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I think when I shifted from 2nd passed drive into neutral and back into drive at high rpm I may have fried something inside the tranny . Shifts into park fine all other gears car just rolls like it’s in neutral … with ignition off I shift car threw the gears and it just rolls in every gear like it’s in nuetral
You may want to put it safely on jack stands and see if you move the shifter in the car it also move the shifter on the trans. From what you described it sounds like you will see it moving which most likely a convertor or pump issue (no pressure) since no gears work and it goes into park. Please let us know what you find.

BTW - I believe you can rent a pressure gauge from the part store to verify.
 

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Do yourself a favor first, and go to the part store and rent a pressure gauge. You can check for pressure but I do not think you find any. Once the trans is out the pump can be pulled out easy enough by removing the captive bolts and a pair of slide hammers. The convertor can be checked pretty easily if it only turns in one direction, if so, it should be ok. Trans shop should be able to verify. Hope that helps.


 

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I have had B&M 10" 3000 stall and 11" 2400 stall convertors in th350 and neither hit hard when I put the cars in gear like what you are describing. The stall convertor would flash up in RPM when I took off, kind of like the trans was slipping more so with the 10" but I could idle at a stop around ~1k and the car would not push or lug the motor. I believe the stock th350 convertor is 12" 1600 stall.
 

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Yes, a 1600 stock stall would not be ideal for your 383 (stock stall varies, where a non-stock engine can make it stall a little higher ~ 200-400 RPM). If your cam peaks for torque at 3200 you would want a 3200 stall. You can also base stall by its operating range and have it be 500 RPM higher than the power band of your engine. Example, 1500 - 6500 a 2000 stall may be ideal, but if your power band is narrower 2500-6500 a 3000 stall convertor would be ideal. Hope that helps.




 

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So i put it up on jack stands and ramps I pulled the drive shaft the shift cable the speedo cable and disconnected the battery. I wasn’t able to spin the tailend of the trans in park but I was able to turn the tailend in one direction but not the other direction in each gear R N D 2 1 .. when I say tailend I mean the part where the drive shaft goes in
Well at least you know you did not break the trans output shaft. Sorry you have to tear into your car.
 

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You want to be real careful with the flywheel since the 400 crank used to make a 383 is externally balanced - meaning that the harmonic balancer and flywheel are paired together. You can zero balance the harmonic balancer and flywheel and balance internally when building the 383/406 engine but this extra balancing is a more expensive route. If you do not have a flywheel turner, they are really handy and once the convertor bolts are removed from the flywheel the convertor can just slide away from the flywheel towards the trans. The starter should not have to be removed to drop the trans but you should remove the negative battery cable from the battery.

The cooler lines can be a pain, but you want to hold the fitting on the trans and use a flared wrench to break the line loose. You can alternatively use vise grips vs. a flared wrench but be careful not to mess up the fitting. By supporting the trans with the cross member removed, normally gives you a little more access to the cooler lines as well as the engine to trans bolts. Just want to be careful not to get carried away or else your dip stick tube and distributor cap will get damaged (may want to remove the distributor cap or at least set it off to the side). If you can remove the dip stick tube prior to dropping the trans makes it a lot easier and a trans shop may have a plug (or hardware store) you can use so you do not have a big mess with the dip stick tube removed while dropping the transmission. The trans shop may also give you a output shaft plastic plug which helps not be make a mess with the driveshaft removed. Its always good to remove the vacuum line and kick down cable from the engine early in the process so you do not forget. There a lot of helpful videos on YouTube on removing trans that may be helpful. Hope that helps.



 

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Is my torque converter suppose to spin freely on the trans shaft in both directions
Yes, I believe it should. Once you have the trans out of the car and take the convertor off the trans, you will see a gear inside the convertor that should only turn one way. Refer back to video on how a convertor works sent earlier. Hope that helps.
 

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Does anyone know the foot pounds on the torque converter and the trans bolts for install purposes
Can't say I ever used a torque wrench on the convertor to flywheel or trans to engine bolts, I just had tighten to what I believe is the correct tightness for that type of bolt and use blue Loctite on the convertor to flywheel or trans bolts. Hope that helps.

Torque specs for bolts
 

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Were you able to pull out the convertor and see if the sprag inside only goes one way? Were you going to take the trans somewhere to have them look it over or were going to take it back to the guy that just rebuilt it?
 

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If the convertor spins in only one direction that's good quick check. It would be good to have it checked out a long with the trans. Please let us know what your trans person says about why its not working (bad pump, etc..)
 

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"Does it spinning one direction mean it’s still good ??" yes, convertor sprag to only spin in one direction is a good thing. I have seen people break these drag racing.
 

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Took tranny in so I guess the dhead that installed my motor put a non lockup torque converter on a lockup th350 tranny . The trans guy said th350 after 1980 we’re junk but I’m not sure , I’m just taking his word… so he’s now building me a non lockup th350 .. he said he doesn’t even know how I drove the car at all torque converter was only on the spline a quarter of an inch chewed up teeth….
Sorry to hear this. The non-lockup would be the way to go with a stall convertor and 383 like what you have... The lockup 350 is easy to detect, it has an electrical plug on the side of the trans for the lock up convertor. Let us know how it goes.
 

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The torque convertor should be loose (slide back and forth) on the input shaft and then it should slide up to your flywheel. I have never shimmed my convertors.
 

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I put in a bolt/nut one at a time bringing the convertor up to the flex plate but wait to tighten all the bolt/nuts until all of them are installed. Some guys also put blue Loctite on the threads. Let us know how it goes.
 

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