I think you need to pull the distributor . Get cylinder #1 at TDC and reinstall the distributor with the rotor pointing at the #1 cylinder. Don't tighten the distributor all the way. Leave it loose enough to turn but tight enough to stay in place. Try starting it and if it fires, adjust the timing.

 

Are you sure the TDC was on the compression stroke? Suggest you pull no.1 spark plug and feel with you thumb when the compression tries to blow it off when rotating the engine. Rotate the damper to TDC. After that is completed lift the distributor and make sure the rotor is pointed at no.1 position. The rotor usually turns a tooth off when stabbing the distributor back in, so move the rotor usually to the left as I recall one tooth in order for the rotor to rotate to the proper place when replacing the distributor.

Also check the spark plug wires, could be that they are not in the right firing order. Most intake manifolds have the firing order marked on them and the cylinder position marked. Not an issue with cylinder marks on a four banger.

EDIT: Bobby78 replied while I was typing.

Doug

 

are you sure the tdc was on the compression stroke? Suggest you pull no.1 spark plug and feel with you thumb when the compression tries to blow it off when rotating the engine. Rotate the damper to tdc. After that is completed lift the distributor and make sure the rotor is pointed at no.1 position. The rotor usually turns a tooth off when stabbing the distributor back in, so move the rotor usually to the left as i recall one tooth in order for the rotor to rotate to the proper place when replacing the distributor.

Also check the spark plug wires, could be that they are not in the right firing order. Most intake manifolds have the firing order marked on them and the cylinder position marked. Not an issue with cylinder marks on a four banger.

Edit: Bobby78 replied while i was typing.

Doug

there is a proper and correct procedure.
do as doug has described, as well as checking the firing order.

↑↑↑ Re-read ↑↑↑

 

I am pretty sure that it is on TDC like i said I had the timing cover off and allinged the marks on the gears, the number one piston was all the way up.Am I mistaken or shouldn't that TDC on a compression stroke isn't that how you you find time with the harmonic ballancer off.Also will it make a difference how the distributor is placed in the motor or can you just retard the cap to where you need it.

 

Also will it make a difference how the distributor is placed in the motor or.................... can you just retard the cap to where you need it.

Answer > YES Answer > NO
There is a PROPER and CORRECT procedure.
Do as Doug has described, as well as checking the firing order.

 

Retard the cap? Not sure I'm following you?

 

Do the procedure I described to find the compression stroke of no.1 cylinder. You can still be 360º off when the timing mark is at TDC and the no.1 piston at the top. Remove the distributor and replace it with the rotor pointing at no. 1

Doug

 

Even the mostly useless Haynes manuals will show the proper position of number one cylinder on the distributor when the engine is at TDC in firing position. Make sure it's in the original layout, to keep from getting confused. If the plug wires have been swapped around to compensate for distributor position, get them back where they were intended to be, and it will be easier to get the timing where it comes out right.

 

Remember, The piston comes up to TDC twice during the ottoman cycle. Once during compression and once at exhaust. If you set your timing on the exhaust cycle, Ohh baby will you have issues. Either put your finger in the spark plug hole to feel for the compression cycle or pop a valve over and watch the valves to see when they are closed. If you want more precision, use a dial indicator to determine when the valves are actually closed. Then drop in the distributor and just slightly tighten the clamp. If everything else is working, the engine should start hook up a timing light and set to spec. Hope this helps...

 

Hey guys tahanks for all the help so far.I have the distributor in place correctly I had a friend of mine take a look and it it now in the right spot.But my original problem still remains it will not fire properly and now I can not even get it to stay running it is right there it will run then die or just barely stay running for 3-4 seconds I have tried to retard and advane the distributor to get it better but still nothing.I never removed the distributor from motor just put the cap back where it was ,it was already close.Also it is not like a v8 distributor it will go in any direction I want the cap can be spunn around 360 degrees so removing the distributor from the block is not nessesary.I have new wires plugs,air/fuel filters,I have checked the rotor and the cap is also new.I inspecter the egr vaulve and all my wired connections I dont know where to go from here it has a TBI and is a 2.5 4 cly I cant really check for vacume leaks because motor will not stay running also I just put new fuel in it 89 octane.I could use as many troubleshooting ideas that you guys can give me Thanks

 

How much fuel pressure does it have? If you got the timing right (sounds like you got it close enough) for now and you have compression (which you obviously do) that only leaves fuel delivery.

 

Well I'm not sure how to check for fuel pressure but I changed the fuel filter 2 days ago and the fuel pump filled it right back up and started it so I know that the pump works but not sure about pressure.Just to refresh everyone on the back round on the truck I bought it for 300 buck drove it home it lacked power and barely wanted to stay running that was the original issue I tore it down to the timing gears only because the previous owner was told that it had jumped time and slipped a timing gear which was not the case I put it all back together and now it will not stay running at all it is close but there is another problem what about vacuum leaks could that be an issue I can not rally listen for them without motor running but even with a leak I would think that it would at least run maybe like crap but how do i check fuel pressure.

 

I don't believe there is a tee in the fuel pressure line on an S10. Mine has the 2.8 with the TBI, and no place to tap for a pressure gauge. Somewhere in the wiring up front, there is a loose connector for hot wiring the fuel pump. It was used at the factory for priming the pump on the assembly line. It will run the pump directly if you put 12 volts on it from the battery. It's a way to listen to the pump (in the tank) for how it sounds. It should run at a steady RPM/pitch, and not hesitate or slow down etc.
Some years have the pump wired to terminal "G" on the test connector under the driver side instrument panel, instead of the loose connector.
For your information, the fuel pump relay is mounted on the fire wall, driver's side. Usually more than one relay there, and it's usually the one towards the center of the truck.

Hope this helps a bit
If you can make the pump run, remove the large fuel line from the TBI, and connect a hose to it. The pump should put out 1/2 pint or more in 15 seconds.

 

what year s10?
as said,,, check the fireing order???
you checked the cap/rotor,, if its dirty looking,,could be carbon tracking???
do you have a good spark from the coil???

a squirt bottle with some gas,,,down the throtlebody will tell you if its a fuel problem???:texas:

 

Hey guys it is a 91 s-10 and i shot a couple of squirts of starting fluid and still it did not want to fire it is right there it sounds like it is barely running but as soon as i let off the ignition it dies right out.The cap and rotor are brand new

 

One other thing guys when I had the timing cover off and aligned the timing marks on camshaft and crankshaft gears it was a tdc but on an exhaust stroke.I did not change anything just inspected the gears for wear but will that affect anything even though when it is on an compression stroke the rotor points to the number one plug or is that an issue.

 

Yes I read it the first time.I have done all of that I understood that concept fully before ever posting. My question was not how to find TDC on a compression stroke.It was that when I lined up the gears under the timing cover the piston was on an exhaust stroke.I have done more research and come to the conclusion that it doesn't matter witch TDC exhaust/compression that the crankshaft and camshaft timing gears line up on as long as they are in time.I hope that explains what I meant to say the first time better.I have the motor in time the distributor is ok everything is where it should be.I must have another issue,I will probably just fork out some money to a mechanic.Thanks anyway guys but I think this is a little out of the ordinary maybe an electrical issue or vacuum leak.

 

I would think it does matter. All timing specs are described as ....BTDC or ATDC. The TDC in both of these cases is on the compression stroke. Your plug needs to fire on the compression stroke not on the exhaust stroke. That could be why it feels like it will almost start.

 

Lets see if we can simplify this before it gets too far down the road. Basics - crankshaft turns twice for camshafts once. Cam timing mark lines up when the crank mark is at the top and the cam mark is at the bottom (thats once). turn the crank another revolution and the cam mark is at the top, twelve o'clock and the engine is in time either place. The only difference is whether it is on compression or exhaust stroke.
On assembly can be either way depending on who ground the cam, who marked the gears and etc. Chevy is usually on the exhaust stroke, Buick is on compression when the marks are 12 on crank and 6 on cam. This is why the people trying to help in this thread refer to either checking the cam lobes or pulling the number one plug and turning the engine to find TDC - compression stroke. HTH

 

Lets see if we can simplify this before it gets too far down the road. Basics - crankshaft turns twice for camshafts once. Cam timing mark lines up when the crank mark is at the top and the cam mark is at the bottom (thats once). turn the crank another revolution and the cam mark is at the top, twelve o'clock and the engine is in time either place. The only difference is whether it is on compression or exhaust stroke.
On assembly can be either way depending on who ground the cam, who marked the gears and etc. Chevy is usually on the exhaust stroke, Buick is on compression when the marks are 12 on crank and 6 on cam. This is why the people trying to help in this thread refer to either checking the cam lobes or pulling the number one plug and turning the engine to find TDC - compression stroke. HTH

In other words, it's possible your Distributor is 180 deg. from where it needs to be. Rotor pointing to say 5 o'clock, when it should point to 11 o'clock, etc.

 

Yes 464Elky understands what I am saying perfectly the engine was put in time on an exhaust stroke.Thats what was causing the confusion on my end guys thats is what had me confused.I now have the rotor facing the number one plug on a compression stroke leading me to believe that timing is not the issue after all.Thank you all for being patient with me I will post the solution to my problem as soon as it is fixed.Which may end up being a 350 conversion just to make it interesting LOL Thanks guys.