe
 
#7 ·
You will not get very far using the "as shipped" factory tune inside your donor PCM. At the very least, a single system in that operating system called "VATS" - Vehicle Anti Theft System - must be disabled. Otherwise, the engine will not start because you are not using the expected ignition key inside the steering column. After that, your vehicle will throw many Check Engine Lights and trouble codes for the missing EVAP, EGR, Fuel System, Catalytic Converter Overheat and rear O2 sensors, and others I can't remember. Your tire height will also need to be calibrated to keep your speedometer and odometer accurate. Its best to kill off / defeat / disable and change these things all at once inside your PCM.

I highly, highly recommend finding another PCM of your type in the junk yard as a spare. Around here, they are $38 and it is good insurance in case you "brick" one though that has not happened to me yet. I have one "0411" type installed, plus another 0411 and two of the "896" variety tuned and sitting on a shelf. The only benefit to the 0411 over the 896 is that the 0411 logs parameter ID's slightly faster than the 896. And the only reason I have four of these is that I picked them up for cheap on half price sale days.

Don't remove the original stickers on these PCM boxes because they tell your tuner person a lot about the hardware guts inside each device. Its the last 3-4 digits in the "Service Number" that I'm referring to here.

The PCM controls lockup of the TCC but you need a secondary switch built into the brake pedal switch to command unlock. Its takes a roughly $23 plus shipping switch from PSI Conversions.

Rick
 
#8 ·
You will not get very far using the "as shipped" factory tune inside your donor PCM. At the very least, a single system in that operating system called "VATS" - Vehicle Anti Theft System - must be disabled. Otherwise, the engine will not start because you are not using the expected ignition key inside the steering column. After that, your vehicle will throw many Check Engine Lights and trouble codes for the missing EVAP, EGR, Fuel System, Catalytic Converter Overheat and rear O2 sensors, and others I can't remember. Your tire height will also need to be calibrated to keep your speedometer and odometer accurate. Its best to kill off / defeat / disable and change these things all at once inside your PCM.

I highly, highly recommend finding another PCM of your type in the junk yard as a spare. Around here, they are $38 and it is good insurance in case you "brick" one though that has not happened to me yet. I have one "0411" type installed, plus another 0411 and two of the "896" variety tuned and sitting on a shelf. The only benefit to the 0411 over the 896 is that the 0411 logs parameter ID's slightly faster than the 896. And the only reason I have four of these is that I picked them up for cheap on half price sale days.

Don't remove the original stickers on these PCM boxes because they tell your tuner person a lot about the hardware guts inside each device. Its the last 3-4 digits in the "Service Number" that I'm referring to here.

The PCM controls lockup of the TCC but you need a secondary switch built into the brake pedal switch to command unlock. Its takes a roughly $23 plus shipping switch from PSI Conversions.

Rick
All of this was fixed when I sent my computer to Brendan at LT1swap.com. $75 bucks and returned in 3 days ready to run and get tuned. Lock-up is easy and will be controlled by the 05 model computer and can be tuned, mine is set at 42mph to keep the car from bucking to the cam lope. If your car had a 2004r trans you will already have the lock-up control wire at your column. If not all that is needed is to install a brake switch from a 2004r equipped car and attach 1 wire and done.

Joe
 
#9 ·
I agree with Joe about using Brendan at LT1Swap.com. He does good work at a very good price and has an excellent reputation. I'm simply a nerdy tinkerer and wanted to learn how to do it myself. Big however, I did not like paying the rate for this to get an HP Tuners skilled person to do it after paying it for my first two 896 PCMs. Finding that guy locally and taking him my PCM's also got old but he did do good work at a fair price.

Once LS Droid came online dependably for reading/writing and I learned enough about how Tuner Pro RT works, it was a simple matter to build a bench OBD2 harness and find a three amp power supply. Now I can play "Doctor Frankenstein" with the operating system in any of my PCMs for free.

Rick
 
#12 ·
For us guys that are more mechanical and very much computer illiterate Brendan is the guy to go to! I have learned a lot about the process but still don't know enough to do it myself. I drove my car to a local tuner. Yea, the price was pretty high but the re-tune price if I need to is pretty cheap!

Joe
 
#17 ·
When I did my 79 my harness fix it guy told me to get an 06 Monte Carlo pedal. It fit with 1 hole to drill. The bottom hole lines up with the existing bottom hole in a 5th gen. Drill the top hole and pedal is done.
ACDELCO 25830024
 
#20 ·
So after finding a donor 05 Escalade motor, trans, ecm, under hood relay and fuse center, gas pedal & tac module. (did I forget anything?)
Now in spite of my previous experience doing wiring in previous projects I have no idea where to start....
A) what all in the original wiring, ecm and any no longer will be used electrical components can I get rid of? Will I need any thing at all from or to do with the original 83 ecm?
B) in spite of having plenty of resources available about finding how to make a stand alone harness for my swap, I don't want to forget a component, electronic device, do-hicky or whatever I may forget about for my particular motor/trans/ecm swap.
C) I bought the E.C. with all things related to and the gauge pod/panel/indicator lights missing, nothing but the speedo cable staring me in the face, so going Dakota digital, how do i figure that in?
D) I want to use the A/C again, I plan on eventually installing a Bluetooth audio/video center that can be tied into an alarm. So I don't know if what I want is going to be considered a stand alone harness or an integrated (?) one.
I'm assuming im building/assembling/getting the harness integrated into my E.C.?
I plan on writing down from the 83 E.C. schematic any components, circuits, systems etc I plan on keeping or using now or down the road and then cut anything I won't be using out. Then get my eng/trans harness situated into it?
I'm really picky about how wiring looks, I like things with correct connectors, wrapping etc. I tend to overthink wanting perfection and usually forget something simple. Now is the time since I'm sitting here stuck at home (oh bummer I get to work on the E.C. All the time) to get some things I've been putting off on this project and I'm never one to just throw money at a problem. So hit me with any suggestions, what I may forget, don't want to forget, etc.
Contructive criticism is fine too I'll take all the info and feed back I can get.
Spend the money and go with a Painless wiring kit. It will save time, money in the long run, and be functional when you are done.
 
#21 ·
The painless products are nice and come with a price. I used the factory truck harness and was actually fun to do it my self, even better when it actually started!!! I learned a lot taking that route and would do it again in a heartbeat. Sad part is with all I learned I would do a few things different but that is a project for another day.

Joe
 
#25 ·
I have extensive lists of the various "DTC" trouble codes, Check Engine Light / Malfunction Indicator Light aspects that must be defeated and other things in the system that must be manipulated in some way or another. Some things are modified while others are killed off completely and these vary a little with the age and complexity of the PCM. The older 512 byte P01 PCM's are easier while the later, more complicated 1 megabyte P59 PCM boxes are harder.

Its a lot to post here but I will do so or send it direct to you in a PM, if desired.

Rick
 

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#26 · (Edited)
Hello,

Here you go with what DTC's I initially deal with. These need to be turned off in the "DTC" area and the "Diagnostic Area". Some, like the EGR system, can be turned off within the "System Area"

The Vehicle Anti Theft System usually has it own area. Vehicle speedometer accuracy is handled with differential gear and tire height changes in the "Speedometer" area and there's some basic math required here in the tuning package I use.

It is entirely possible that you will miss making a few of these changes the first time you dive into the operating system. At least with VATS disabled, you can get the engine started to then use your fault code scanner to see what you missed and then go back into the PCM and write a few more changes.

I recommend making an archive copy of each operating system file change that you make. Be very methodical here so that you always have a file to fall back on if something goes wrong. Buying a junk yard secondary "play time PCM" to work on is also recommended. Its cheap insurance.

Rick


For O2 Sensors:
P0137 P0157

P0138 P0158

P0140 P0160

P0141 P0161

The EVAP codes:

P0440 Evaporative Emission System

P0442 Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (small leak)

P0443 Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit

P0446 Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit

P0449 Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit Intermittent

P0452 Evaporative Emission System Pressure Sensor/Switch Low

P0453 Evaporative Emission System Pressure Sensor/Switch High

P1441 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Flow During Non-Purge

P1665 EVAP Vent Solenoid Control Circuit

The seven EGR codes:

P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow

P0402 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected

P0404 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Excessive Detection

P0405 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Circuit Range/Performance

P1404 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Closed Position Performance

P1406 EGR Valve Pintle Position Circuit

P1409 EGR Vacuum System Leak

On some donor PCM’s there are five Secondary Air Injection codes, your PCM may be a little bit different:

P0410 Secondary Air Injection System

P0412 Secondary Air Injection Switching Vavle A Circuit

P0418 Secondary Air Injection System Control A Circuit

P1415 Secondary Air Injection (AIR) System Bank 1

P1416 Secondary Air Injection (AIR) System Bank 2

On some donor PCM’s there were six Fuel Level Sensor codes, your PCM may be a little bit different:

P0461 Fuel Level Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance

P0462 Fuel Level Sensor A Circuit Low

P0463 Fuel Level Sensor A Circuit High

P1431 Fuel Level Sensor 2 Circuit Performance

P1432 Fuel Level Sensor 2 Circuit Low Voltage

P1433 Fuel Level Sensor 2 Circuit High Voltage

On some donor PCM’ there are two Catalyst System codes, your PCM may be a little bit different:

P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

P0430 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
 
#27 ·
Been pushing forward in spite of some setbacks ill put on the build thread when I get a chance to but LS specific.... Questions.... (Joe or Rick maybe?) while doing my pin removal/addition isolation part of my harness (5.3 lm7 and 869 ecm) using Brandon's chart for 99 to 02 Truck, on the blue connector. #'s 32,34 and 72. Are these for an electronic PRND21 indicator or cruise maybe? Not sure what the tan highlights are on the chart mean. Amd Pin #41 highlighted in red and says "sensor ground (trans and cts) with isolate ground o2" is only one that does not match color given (blk) mine is Grey. Don't know what to make of it or if it's no big deal but I left it.
On the red connector Pin#52 is supposed to be a Grey wire shown to be for the Generator field duty cycle (regulates alt?). There was no wire there at all.
If nothing else was gonna throw a note in the box when I send the ecm in. Any takers on this one?
 
#28 ·
Just going by your original post and hopefully I didn't miss something, you say you are using Brendan's 99-02 chart? If I'm right you are using the wrong chart, the 05 you mentioned in the original post is very different from a 99-02 harness. Are you sure you have an 05? Something is very wrong if you have an 05 motor with a red connector. Is your throttle body drive by wire(DBW) or does it have a fitting for a throttle cable(DBC)?

Joe
 
#30 ·
Ok, I missed that part! So now you're going with DBC. These things make a difference. Sadly, I am more used to the DBW harness. There are work-arounds for every thing you can imagine. I had some problems while using Brendan's site but there was always a spot to help me. It was amazing that the site had a few glitches but with enough searching I found my answers! Everything I needed was hidden in some odd-ball place! But worked out.

So, you're working with DBC now?

Joe
 
#31 ·
Yes. Bdc on this one, would of helped to mention it, my bad. I've gotten quite the lesson on the woes of finding a powerplant locally for a decent price that's not a boat anchor, I think if I follow the pin chart, keep digging on what others have found and stick to the bullet points I can get it to run or see if it will since it's been sitting awhile. Under a cover but sitting.
 
#32 ·
Hello,

I'm used the same chart for my swap even though it was a purchased harness. Blue pin numbers 32, 34 and 72 appear to feed the electronic dash on those model year trucks and won't be needed on our vehicles - we don't have that dashboard. Red pin 41 is an EGR ground and should not be necessary because you will likely be deleting EGR - remove that pin and wire.

Red pin 52 is likely the Terminal F alternator wire available on the later trucks for PCM control of the alternator duty cycle - for better fuel economy. Your alternator will work just fine without that wire and pin but will throw a DTC code for P1638 which will be a nuisance that can be disabled inside the DTC list.

Rick
 
#34 ·
Yes, what Rick said.

Did you get the trans with the motor?

I just started another one myself. Got lucky finally. Stashed some cash a while back and been checking Craigslist for a couple years and scored a LQ4 6.0 last weekend. just the motor, found a harness and computer and started stripping the conduit and tape yesterday until my fingers started hurting. You will probably get done way before me since I don't even have something to put this one in yet.
Auto part Engine Automotive engine part

Auto part Engine Automotive engine part Vehicle


Sounds like you're going pretty good so far, as I mentioned before I had a bunch of questions like you but hadn't found this place until I already had mine running. I did finally find everything on my own but would have been nice to get here a couple years earlier! Good luck!

Joe
 
#36 ·
Hello,

You will need one O2 wire for the drivers side - aka "Bank 1". Sensor 1 here is for the O2 sensor that would have been in front of the catalytic converter.

You will need one O2 wire for the passenger side - aka "Bank 2". Sensor 1 here is for the O2 sensor that would have been in front of the catalytic converter.

The Sensor 1 wiring locations are nearer the engine, hotter and are better for oxygen sensor operations.

Sensor 2 wiring for either side is not needed because they are for an O2 location after the catalytic converter. You only need one O2 sensor per side and any Sensor 2 wiring would be wasted.

Brendan at LT1Swap.com will know the proper list of DTC's to disable in your tune - each operating system DTC list is slightly different. I can post my complete list here for you but it is extensive. Please let me know if you want my complete list posted here or maybe sent to you in a PM.

Rick
 
#37 ·
Hello,

You will need one O2 wire for the drivers side - aka "Bank 1". Sensor 1 here is for the O2 sensor that would have been in front of the catalytic converter.

You will need one O2 wire for the passenger side - aka "Bank 2". Sensor 1 here is for the O2 sensor that would have been in front of the catalytic converter.

The Sensor 1 wiring locations are nearer the engine, hotter and are better for oxygen sensor operations.

Sensor 2 wiring for either side is not needed because they are for an O2 location after the catalytic converter. You only need one O2 sensor per side and any Sensor 2 wiring would be wasted.

Brendan at LT1Swap.com will know the proper list of DTC's to disable in your tune - each operating system DTC list is slightly different. I can post my complete list here for you but it is extensive. Please let me know if you want my complete list posted here or maybe sent to you in a PM.

Rick
Thanks Rick. A pm would be fine.
 
#41 ·
Thought I'd update a bit. Went through the harness, de pinning, pulling wires, fixing ends and slightly re routing, covered it with mesh type cover instead of using all convoluted type, added a fuse/relay center. All reinstalled on engine. Engine and trans installed without accessories yet but was pretty easy cause we took the front clip off too. I used imca universal type engine mounts (I'll try to get a Pic up of these, I've used them before in other projects, simple and give you a little adjustment up and down AND back and forth) with icm plates. Added the 87 4.3 sending unit to the tank with a walbro 255 pump, corvette regulator/filter. By passed the fuel rail regulator and capped the return.
Once I got the tank and fuel system tested and felt confident in it I put power to the ecm and starter and Varoom! Started right up, running smooth. Well for 40 to 45 seconds anyway. Wanted to make sure the engine was indeed going to run before going further. Now for the accessories, rad/fans, exhaust, front clip back on, driveline etc. But let me tell you as an old school Chevy small block guy, what a great feeling to turn an engine over, it start immediately and run great, no backfire, no retoothing the dizzi, no carb adjusting. Dam good feeling. So a big ole Thank you to everyone, I'm not done yet but at least up and running. Yes!!
 
#44 ·
Mine had sat around quite a while (3 years) and didn't just start right up. The injectors were a bit stuck, so when it started it sounded kinda like a Harley for about a minute then the other cylinders chimed in one at a time until it smoothed out. Still wouldn't idle right because of the cam change. Had to kill it since the radiator wasn't in yet. The next time I turned the key though it lit up like it had been driven daily. Life is good! Congratulations!

Joe
 
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