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Discussion Starter #1
So about a year ago I pulled the 305 from my 1986 Elky, and replaced it with a '68 327 that I rebuilt. The 305 was a 1 piece RMS, and the 327 obviously has a 2 piece RMS. I had to get a new Flexplate made for an 83 or 84 elky 305 to accomodate a 2-piece to my 2004-R. I have since gone through 2 starters, and now need a new one. The guys at NAPA had been telling me that any SBC starter made for 85-back auto tranny would work, however I just spoke with the good people over at NAPA and now I am told that there are different lengths that the Bendix shoots out to engage the flexplate teeth. My question is: What Starter do I need for my 68 327 at 10.5:1 compression? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
 

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Here's what I do at the parts store. My 396 came out of a 69 1/2 ton PU so that's what I tell the pimple face kid at the counter. No offence to pimple faced kids.:poke:
Try telling them you have a 68 327 just remember you might still have to "shim" the starter.
You might also think about an aftermarket High Torque starter. Sure they cost a little more but they sure spin an engine over and with high compression it's something to think about.
 

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Try a Skip White high torque starter. Very reasonable prices. You'll love it.

Tim
 

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Id go with an aftermarket mini starter like I have in mine, 11 to 1 compression BBC. Never had an issue. Or the starter in newer chevy pick ups had factory mini starters
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've pulled it from the engine. Luckily the flexplate is fine. However what is interesting is that just like the last two starters, the starter housing has cracked all the way through. I took pictures but I don't know how to get them into my post. Is really that common of a problem or is this just my bad luck?

BTW: I will look into getting a high torque mini-starter. Will go on without having to remove my right Header(Long Tube)?
 

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On my BBC I can drop the starter without a problem and I have long tube Headman Headers.
BTW I run a stock GM starter. I won't lie to ya I do use a few choice words getting it clear of the headers but it can be done.
FWIW my next starter will be a high tq. mini starter. Just have to convince myself to spend the $$$
 

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If your housing is cracked its either a little loose or the shouldered starter bolts are not being used.

That allows the starter to 'walk' a little bit and will crack the housing.

Or its not shimmed correctly.

Or a combination of any of the above.:dontknow:
 
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Go with a high torque mini starter from Skip White. The cost under $80 shipped.
 

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make sure your starter isnt too close to the flywheel,when the bendix is fully extended there should be about 1/16 in. between the tooth on the bendix and the deepest pitch in the ring gear.a 10.5 small block wont crack a starter nose on its own unless something else is wrong somewhere.replace the bolts with new starter bolts,install the end brace. as mentioned above try the new mini starters i have had very good luck with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for all of the replies guys. I didn't think about it not having enough shims since it was a brand new starter and it engagedfine and didn't grind. I figured it was just a plug and play sort of thing. I guess I know better now. I'd really like to get a hi-torque mini starter, but my current bad starter has a warranty on it so it seems silly not to take advantage of that. But the mini starter is VERY tempting...
 

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see if who ever you have the starter will let you upgrade to the mini starter,i did this with autozone on all of my 3510 starters and just paid the differance
 
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