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My V6 went out on me so I'm switching the V6 3.8 for a Chevy 350. Now heres the problem I don't know much about the engine. I do know that the motor mounts match, and I believe that the only other major thing is making sure the tranny matchs up, is there anybody who can tell if it will match up. I have the # off the engine if that will help. Also if theres anything else I need to know please your input will be greatly appreciated. Thank you for any information givin
 

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I'm no expert, but I think chevy was very good about making trans fit many applications. Do you know what trans you have? The 200r4 is probably factory, and would bolt right up.

Tim
 

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If you have the 3.8 229 V-6 then the tranny is a direct swap,, but if you have the 200 metric tranny it wont stand up to "often" gas pedal to the floor ops check,, but if the tranny does go out a 350 turbo will go right in,, Matty man
 

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Motor swap

Basically anything north of the timing cover to the radiator core support.
 

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My V6 went out on me so I'm switching the V6 3.8 for a Chevy 350. Now heres the problem I don't know much about the engine. I do know that the motor mounts match, and I believe that the only other major thing is making sure the tranny matchs up, is there anybody who can tell if it will match up. I have the # off the engine if that will help. Also if theres anything else I need to know please your input will be greatly appreciated. Thank you for any information givin
IF IT'S A DIRECT SWAP BETTER LOOK HERE AT MY BUILD IT'S A LITTLE MORE THAN THAT. MAYBE FOR A MECHANIC OR GEAR HEAD. I AGREE IT FIT'S.

Hkd up 87 305/350 let the build begin 5/30/12
 

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Off the top of my head, for a V6 to V8 Swap you will have to re-locate the motor mounts to different holes in the chassis, V8 fan shroud, a bigger radiator is a good item to change, as is the water pump if it is a used engine. Flex Plate will be OK, unless the engine is an'86 or newer, with the one piece rear main seal. That would require a new flex plate. Newer engines sometimes do not have the mechanical fuel pump, which might require an electric pump and regulator. I don't think your year had a computer, so that should not be an issue. Newer engines might require a different distributor and carb if they were computer controlled. Can't think of anything else major, except as indicated some transmissions won't stand up to much abuse- same for the rear end of you get too much HP and traction.
 
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The engine is complete for the most part minus some exhaust manifolds/headers. I don't know what the engine came out of, how many miles, year, if it's 4 bolt main. I do know it's a Chevy 350 though I have pics if that will help I don't know how to post them from my phone though, if anyone is willing I can email pics for additional information. Oh and also about the headers, how I'm going to find them is, I made templates of the holes, bolt holes & that outer ring thing that goes around the holes & bolt holes with poster board. I'm going to take the template to a junk yard and find my headers like that. Does anyone have any better ideas
 

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welcome Zach
put the pictures on photobucket or one of the other photo sharing sites
and put the link in this thread..

there is basicly 2 styles of exhaust manifolds
the 305 style that goes above the sparkplugs and some have the weard 7 bolt pattern,,
and the 350 style that goes below the sparkplugs with the normal 6 bolt patern..
i would look for the 350 style without the air pump tubes,,unless you need a air pump for emissions..

finding headers in a junkyard is hard,, unless you find some on a g-body..
sbc headers will fit almost all sbc's,, but they wont all fit the body/frame differences..:texas:
 

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For the most part a small block V8 exhaust manifold will fit any other small block,. the only difference is where it dumps for the pipe to hook to. in general you want to find a pair of maifolds where the driver dumps straight down towards the back of the block, and the passenger dumps at an angle at the back. if youre going to the junkyard, try and cut the pipe after the Y pipe and take it with the manifolds.

if you go headders. about any parts store will sell direct fit headders. you want them for 78-87 G-body, el camino, malibu, regal etc.

as far as your pics, it looks like youre all set.. it has everything minus exhaust to dump in and run. as stated above theres a few things youll need to upgrade, like radiator, trans down the road, different fan shroud (some were V8 shrouds with a clip on spacer for the v6) you may need to move the frame side motor mounts to a different location. the frame is drilled for all applications. you might want to find a V8 g body and see where it is on that car. the hardest part about that is getting to the nuts that hold it down on the inside of the frame.

judging from the pics it looks like an older, possibly 70s motor, two piece rear main seal, driver side dipstick etc.
 
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Go with Hedman 68600 headers from Summit Racing. Those are direct fit with NO mods to anything. They run around 170 shipped in black paint. You'd wanna get your headers coated so they can last longer and look good.
Here's a pic of my engine.

Then here's the 2 1/2 true duals I ran from the headers back.(nevermind that oil spot in this pic below. It was from when I did an oil change.)


 
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69/84 it won't let me pm anyone till 5 post so here 206 458 4682 I'm in burien wa also and I think I will go with those hedman headers, it's only 10$ more than the junk yard. How much them dual exhaust run you?
 
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69/84 it won't let me pm anyone till 5 post so here 206 458 4682 I'm in burien wa also and I think I will go with those hedman headers, it's only 10$ more than the junk yard. How much them dual exhaust run you?
If you have a column shift,use a rubber vacuum hose to slide over the linkage so it wont rattle against the headers. The dual exhaust cost 180 but I already had my own barely used Flowmaster 40's. Most shops charge upwards of 400 to run them but you can get it done cheaper at a tire shop or mom and pops muffler shop. Places like Midas,and bigger companies will charge more since its a chain of profit.
 

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good thread. i myself am gearing up for the swap as well.

my question is with the drive shaft. if swapping to a th350 from the 200r4...will it work with the long or short shaft th350 as a direct bolt in?
 

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also will the v-6 springs still work for a 350? i do not mind if it sits a little lower like an 1" or should the springs just be replaced?
 

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good thread. i myself am gearing up for the swap as well.

my question is with the drive shaft. if swapping to a th350 from the 200r4...will it work with the long or short shaft th350 as a direct bolt in?
Is the th2004r bad? it will bolt to the 350 and is a much better transmission....nothing there would then need modification...but to answer your question the th2004r and th350 short shaft are the same length so the drive shaft will work but the crossmember and mount are about 6 inches forward on the th350 and would need to at least move forward that amount so anything attached to it--wiring, emergency brake cable, etc-- would have to be adjusted. The 6 cylinder springs should be fine, the weight difference is negliable.....Dan
 
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