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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What wire connector do I need on the tach, coming from the tach filter. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I purchased my tach and filter seperately and have installed the tach. The filter wire has no wire end on it. Where does the tach filter connect to?
 

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:secret:
It's not that you are being ignored, I mean after three days I wouldn't want you to get the WRONG impression. Folks will be glad to assist, you just have to include basic info in your request, ie.~
What type Ign. system are you running. Provide more information, and someone will provide you answers.:dontknow:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you coyoteon2. It's a hei system and I have the proper connection for the dist., but the other end of the filter wire has no connector on it. I was thinking that it would connect to the tach. I think the tach came out of a mid 80's monte. Please advise me what other information you need .
 

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You are correct Sir, one end to Dist. the other to the Feed Wire on the Tach. No end, or Conector is needed. Just twist them together and Solider them. Being sure you use Heat Shrink or other type of
protection, ie. Elec. Tape. You'll then be good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you. Where is this wire feed you wrote about? The only wire I found went to the clock.
 

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Depemding om the Tach, The Tach will have wires coming from it or Terminals. If it's a Tach for a V-8 only it will have 3, there again depending on the Tach. One for the Tach light +, a Ground -, and a "FEED". Ground the Ground, Light + to Dash Lights, and Feed to the Dist. If the Tach is for Multi Cylinder Motors, ie. 4 / 6/ /8, you will have to refer to the maker , or the instructions of the Tach. If you don't have that info, do a Google search for the Company that makes the Tach and ask them for instructions. They should be happy to E-Mail the info.
HTH.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you. This is a GM factory tach, does the printed circut board connect to these terminals? What kind of connector fits the terminals on the tach?
 

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There should Not be a PLUG for the Tach, the Ribbon on the back of the Cluster makes the connections via nuts, but I beleave you can do it without it. Been awhile, years. since I did mine and don't remember for sure. {Tough getting old ya know} If your gauge setup Orig. had a clock, the Tach will fit in its place, BUT ~ the Ribbon will not work. You will have to bypass that on your old housing and wire direct. Or your other option would be the cluster that is wired for the Tach, and not a clock. Wireing it directly is not a tuff task, it will just take a little time & paitiance. Just be sure that the power strip on your ribbon does not make contact to a ground when you install the Tach in the cluster. Trace it back to clear the Tack and cut it with a Razor, JUST THE ONE POWER STRIP, being carefull not to cut any of the other ones. Make two cuts Aprox. an 1/8 inch apart to be sure there is a gap in that copper strip. Also added you may as well remove the fuse for the clock, provided the fuse is ONLY FOR THE CLOCK. Good luck, you'll do fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks, I'll check with our dealer and get the parts. Thanks again!
 

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This is a Mid 80's Cluster with a Tach.


If it looks like that, then the Back would look like this for the one
with the Tack. Take NOTE on the way the Ribbon would look like
for the Tack. The one for the Clock is Different.





 

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There should Not be a PLUG for the Tach, the Ribbon on the back of the Cluster makes the connections via nuts, but I beleave you can do it without it. Been awhile, years. since I did mine and don't remember for sure. {Tough getting old ya know} If your gauge setup Orig. had a clock, the Tach will fit in its place, BUT ~ the Ribbon will not work. You will have to bypass that on your old housing and wire direct. Or your other option would be the cluster that is wired for the Tach, and not a clock. Wireing it directly is not a tuff task, it will just take a little time & paitiance. Just be sure that the power strip on your ribbon does not make contact to a ground when you install the Tach in the cluster. Trace it back to clear the Tack and cut it with a Razor, JUST THE ONE POWER STRIP, being carefull not to cut any of the other ones. Make two cuts Aprox. an 1/8 inch apart to be sure there is a gap in that copper strip. Also added you may as well remove the fuse for the clock, provided the fuse is ONLY FOR THE CLOCK. Good luck, you'll do fine.
SORRY< MY MISTAKE, Read this again NO PLUG ON THAT ONE!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The one in the picture is not the same as mine. Mine has the clock in the middle, wth the tach on the outside. Pictures of the back would be helpful. If you don't have any that will be fine I'll figure it out. Thanks
 

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Coyote,

You've been doing a lot of work on this post, so I thought I'd chime in to give you a hand.

Hangsen, from what I've read, you cluster should look like this in front:



You do not necessarily have to cut your circuit board ribbon. I have a gauge cluster from an 82 Monte LS that had a full clock (no tach) in the right position. The ribbon on the back is IDENTICAL to the ribbon shown both here and by Coyote. The mounting plastic for the clock is the same as for the tach only and tach/clock combo. The connector lugs for the tach are simply missing. Here is what I have for my tach/clock (circuit numbers are based on the wiring diagram I have in my Hayes manual):



Clock Connection
Since you already had a clock, my guess is that the BATT terminal is live. You can test that with a multitester or test light and the dash harness' plug at the appropriate terminals (#150 & #40). Even with the key off you should see 12V. If so, you're good to power your clock, if not run a jumper wire from the BATT screw post terminal on the gauge pod to the BATT terminal on your firewall fuseblock (be sure to have an inline fuse, just in case. You may also want to add a quick disconnect for easy removal of pod later.)

Tach Connection
To connect the Tach, you will need to make sure it is getting power and ground, so connect the screw lugs to the PCB ribbon. No rewiring is necessary as those circuits are shared by all of the gauges (they all need 12V power in addition to their inputs to function.)

The only thing extra your Tach needs is its connection to the COIL via the tach filter in the engine bay. You could add a lead to the dash plug (if you have the right style connectors that slip in and place it to correspond to circuit #121 shown above, which should be empty for you at the plug), or a simpler way (and others, please chime in here) is to crimp or solder on a loop connector end and screw it down to the COIL terminal lug. Run this wire through the firewall and connect to the tach filter. Coyote has some good comments about making good connections and protecting them with heat shrink or tape. Again, you may want a way to quick disconnect this lead at the dash pod.

Clock, Tach & Tach/Clock mount details:



If anyone else has anything to add, please chime in. The more the merrier!
 

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Thanks Mike! Apreciated !!:You_Rock:
 

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My pleasure, Larry. You seemed to be all alone on that one. I just happened to have everything on my bench and the research done about the leads. This way it will be up for the next person to read. Cheers, Mate!

:beer:
 

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My pleasure, Larry. You seemed to be all alone on that one. I just happened to have everything on my bench and the research done about the leads. This way it will be up for the next person to read. Cheers, Mate!

:beer:
 

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When I convert from idiot lights to gauges and a tic/toc/tach do I have to change out the oil pressure and the water temp. sending units? Are the sending units different for idiot lights and gauges? I will change out the pc board from idiot lights to the tach / gauges. I have an 85 EC. Do I need tach filter wire for this install since I will have the correct gauge pc board? I want to make sure I have everything that I need before I tear into this.
 

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The oil pressure and temp sensors are different than the oil and temp senders. So yes you will need to change them. The new oil pressure sensor will be screwed in to a location just above the oil filter where there now is a plug. There is a tan wire connected to the sender below the distributer, I cut this off and pulled it thru the split plastic harness and crimped on a female spade connector to fit the new sensor.

You may need a couple of brass pipe fittings to install the sensor, a short male thread nipple and a 45º female thread elbow. At least I believe that's what I used. Don't remember if they are 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch. Use the plug size. I bought my sensors from NAPA.

The new water temp sensor just replaces the temp sender that is located below the left side exhaust manifold between spark plugs 1 and 3.

The tach will work without the filter but you may get radio noise.

Doug
 
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