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Deputy Director Supporting Member
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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so I'm out of options. Someone give me some wisdom and genius!

I put my intake back on last night after re-sealing the back rail. I used copious amounts of silicone, and on the front and sides have never had a leaking problem. I took it out for a test drive, and the puddles of oil are back on top of the block where the stampings are on the back. I can only assume it's the back of the intake leaking again, because the oil is running down the back of the block seemingly from the center of the block and downward. Not from the distributor gasket. Not from the oil pressure unit. As before, there is oil on the TOP of the valve cover rails, but only on the back corners. If oil was on the top of the inward valve cover rail, and the valve cover seal was what caused it, wouldn't there be oil leaking from underneath it onto the intake gasket area? I'm getting hacked off about this leak. All I wanted to do was put a dual plane intake on!!! I have put on 4 or 5 intakes before and never had this problem. I bought an Edelbrock thinking the casting/fitment would be near perfect. Give me more ideas to stop the oil please!:let_it_all_out:
 

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Deputy Director, Region 25 Site Supporter
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G'day Adam,hope i can help you.The front section does not leak? Are you able to get a mirror in behind the rear section and take a look to see exactly where it is leaking?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey, Moose,
What I have done is gone for a test drive, popped the hood, seen a bunch of oil there, and while the hood was open tried revving the engine to get oil to come out from somewhere. I wasn't able to see any of it moving around. I could not see any fresh oil around the oil pressure sending unit, but quite a bit around the edge of the block where it runs by the sending unit and over to the head.
 

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ZERO MPG
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I used this twice with no leaks make sure you get a good glob on the corners. Using a torque wrench?:dontknow:

 

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How about cleaning ALL the oil up using a detergent, and letting it dry. Then, instead of a test drive, just start the engine and vary the rpm. Using a BRIGHT light, watch to see where the oil is coming from. It won't, POOF, magically appear all at once.:beer:
 

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The lifter valley under the intake should Not normally have enough positive pressure to "Push" oil out...
If oil is pushing out the gasket or sealer and flowing out from this area it is because the crank case is building a large positive pressure for some reason. PCV or crank case ventilation is not adiquite...

This is usually a symptom of compression from one or more cylinders leaking by the rings and pressurizing the crankcase. Not a bad gasket. Using the "Right" super sealer is not the answer...You are chasing the symptom, look for the cause!

Look at a dragster and see the massive venting system...Why? Well let's say that your grocery getter has a 600 CFM carb, and you have a red line of 6000 rpm. You would expect 300 CFM at 3000 RPM tooling about town...Now you have a 6% leak-down past the rings...That's 18 cubic feet per minute of compression that you need to vent...Back to the dragster, it needs to vent 100's of CFM...It will blow the oil pan right off the motor if not properly vented! Ask me how I know:twisted:

If you are chronically leaking from a non pressurized area, then it is a sign of an internal issue....Broken ring, wrong PCV, Rings did not seat properly. Look at the lifter valley and tell me how oil is climbing up 6" of cast iron and pushing out a gasket without massive pressure and volume behind it...I would say something is wrong inside when the intake leaks....

But check everything easy first....Like the sending unit....
 

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do you have a pcv valve in either rocker cover? you need to have one run to either rocker cover, and its a good idea to have a breather on the other one, it ventilates the crank case so oil cant seep out anywhere like its doing to you. just having a breather on each cover isn't enough. ive seen reletaviley low mile motors leak oil everywhere till you properly ventilate the case.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes, I have a PCV on the passenger side, and a breather on the driver's side. I have noticed the driver's side breather is smoking, like it's full of oil. I was chasing the intake leak because I just changed the intake and figured it was not sealing along the back rail. PCV is functional, so perhaps the breather being full of oil was not allowing the crankcase to suck in fresh air. I did use a torque wrench, and tightened all bolts to Edelbrock specs and in the appropriate order. I used two thick beads of silicone along the back rail. Have tried just revving the engine up, but the oil only seems to come out under a heavy load (4 barrels open going up a hill). This would indicate to me also a crankcase pressure issue. Motor only has about 2k miles on it......would hate for it to be a ring issue. Thanks for all the tips!!:smileyb:
 

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Yes, I have a PCV on the passenger side, and a breather on the driver's side. I have noticed the driver's side breather is smoking, like it's full of oil. I was chasing the intake leak because I just changed the intake and figured it was not sealing along the back rail. PCV is functional, so perhaps the breather being full of oil was not allowing the crankcase to suck in fresh air. I did use a torque wrench, and tightened all bolts to Edelbrock specs and in the appropriate order. I used two thick beads of silicone along the back rail. Have tried just revving the engine up, but the oil only seems to come out under a heavy load (4 barrels open going up a hill). This would indicate to me also a crankcase pressure issue. Motor only has about 2k miles on it......would hate for it to be a ring issue. Thanks for all the tips!!:smileyb:
If this is the case sounds like you do have a crankcase pressure problem,clean that breather out and see how it goes.
 

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Shake the PVC. Do you hear a rattle? If yes valve is good. Make sure you have vacuum on the valve. With valve out and motor running put your thumb over end of PVC. You should hear the click and feel the suction. If not you have a bad PVC or no vacuum.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah, PCV, got it!! Positive Crankcase Ventilation. PCV is good, as I mentioned earlier. Rattles and can hear the pcv activate when I put my finger on it. Engine is making plenty of vacuum....12-14" at idle. I will change out the breather if I can find a suitable replacement today at O'Reilly. I prefer the GREEN store over the ORANGE store. The guys at the orange store make it feel WAYYYY too much like Wal-Mart.
 

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...Green Store....Orange Store....Wal-Mart...
30 years ago back in the Card-File days before computers, and dirty concrete floors we sat on stools...drank coffee...talked to Real Countermen...They had Nothing from China...and knew every part in the store, and what it fit...Most were old mechanics that have seen it all before and had the scars to prove it...
Now, sadly it's a 20-Something that doesn't even own a car, and is just waiting to go home....Couldn't care less if you ever come back, much less if you fix your car....Progress?:dontknow:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Heard ya, John. There are many like that in the chain stores. The green store is head-quartered here in Springfield, so I guess I have made it a point to shop with them. I have gotten to know the employees behind the counter, some of which know things and some of which I can teach a few things. Then again, I am a 20-something myself, with limited knowledge. No doubt the aged mechanic would be a better person to understand a problem that someone walks in with.
 

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are you running the rubber end gaskets? if so, try losing them and just run a thick bead of rtv instead, most gasket sets don't come with them anymore because they are prone to leak and unnecessary. i just run a thick bead of rtv and seldem if ever have any problems with leaks........
(this is one of the few places on any engine where i use rtv, rtv is a gasket maker, NOT a sealer. generaly it will make for gasket slip instead of seal)

replacing the breather is always a good idea if it is showing oil, but if the pcv is working properly(and valve covers are baffled) there should be no oil dripping from there either. you might try running a line from where the breather is to the air cleaner(like the factory did) that should take care of any crankcase pressure. GL
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The oil in the breather was from my previous experience with un-baffled valve covers with holes right above the rocker arms. It just sucked up every bit of oil it could. New Edelbrock cheapy chrome breather is on. The open style breather (K&N 62-1170 or something) is what I had before and worked GREAT!! Once I switched to the open breather when my engine had about 500 miles on it, the rings immediately set and no more oil was coming through to the plugs. For now, the 7.99 breather will get the test.....stay tuned.
 

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If you want to watch the engine jack up the rear end and let the tires spin while giving it gas??? Maybe at a constant high rpm you can see the leak.:dontknow:


Wonder if Auto zone has this for a loner??

Harbor Frt. $79.00

Digital Inspection Camera
 

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Rattles and can hear the pcv activate when I put my finger on it.
Just a question on this. The PCV is actuated by vacuum from the carb. I don't think you should feel anything or hear an actuation by putting your finger on it.
 
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